Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. Today I'm going
to walk you through the process to swap out the front brake pads on our 2012 Honda TRX420,
also known as the Honda Rancher. Not that tough to do, let's step over and
look at the parts that we're going to need then we'll dive into this.
All right guys, it's one part number that you need to order, but you need to order two of
them because you need a side for the left and the side for the right. And you'll notice if you're
looking at those exploded parts diagrams, it's the same part number. Well I've got those lined up,
so all we need to do now is open up my toolbox and dive into this.
Well let's start by getting it lifted up.
That should do. Now I'm using an impact to remove these. That's why I went ahead and lifted it up.
Now if you don't have an impact, you're just using a regular, you know, ratchet,
we'll just leave it on the ground to get broken loose.
Let's see... these look like they're about halfway worn down,
and actually on these there's a wear indicator
where you can go down to basically the thickness of a credit card before you have to replace them.
I wouldn't recommend going that far, because as they get thinner and thinner their ability to
dissipate heat gets less and less and you can overheat the front end pretty easy. Because
honestly, it does more of the stopping power in my opinion than the rear. Let's start by getting this
little guard out of the way. It's just held in place with a couple of 10 millimeter head bolts.
Feels like this one had uh, some type of thread locker on it.
Bet it did. Yep, blue. Next we remove the caliper. Let's go ahead and take off these two caps
because they cover up the pins that we're going to need to remove to actually get the pads out.
And that's just a flat blade screwdriver.
Next let's reach in and at least break the pins loose, because that's going to be really hard to
do once you actually remove it. It's easier to do it with it still mounted to the the bracket.
Now we can remove the caliper from the bracket itself,
and that's just held in place by a couple of 12 millimeters.
Simple stuff guys.
Now before we remove the pads, let's go ahead and compress the cylinder back into the caliper.
Just a regular screwdriver, and just turn it because we're replacing the pads anyway,
so I'm not concerned about damaging them. Now you wouldn't want to do that with new
ones because you would probably end up gouging them. Now we can remove the two pins all the way,
and the pads are just going to drop out.
One,
two. Now with those removed,
clean out any debris that may be on top of that spring or around the seal. And you also want to
inspect the seal to make sure it's not leaking anywhere. Ours looks good, so we're good to go.
Now I do want to take the pins over to the the wire brush and just clean them up a little bit,
because I can't remember if it was the left or the right side the brakes were dragging a little bit,
and that tells me that there was probably a lot of dirt build up or mud and it was not letting
the pads move freely on it. So we get those cleaned back up before we put it back together.
So now we can just lay our new pads in.
They're identical, so it doesn't matter which one's inside or outside.
Now you may have to push in on them just a little bit,
because there's actually a spring down in the bottom. Yeah. At least get these started. and
then we will torque them once we uh, get the caliper mounted back to the bracket.
Now just use your finger to spread the pads apart,
and get our 12 millimeter bolts back in place that hold the caliper to the bracket.
And now it's time to get out our torque wrench. First we're going to do the mounting
bolts. They're 22 foot-pounds. And then we're going to go in and tighten up the actual pins,
and they are 16 foot-pounds. There it is. Next, let's get our little cover bolts back in place.
Now we're going to get this little shield back on. We're just going to
add a little bit of blue Loctite 'cause that's the way it came from the factory.
Actually when they ship these for whatever reason, Honda has you uh, install these when the
unit is assembled and it already has the blue loctite on the bolt itself.
All right, important that you do this, go ahead and
pump the front brakes back up. Otherwise, first time you pull they're not going to
activate yet. They actually have to be brought in. Last thing is just get the tire remounted,
and I have no problem taking the lug nuts off with an impact,
but it is important that you use a torque wrench to get them reinstalled
because there's no way an impact is going to put it at the right torque. Just ain't gonna happen.
And that torque value on this one happens to be 47 foot-pounds.
All right guys, that's gonna wrap up this video. Now the other side is the exact same procedure:
same torque values, same part number. So I just have to scoot over to the other side and get that
taken care of, and just remember use your torque wrench and don't forget to pump up those brakes,
otherwise they're not going to operate the first time you pull them. Well listen, if you need these
or any other parts for your machine, why don't you come see us at partzilla.com and we can get
you taken care of. If you have any questions or comments, leave them in the section below and I'll
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