Hi everyone Angela here. in this video I'm going to show you some extra steps to make a perfect
reversible bucket hat. I've washed dried and pressed two cotton prints. They're folded in half
and I'm laying them both on top of each other with the folds matching perfectly. The top of the hat is
an oval shape. Place the centre of it lengthwise on the fold so that we'll have one in each print.
Place the pattern down for the crown or sides following the grainline and then the same for
the brim pattern. You can trace around and cut out with scissors or use a rotary blade as I am.
In the centres of the crown and brim, cut tiny notches through all the layers on each side.
On the top pieces, cut notches at the side
then for the top and bottom cut the folds on a tiny angle so that you have small triangles.
This way you can easily identify the front and back of the top of the hat.
You now have 10 fabric pieces in total. To give the hat some body, I'm using a medium weight non-woven
fusible interfacing, We only need to cut interfacing for one side of the hat. With
the wrong side of your fabric facing up, place the glue side of the interfacing on top and iron on.
Always trim away any excess interfacing that's sticking out from the fabric so that your seam
allowances stay accurate. Next place the crown and brim pieces right sides together matching
all of the edges and if you need to, pin or clip in place . I'm using a Brother NV50S sewing machine.
The link for this and the tools I use are in the description below. Make sure to use coupon code
NotchesNV50S for the special offer.
Select and turn on the automatic backtack. And then using a ⅜" seam allowance, stitch all the sides together backtacking at the start and finish.
Do this all in one go and then cut your threads to separate the pieces at the end.
Open up and separate all the seams to press flat.
Along the tops of the side pieces sew a staystitch ¼" from the edge all around.
After stitching fold the top edge in half and re-cut those centre notches on an angle into small
triangles so that they're easy to locate because the next step is to make small little cuts just
to the stitch line about every 3/4" or 2cm all along the top edge .
Repeat these cuts for the lining.
Match the crowns with the tops right sides together. Match the top and bottom triangle
notches and pin in place. Then match the side seams to the side notches on the top
and pin in place. Now match the edges of these pieces and pin through where the stitch line will
be which is ⅜ " seam allowance. You can also use clips as I've done for the lining.
Carefully stitch around. There's no need to backtack. Just overlap about an inch to finish.
You can see the cuts allow the seam to sit better. With this print, I want to mark the
back of the hat. Mark the top and bottom or you can cut a little triangle on the bottom.
Next we'll edgestitch along the top of the crown.
With the seams on the right start the edge stitching from the centre back. I'm matching
the left side of my presser foot with the seam and back tacking at the start and finish. Now, you
can edgestitch closer to the seam or even do a ¼ " topstitch as you're sewing. Feel with
your fingers to check that all the seam allowances stay to one side then repeat with the lining.
Put the brim pieces right sides together match the seams and the center notches and then pin or
clip all around the outer edge. Stitch all around with a ¼" seam allowance. No need to backtack. Just overlap about an inch to finish.
Turn right side out pulling on each side of the fabric and then roll the seam with your fingers so that it's right in the center and press all around.
Flatten it down and pin through both layers on an
angle every couple of inches to keep the layers from twisting when topstitching.
To find the centre back, just place the side seams together, fold in half and mark it with a clip.
Set your machine to a longer stitch length and make sure you've got plenty of bobbin thread.
Starting at the centre back, back tack and then edgestitch an ⅛" from the edge all around.
When you get close to the beginning again, trim your threads. Continue stitching to the
start but don't back tack. About 3" down and ½" in from the stitching,
mark with a pin. We're now going to angle the stitching to that mark so that the right side
of the presser foot runs along the stitching. So, instead of sewing lots of individual rows,
we stitch in a spiral. This will be a lot faster and save you thread and still give you the same
look. Continue stitching until you reach the inner edge to finish. Find the two centre notches on the
inner edge and cut small triangles again. Make small cuts every inch or so along this edge.
Flip the hat lining inside out. Attach the brim with the right sides of the
lining together. Place the brim inside the hat. Match the edges, the side seams, and the notches
and then clip all around stitch together with a ⅜" seam allowance.
Find the centre back of the brim which is where the edge stitching started.
Match the centre back notches and place the hat inside. With right sides together from
that center back notch, pin 1½ " to the left and to the right of it. This is where
we'll leave an opening. Clip all around and stitch starting from this pin around to the other pin
back tacking at the start and finish. Sew with the lining side facing you so that you can see the
line of stitching already there. Sew just a tiny bit to the left of the first line of stitching.
Turn the hat right side out and fold in the seam of the opening. Place the fold just over the seam
line and pin in place. To edge stitch the crown , line up the seam with the first marking on the
presser foot and while stitching pull both layers of the crown taut while holding on to the brim .
Begin your stitching at the opening back tacking at the start and finish.
With these few extra steps you get a really nice professional finish
especially if you're using a directional print. If you found this video helpful, make sure to
subscribe and have a look on my channel. Thanks again for watching. Take care and happy sewing!