(upbeat music plays)
- What up everybody?
Welcome to Field Prep.
We are currently in process
of building a 2013 Chevy Corvette
into a competitive drift car
for the Formula Drift for the 2018 season.
Right now, we're kinda in the place where we're
getting parts and as soon as the parts show up,
we're putting them on the car.
So this week, we get some really cool stuff,
really exciting stuff.
Like this sequential shifter from HGK.
We got some alternator.
We play with putting some master cylinders.
We get our new drive shaft
and we put it in the torque tube
and kind of exploring
and learning a little bit more about the Corvette
since I don't know a whole lot about it.
We just dove into it.
So, you know, we run into a few snags,
we run into issues,
we figure it out as we go.
We do as much research as possible
and we hammer down.
So, I hope you guys enjoy this weeks episode.
Alright, so we just got our billet mechman alternator in,
from CBM Motorsports.
Lets open it up, check it out.
Yeah.
Seems really nice.
So, let me go ahead and do a test fit,
make sure everything works.
Everything's supposed to be bolt on and go.
That's one of the beautiful things about this build
is we're trying to make everything
as bolt on as possible.
So, if we have a parts failure
or we need to replace something,
order it, bolt it on.
Eliminates a lot of fabrication work
and track-side extra work
that we don't have time to do.
(bass music)
- Perfect.
- [Matt] We got our new supercharger
from Vortech Superchargers.
This is the old one from the S-14.
So we're gonna take the pulleys
and some of the stuff off that we transferred onto it
for the Corvette setup
and put it on our new supercharger
and get that set up.
Something that I didn't know
but of course, makes sense:
this is reverse rotation supercharger,
it rotates one way,
and that needs to rotate the other.
'Cause this is driven,
flipped backwards basically on the S-14
and on the corvette it's flipped forward.
So, this is actually shaped different
so it is gonna look a little bit different
when it's sitting up in there
but it's also good because it's gonna make
our inner-cooler piping fabrication that much easier.
(upbeat music)
We got the supercharger on.
We're figuring out the oil feed
and return stuff with it.
Fortunately A&A provides you with a line for it.
Ty and I are figuring,
"Oh we're gonna need this fitting
and this and this crazy adapter,"
and then I looked in the box that A&A gave us
and wouldn't you know it,
the perfect hose goes right to the blower
it is gonna be a little bit long,
we're gonna trim it down and go right into the pan.
Ty just marked the pan right here.
- [Ty] Alright so here's our new drive shaft shop
carbon-fiber drive shaft
and our C-6 manual torque tube.
I've never touched one of these before,
so I have no idea how it's gonna come apart.
So, it's gonna be a little bit of
an exploratory surgery here.
But um, hopefully it's not too big of a deal,
and I'll get this thing apart
and get it all together.
(funky music)
- So we need to modify the fast intake manifold.
There's a bunch of extra parts on there.
Like, all the evap stuff,
that clicks onto stock GM stuff.
We don't need any of that.
We're gonna need one or two parts
for a map sensor
and the bypass valve to let air out and stuff, but.
There's all the, it's just like for the stock brake booster
you could put a map sensor here,
this is another something, who knows,
other, things.
So we're gonna cut those off, drill 'em, tap 'em
so it's MPT, so we can put our fittings in,
so we can run like, this to the bypass valve.
We're gonna make our map sensor go here,
and the rest we're just gonna cap,
clean up, we don't need it.
So, we gotta blow this apart,
Cut it, cap it, clean it.
then we'll be good to go.
(funky music)
So this is what entails a fast LSXR 102,
this is the top half,
this is the bottom half.
This is what I was talking about earlier
with the different length runners.
So these are the longest ones.
This is more than likely what we're gonna be using,
but like I said, they have different length ones
depending on what your engine wants,
what kind of RPM you're gonna be turning.
So we're gonna remove this runner
so that we can get in here
drill, tap, clean all the crap out.
(upbeat music)
- So we got the hole tapped,
both of them,
put a little thread sealant on here.
Put that in.
16th MPT, put it in, we're good.
Just got that tapped out
so we can put our adapter fitting
for our bypass valve.
Gotta pull off the throttle body
so we can hack off this one over here,
plug that and we're good to go.
(upbeat music)
- Alright so, it's pretty simple.
This is our overflow tank for our drysum
if we have any like, oil slosh
or we overfill the tank.
It'll fill up into this reservoir
and then, we can easily drain it trackside,
or in the trailer, wherever we need to.
- Put 'em out the aramotive fuel pressure regulator.
Ty and I have been kind of
discussing where it's gonna go
and we think we found a good spot.
The fuel pump location is kinda up in the air.
We're not 100 percent on it,
we're waiting for Samantha and Zach,
but, I think this is where it's gonna go.
Gonna place this, right here.
I have my first mark,
the return is gonna snake down here
and run down the transmission tunnel.
This is gonna go to one of each side
of the fuel rails for the back.
So we're gonna feed the fuel rails from the front,
through the fuel rails,
to the regulator,
and then from the regulator it's gonna go to the back.
So, I think this is kinda the best place for it
as the whole engine bay's getting pretty full.
(funky music)
- Alright, just gonna get this squared,
mark my second hole, drill it,
and we will be good to go.
(upbeat music)
Got my 2 revnuts mounted.
Now, we're gonna thread this thing in
hopefully it lines up,
since it was kind of a pain to measure in there.
All right,
then the two return lines
will go up to the rails.
This will return back to our tank, perfect.
This is the plug that came in the ARE oil filter adapter
and I decided that I wanna run
my oil pressure sensor right here.
So, I could do much about this,
this is a hex-head,
so I bought this flat-head one,
but, it's dash 12 A and O ring,
and I was trying really hard to find one
with and eighth NPT adaptor.
I just couldn't find it.
So I'm just gonna go ahead and drill it out,
tap it to Eighth NPT
then, this will go in here
and our oil pressure sensor will sit right there,
and we'll be all good.
I wish I could've found a
dash 12 ANO ring with Eighth NPT
but I didn't so we'll make our own.
Not a big deal.
(bass music)
- Alright, then all we gotta do is tap it,
and we will be good to go. (blows)
(funky music)
- [Matt] Alright, now our hole is tapped,
got some threads in there, eighth NPT.
Boom!
This is gonna go right in there.
And then our temp sensor's gonna be right there.
Pressure sensor sorry.
I need to add some sort of protection here for
the oil tank.
What I'm gonna do is a piece, inch and a quarter
probably chrome-molly,
and I'm gonna put it right up in here,
just below the can,
so that if we get any impact from the side here,
it should be more protected, and if any of the
suspension or anything breaks and the wheel
tries to go back into the oil tank,
it'll be more protected.
I don't think this the end all,
like it's gonna be 100% safe, there's still a risk
having it out here, but since it's really
the only place for it to go, it needs this.
So I'm gonna go ahead and chop some of this more
of the car off, the fiberglass,
chip off all the crazy glue stuff,
and then bend up a piece of tube for it,
fit it in, weld it, and we should be good.
(funky music)
(pounding)
Took the oil can out 'cause I've got to grind
off the glue off the frame rail,
I didn't think it was gonna be this bad,
I was hoping it was gonna chip off,
but since I'm landing my tube right around here,
I gotta clear the area.
Here we go.
(funky music)
- [Matt] There she is!
I really hope it clears the tire.
So the next thing that we are concerned about
is getting our water line fittings out of our
water pump and into the back of the car,
but still clearing the supercharger.
AS you can see here, there's not a whole lot of room,
and this fitting goes up in here,
but it hits the supercharger,
so we need to figure out what we're gonna do to this
water line fitting to be able to try to get it
right through here.
So this is what we came up with:
we're using the stock little 45 guy there,
we're gonna cut it, weld on dash 20,
then this will actually work.
Boom.
(funky bass music)
- [Matt] As you can see here, I got it all cut,
I got that surface down there ready,
but it's still a little bit too long,
and we're making contact here against the side of the frame.
So, what I'd like to do is try to find a way
to get a pinch out of this thing,
and still have enough room to weld it.
Cut it with the angle grinder,
got this thing chucked up in one of the fittings,
the rotation rotates this way,
so I've got to be sure I'm cutting this direction so
it tightens and doesn't loosen up.
(bass music)
- I got the shifter and the lower plate.
This lower plate is what the cable goes through
that goes to the back of the car,
and this is what actuates it.
I'm gonna go ahead and bolt this in and see how it fits
and see if we have to do any modification, but
it should all go right in.
(upbeat music)
- [Ty] Alright, so I've got both pieces cut now,
cleaned up on the ends,
they meet together pretty nicely,
it's about ready to weld.
I went ahead and test fit it,
it's still pretty close, but this is about the max
I can take out of both ends and still have some
room for weld and not interfere with threads here.
I'm gonna go ahead and tack it together,
and do a final fit in it, make sure everything's good,
it's all gonna clear,
then go ahead and finish welding it.
(rock music)
Alright, let's see how it fits.
Mmm-hm
- Now that water line's going in the right direction.
- [Matt] What I'm doing right now is marking the firewall,
figuring out our dash 20 fittings and how they're
all gonna go through it.
Since Ty has been working on getting the water
out of the water pump, now we gotta place the
bulkheads on the firewall, and see where they're gonna go.
So I have it marked out in here,
this is where the bulkhead is gonna go in,
and we're gonna have one of these dash 20 Earl's
guys coming out at a 45,
and running down along the side of the car.
So, I've got my first mark marked up,
gonna drill it, hole size, my second one next to it,
make sure they're as close together but still have room.
(jazzy music)
- So I got the bulkheads placed on the plate,
and what I'm going to be doing is welding
on the bulkhead nuts on the back of the plate,
so that if they ever do come loose,
I don't have to pull the whole plate off of the car.
So that's them sitting there,
that's water out of the motor to the radiator,
water from the radiator back to the motor,
and that's for the steam ports.
So what I'm gonna do is actually weld
these bulkhead nuts here,
so that if the fittings ever do come loose,
I just tighten them up here, put the fittings back on,
and we're good to go.
(upbeat music)
There we go!
Now they can't move, the fittings can come on and off.
(funky music)
Real happy about that,
it's all laid out, works from the water pump
to the firewall, on the other side of the
water pump to the firewall, this is where the steam ports
are gonna go, then all of that is gonna go to the
back of the car.
That's where we're gonna have our swirl pot,
our expansion tank, the radiator, all that stuff
is going to the back.
This is what's gonna transfer it through the firewall.
Nice little bulkhead that we made.
- [Matt] I need to place this vortec bypass valve
on the intercooler,
it's gonna go right about here,
here's the phalange for it.
This is where it's gonna go on the intercooler,
so I need to grind the phalange in a little bit
so that it'll fit, drill the hole,
weld it up, throw the intercooler back in there.
I rounded off this bypass valve phalange
so that it sits flat against the intercooler.
All the gaps are tight,
so now we have to drill this with a hole saw,
we're gonna put a vaccuum in here at the same time
so that it helps keep all the chips out
of the air cooler core,
and then once we get the hole drilled,
we place it on there, weld it,
and we'll start working on where this is gonna go
to the throttle body cause this needs some work,
we're gonna weld on our vibrant van-jam clamps
right here, and get that all ready for some
intercooler piping.
(funky music)
[Offscreen] We got the bypass valve phalange tacked on,
we're gonna go ahead and weld that up,
and then we'll start working on there.
(drums)
- [Matt] I wanted to show you guys a
little bit about this HD clamp
because a lot of people are like "how is that good?"
"How does the intercooler piping, how do you get
it to line up?"
"How does it seal?"
All that.
But these are a serious piece of engineering right here,
so it has this quick release pin,
that you pull the pin out, it's got a little
locking mechanism in it so it doesn't come out,
this two pieces come apart in a nice clamshell,
then you have the actual clamp and phalanges itself.
So this band holds together the two pieces.
So the band is obviously very important, the machining.
And these are what gets welded onto the intercooler
piping, to the intercooler, whatever.
So like for instance, this, I have my piece of
intercooler piping, you can weld it right up against here.
Obviously you wouldn't want the bead roll in it,
but you weld the clamp right to the intercooler piping,
you weld the other side of the clamp
to some other intercooler piping, to the intercooler,
to whatever you have,
put the two halves together,
slip the band on them,
get the locking mechanism,
put the locking mechanism on it,
around, down.
And the cool thing about these is that it has up to
12 degrees of movement on these pieces,
so if your intercooler piping is not exactly
aligned, you can make it aligned with that.
You guys can see right there the misalignment,
and it has so much play and movement,
it makes the putting on of
intercooler piping very, very easy.
Even if you crash or whatever,
a lot of times these type of clamps won't line
up if they're not perfect, but Vibrant has you covered
because they do move so much.
I love it.
I've been using these for three years now,
and I will definitely never go back to
traditional coupler and t-bolt clamp, that's for sure.
(funky music)
- [Matt] So we have the piece
of intercooler piping that we're gonna be using,
right now Ty and I are measuring
to figure out how much to start trimming off of this,
because what we want to do is try and utilize
off the shelf bend as much as possible.
This is a piece from CX Racing,
they have a ton of different bends, 45, 90s,
I don't know what it is, this is like a 75 I think.
So before we get our Vibrant clamp set,
and the angle set on that,
we wanna trim this piece down,
so that if we ever wreck intercooler piping,
have to make duplicates, whatever, it's just
a straight cut up at the throttle body,
straight cut down on the intercooler,
and the intercooler hopefully takes up all the angle
and any kid of work, but this piece seems like
it's gonna fit perfect.
This is the bypass valve, now that the phalange
and everything is welded on there.
This is the V-band clamp that holds it on there,
this is how it's gonna be,
starting to lay out nicely.
(funky music)
As more and more things show up,
we continue to push forward on the Corvette,
things are moving along,
I'm happy, we're figuring things out as they go,
but there's a whole bunch of unknowns.
I hope you guys enjoyed this week's episode,
make sure you check back in next Tuesday,
we're gonna be diving in even deeper to the Corvette,
busting our knuckles, getting dirty,
figuring out what goes where.
Make sure to like, comment, share and subscribe.
I'll see you guys next week.