Now we got the engine back in the car, we can start reassembling all the other bits that we've fabricated.
So I've put the radiator and the intercooler back on the front of the car and just done some work
just finalizing this support bracketry.
This-this here is to support the bonnet latch,
so it's all pretty stiff now, otherwise the bonnet won't shut properly.
So it's just a bit of folded aluminium with some dimple-dies in it
I've holed out all this bracket here, and we're going to dimple-die them as well,
just a little bit more air flow through to the radiator.
We've made a little bracket here to support that,
so it's all pretty stiff now.
Top brackets for the radiator itself we-I hadn't made them yet, because
we didn't actually know what sort of tilt we'd need on the radiator to allow the intercooler to fit,
so made up some spacers for that.
Spaced it out all fits well,
so now we can move on to making some intercooler pipes,
so we've got the turbo just sitting on there.
We've got to work out this side intercooler pipe, it's going to be two-and-a-half inch,
we just have to be a bit careful about the routing of that, because we've also got to make the dump pipe
fit as well, so it's pretty crowded over this side of the bay--
the three-inch side of the bay to the throttle body, no problem at all 'cause there's not much there.
We'll just sit the manifold on there after Wood drag us us put the injectors and stuff in it.
we just mock it on there for the moment, and then make up those that three-inch intercooler piping and
we'll just weld all that up and
get on to the dump pipe.
And I'm hoping to do it in three-and-a-half inch, but if it's too tight
we'll just go back to three, it won't really affect the power of it.
Al starts off by positioning and marking the compressor housing in the best location so the intercooler pipe clears everything.
Enough room for a dump there, Al?
It'll have to be.
Before the inlet manifold goes on, just fitting some injectors to the rails; these are just a Subaru injector,
originally from this motor then they went into my VVT-i motor,
and I'm upgrading so I no longer need them. The only thing you need to do is just shorten the spacer
on the rail a little bit for them to fit, but they are a direct fit straight-on, and
good enough for this application.
With the intercooler piping tacked together and in place, it's time to get stuck into the intake pipe
Using a four-inch alloy donor, Al is able to get the tight radius
he requires to get the intake up in the corner and as far away from hot air as possible.
We got all the intake and intercooler pipes done, did it all that of aluminium.
It's pretty time-consuming, just the welding side of things is pretty slow compared to welding stainless.
So, we're getting there. It's-the engine bay's starting to look really nice now. It's all, you know, nice and shiny.
Those colors go really well together.
We're just about to start making the dump pipe now, so
I'm just going to make sure everything's in the right place
and we're not going to cause ourselves problems or later on. So, with the oil filter housing
There's- there's- there's about four different ones that I know of for the UZ engines.
This is a Soarer
mid-sump type filter housing. The one that we've got on at the moment is a Celsior
front sump, which matches this sump.
I've pinched that off
Woody's motor just because it was there and that's how I roll.
This one faces forward, this one faces backwards; this one would have been good except for it
happens to land right on top of where we've got the oil drain tapped into the sump, so
we can't use that unless we move the oil drain,
which is probably more of a pain in the butt than using a different oil filter housing.
This has got a remote filter housing on it at the moment, that I'm going to unscrew that and just put a normal filter on it,
because we don't there's no need for us to run remote filter or a cooler or anything in this application.
To do- the only thing I need to do to make the filter fit,
we're just going to use a smaller filter than normal, and I'm just going to put some spacers underneath the sway bar and
just pull it down a little bit to get some clearance for the filter.
And that--
with that there, we should be able to fit a three-and-a-half inch dump pipe through--
it'll be tight, but it will fit.
After tacking a few three-and-a-half inch mandrel bends into place and checking that they clear everything, it's back to the welding bench
to TIG up all the joints.
A wideband sensor bung is welded into the dump pipe.
Al then cuts off the end,
places on the four bolt flange on the belt finisher, and places a two bolt flange on the other end, in a position where the
rest of the exhaust is easily bolted up underneath without hassle.
Next time on the Skid Factory: Al calls in a friend to help with the wiring, and the turbo gets some cooling and lubrication
lines made up.