- Hey, this is Davin with Hagerty,
and our redline rebuild updates.
We are in our new shop, as we've seen.
And now we have our 440 Chrysler motor completely tore down.
And it is really greasy, it is really grimy.
But we've got a solution for that.
And that's where Steve rolls in here in the red shirt.
He is with Gladiator Parts Washers.
And they make a glorious, glorious parts washer.
Now granted, this is slightly above
your everyday garage parts washer.
But we're trying to be better than that,
and show some things that are out there
for the big shops, and small shops as well,
that will really clean out this stuff a lot quicker,
and a lot cleaner than our traditional parts washer cabinet.
And of course put our efficiency to work,
relative to our man hours.
So that's where it comes in for me, since there's one.
So Steve, what do you think of these parts?
- They look just like a good candidate
for the Gladiator washer, Davin.
- Excellent. - Absolutely.
- Excellent, okay.
Well, we're gonna push this over there.
But let's show them what this thing looks like.
- Absolutely. - All right?
- Sure. - Cool.
I am not eight foot tall. I am also not four foot tall.
Although some people might think I am.
Average height, this bad boy's seven foot tall.
52 inch, 50 inch?
- 50 inch height.
- Nice.
All right.
- So this is the FRT 3650.
And what that means is basically we have
a 36 inch diameter table, and we've got 50 inches of room.
We also have an intermediate table that can be
easily removed for when you want to clean taller parts.
The way it's set up right now is he can take his pistons,
or any other smaller parts that will fit
in this table, in the basket and close the door,
and fire it up, and let it run through its course.
This machine has a 60 GPM pump,
capable of spraying at 70 PSI.
Typically we like to run the machine
at about 140 degrees Fahrenheit.
We have filtration.
So we have a bag filter here that we can constantly
filter the water, and extend the bath life.
So we don't have to change the water out quite as often.
- And that's gonna help so we don't plug up the nozzles
with all the sand, basically.
- Exactly, exactly.
A plugged up nozzle doesn't work too well.
- No, right?
I like touching buttons here.
Let's see, so we got our turn.
So we're not gonna be centrifugal force of cleaning.
It'll be a nice slow rotation.
Let the water jets to do their work.
And of course the soap,
which is a biodegradable soap, all that side of things.
And of course, is gonna take all that grease off the parts.
And now granted, I'm expecting to probably still be
some of that baked on grease that you have.
We're not going to negate needing to fire blast some stuff.
- Absolutely.
- But we will be heads and tails above going in.
And most importantly, what I'm looking at,
is there's always that final wash
that I'm doing right before I assemble stuff.
I see us taking the parts from Thirlby's.
They're all washed. Everything is clean.
But there's always some chips in there.
And I always have to go through
and scrub and blah, blah, blah.
So my thought process is I'm gonna take that block,
even after it's been cleaned a couple of different times,
and kind of do a final wash in here,
blow everything out, and then I can do my final assembly
as far as the engine stuff specifically is concerned.
- Absolutely.
- Now, I'm also looking forward to be able to use,
put in suspension components that have had years of grease
that just needs to be blasted off from that standpoint,
before I put it into the sandblast cabinet,
or send it out to be sandblasted.
- You probably clean those parts now
before you put them into the blaster.
- I do, yeah.
- Because the grease and the oil doesn't work well.
- It doesn't work well in a sand cabinet.
- Right, right.
- You get big globs of sand, instead of a smooth flow.
I think it's interesting how,
initially we were looking at it.
If you notice there's no door seal, in a traditional sense.
There's no rubber gasket to go bad.
Because you're using all like double layered,
call it encapsulated edges.
One of the cool, 'cause we initially we were looking
like, wow, when we open this up,
we're gonna get water draining all over the floor.
Well no, because you have this lip.
There's certainly some taper to it.
And there's a drain that runs right back
into this floor of the washer.
So very well thought out from that standpoint,
like from a maintenance standpoint, there's basically zero.
Is that pretty, pretty close?
- As long as you keep an eye on your water and your filter.
- Right. Water level, and a clean filter.
- Exactly.
- That makes sense.
All right, excellent. Excellent.
Well hey, let's, we'll fire it up. Let's get it to work.
- All right.
We'll open the door a little bit further,
so you can get them as close as possible.
- Here you want to.
Like that.
We'll just lay these up here.
- [Steve] Look at them muscles.
- [Davin] The worst is when they want you
to hold it halfway up, halfway down.
You know what? Yeah, let's throw them all in there.
What the heck? - I think so.
- We won't load it so tight that it's.
Put that in there.
Throw our lid on.
Yeah, let's do that.
- Okay, we have her set for four minutes.
- Okay.
- Let's see what happens.
- All right, I probably gotta pull this
table back out of the way here.
(machine humming)
- Shall we see what your first washer cycle looks like?
- Let's see what it looks like.
- All right.
- [Davin] That's, that's pretty damn good.
- What do you think? - Look at that.
All right so here's the main cap.
And main caps always have that, well we saw it going in.
It's covered in that oil that kind of gets,
it's not baked on, but it's definitely heavy.
And this is clean as a whistle.
Very nice. In four minutes.
You get a lot of oil that gets built on the rods,
usually the backs of your pistons.
These were fairly new.
Of course, you're still gonna have this carbon.
This is burnt on.
That's gonna be tougher to get off.
But these weren't, I'll say free, before.
They weren't dead stuck, but they were definitely sticky.
And they're not anymore. There is no drop of oil on these.
Wow.
Obviously, it's a water based solution.
It has a soap in it.
So for instance, I have a crank shaft in here with journals.
Let's say I was washing this for final assembly.
So it's all polished. It's perfect.
No flash rust on it at that point.
Now what I am seeing right now,
I don't have, with the exception of
where the water is sitting in here.
- Correct.
- It looks like, probably because of the heat involved,
it's basically dried itself like that.
- It is.
- So I'm not getting the flash rust.
The hotter the temperature, the quicker and the better
it not only washes, but dries.
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Okay, and then there's probably.
Is some amount of rust inhibiting agent relative
to the soap kind of in general?
- A lot of the soaps will have
a slight amount of RP in them.
You'll just have to keep an eye on that
when you're choosing your soap to go in a washer.
- Okay, excellent.
I know this is gonna sound cheesy.
And it's a little different than
what we do normally in our updates.
But I wanted to show everyone that there are some pieces
and parts, and units out there like this
that are just phenomenal and do a wonderful job.
If you can justify having one,
I think it's a fantastic investment.
And I mean from what I'm seeing, four minutes and that was.
I would have spent four minutes
trying to put them in and out of the hand-wash.
Now granted I could have gotten it done.
That's not the case.
But, I had time to do the phone calls with everybody else.
- Exactly.
You could do something else while you're washing your parts.
- Freed up, freed up some time.
So excellent.
I want to see that block in there now.
- Shall we put it in?
- Yeah. - All right.
- I'm anxious for that. - Let's do that.
- All right now, so again, the point of putting it
in the parts washer before we take it over to Thirlby's
to be thoroughly baked and all that,
is to get the top surface just clean,
and make it a little nicer to transport as far as that goes.
And then also I can kind of
uncover some of the obvious stuff.
So let's just say there's a big crack in the block.
If it's covered in grease, I can't see it.
If this was a part that I was gonna powder coat,
I clean all the grease off of it
before I put it in the sandblaster.
So that's what I'm after here.
On the painted surface that you see here,
back here on the orange,
it's not going to strip off 100% of this paint.
We're going to get off what's loose.
And that's really about it.
Obviously we're going to get water up into
the water jackets, so it's gonna flush some of that out.
And keeping that in mind, when I'm going through
and doing a final assembly function,
my intention is to be able to put this into the parts washer
and do that final wash, and rinse if you will,
without having to run all the brushes through there.
So I'll probably have to do some of it,
just to keep it loose, but then also all that spraying
will loosen everything up, specifically in your
water jackets and flush all that rust and nasty chunks out.
Yeah. That was perfect.
Standpoint. It's not a lot of fun, but you can do it.
Now that I'm trained.
- [Employee] Trained monkey?
- Trained monkey.
On. You ready?
Here we go.
(machine humming)
Oh geez. Nice.
That looks good.
All right so this rust was there.
This is not flash rust, cause it's pretty deep.
That'll come out with the cutting of the cylinders.
(upbeat music)
Okay well, Steve and the crew from Gladiator
are on their way back home, and well
I got some parts cleaning to do so I've loaded her back up.
This will be my last cycle here for today.
And that'll be it.
Now, that'll be it.
Thanks for watching today's video and update relative
to the red line rebuild on our 440 Chrysler,
and introduction to our brand new parts washer.
Hopefully you appreciated that.
And I look forward to using it a lot
on a lot of different projects.
Hey, like always, get out in the shop,
get your parts washed, right?
Get your projects done, get out and enjoy the world.
We'll see ya. Bye.
(upbeat music)