Hi I'm Vance and welcome to Repair and Replace.
If your oven isn't heating but has a working display and stovetop,
then it could be one of several problems.
First it's best to try both the bake and broil settings.
If one of the elements isn't working then you should test and replace that element.
You can learn how to do that in the video linked below.
Now if both oven elements are not heating, but the cooktop still works
it means that you're still getting full power to the range.
It's most likely a problem with the thermal fuse, the temperature sensor or the control board.
In this episode first we'll learn how it all works,
and then we'll troubleshoot and test each component with a multimeter.
Let's get started.
Electric ovens are pretty simple at a base level.
When electricity passes through the heating element the resistance in the material generates heat.
After the temperature is set, the control board sends 120 volts
through both sides of the heating elements.
Once the oven is preheated, the control board monitors the temperature sensor.
It will cycle the elements on and off to maintain the cooking temperature.
Now if the temperature sensor fails it
will prevent both the bake and broil elements from heating.
When it fails you usually get an error code for whirlpool models.
This will likely be an F3E0 or an f3E1 code.
Frigidaire and General Electric models will show an F3 or an f4 code.
If you're unsure then check your oven manual.
Additionally a faulty control board might fail to send power to the elements.
Also some models will use a thermal fuse or a
high limit switch, which will cut power if the oven overheats.
Keep in mind there is some variation between models,
and not all ovens will have the same parts.
You can enter your model number on the AMRE supply website to see a parts breakdown.
This can be helpful to show you which parts are in your oven and where they are located.
To begin you might need a screwdriver a nut driver gloves and a multimeter.
Always be safe and disconnect the power at the breaker.
Since there might be some sharp edges it's best to wear cut resistant gloves.
Gently pull the range slightly away from the wall.
As soon as there's enough room go in behind and unplug it from the receptacle.
Make sure that there isn't too much tension on the cord
Now slide the range all the way out so you have plenty of room to work.
On the back of the oven is a cover panel.
Some models have a small panel near the top and a larger panel near the bottom.
Now remove the screws.
The panel will likely be sitting on several hooks, simply lift up to remove the panel.
The thermal fuse should be located near the bake or broil element terminals.
The fuse can be tested for continuity with a multimeter.
A continuity test will determine if there is a continuous path for electricity to flow through.
First disconnect the wires and isolate the fuse.
Set the multimeter to the ohms or resistance with tone setting.
Now place the probes on each terminal.
If the fuse is good, the multimeter should display between 0 and 1 ohm.
If the multimeter doesn't show a reading or doesn't beep,
then there is no continuity. and the fuse should be replaced.
Now unscrew and remove it.
Next replace the thermal fuse and tighten the screw.
Now reconnect the wires.
Locate the sensor on the back of the oven.
It's usually near the broil element off to either side.
Now disconnect the wires.
Next set the multimeter to the resistance setting and adjust the range if needed.
Oven sensors are heat sensitive resistors, also known as thermistors.
These sensors have a different resistance at different temperatures.
At room temperature you should get a resistance of around 1100 ohms.
If the reading is significantly off, and is under 1000 or over 1200 ohms,
then the sensor is faulty and should be replaced.
As well if there is no resistance and no continuity
then the sensor should also be replaced.
Some models will have sensors mounted from inside the oven.
Other models will be accessed from the back.
Simply remove the screw to replace the sensor.
Align the new sensor and tighten the screw.
Then reconnect the wires.
If you have eliminated all other problems, and the oven still won't heat,
then it could be a problem with the control board.
First do a visual inspection of the board.
If you see any charred or blackened spots then it's a good sign that there's a failed component
or short circuit in the board.
If you had a power surge recently and that could be the cause.
As well double check that all the wire connectors are secure,
as a loose connection can prevent power from going to where it's needed.
Overall these boards are pretty simple to replace but are non-returnable after installation.
So if you're not sure that the control board is faulty it's best to call a professional.
Align the back panel and replace the screws.
Now plug in the cord and push the range back into place.
Next reconnect the power.
Now you can test your oven.
For more troubleshooting videos on water heaters,
furnaces, and appliances, then subscribe to our channel.
And if you need help you can call or visit an AMRE location to talk with our knowledgeable staff.
Thanks for watching.