hey guys welcome back to the channel so I've been following my channel recently we're on
that home stretch of the is 300 automatic to manual conversion so on today's video I'm gonna
go ahead and get the flywheel in get the clutch in do some additional maintenance parts on the
actual transmission once I get all that in I'm gonna try to lift it in and see if I can mount
the trans to the actual engine block and see if I can get this installed, so stay tuned [Music]
so here we have the two Transmissions side by side as you can see automatic transmission is
bigger and heavier ask me how I know I had to take this thing off that cart and put it on the
ground and nothing was heavy as hell this thing is about 10 or 15 pounds lighter and it makes
a huge difference so as you can see on the tail section here the manual is actually shorter hence
the longer drive shaft versus the automatic that's why the drive shafts are different at least the
middle part of the drive shaft the part from the center bearing back is the exact same on automatic
or manual but yeah we got both of them side by side this automatic transmission I'm probably
just going to give it away it's got 200 000 miles on it and it's going to be useless to me now so I
got over here all the parts I'm gonna be changing out today I went ahead and picked up a new little
ball thing for the arm and lever for the throw out bearing so I'm gonna go ahead and replace
the one that's on there that's kind of worn down this thing was a few bucks and I went ahead and
just ordered a new one I also bought a little bushing right here this is the lower bushing
on the actual shifter I'm going to replace that thing this thing is actually the part off of w58
the one for the is300 is listed as a different part number and it's actually like three times
more expensive it's like 30 bucks where this one is like less than ten dollars I think it's the
exact same bushing but I don't know so we'll go ahead and check that out when we try to pop this
on and see if it fits over here we got the pilot bearing for the flywheel or the crank I've got the
eight bolts for the flywheel that I'm going to be using if you guys haven't seen my previous Parts
video I kind of went over all these parts that I'm going to be using I'm actually using a w58 Supra
flywheel which is a single Mass so I'm going to use different bolts I didn't want to use the Dual
Mass just because the clutch I have is a sprung clutch so you need a single Mass standard flywheel
to run that and then over here I've got the throw out bearing that we're going to be sticking in
there and replacing FYI if you're going to order an OEM throw out bearing actually comes with that
clip already I didn't know that so I ordered this bearing and I ordered that clip separate also
it was only like two or three dollars I could save that knowing this thing already included
it go ahead and take this thing off it's a 19 millimeter spins off pretty easily once we put
it back in it torques back to 29 foot pounds less worn out but overall you probably didn't have to
replace it but since I saw there was a little bit of wear up here I went ahead and just replaced it
go ahead get your torque wrench it's all set already
we'll go ahead and put the throw out bearing onto the shift Fork
yeah so you want to go this direction snap it on
so I was looking at the original throwout bearing that came with my transmission it's a Koyo which
is an OEM brand made in Japan and I noticed a little bit difference right there as you can see
the center spinning ring here is actually raised up away from the body right here versus the NSK so
this is the OEM One I ordered from the dealer or from Japan and this thing is an NSK also made in
Japan and you can see the side that spinning part the part that touches the spines it's very thin
and shallow there the overall depth and height of both of them are the same as far as that goes and
then the stroke and everything looks to be the same because this inside part just Glides inside
the actual bell housing and this is the part that touches the spines and Spins with the flywheel
and the clutch disc so I'm hoping this will work with the ACT this is the OEM one that comes with
the IS300 the SC300 and a few other Japanese cars that use the same transmission this one I assume
came with the ACT clutch or it was an aftermarket replacement from the last owner so you want to
make sure that ring goes on the inside here and that hoop goes around that way that's the correct
way to do it according to the factory manual once you do that go ahead and just snap it into here
foreign
there so that's perfect and then we'll go ahead and fix the grommet so it fits in there nicely so
on the back side here you want to make sure that boot has the vent facing backwards and
everything's in place I'm gonna put the slave cylinder in once this thing's all put together
onto the car just because I don't want it pushing on this rod and then pushing the throwout bearing
out while I'm trying to install it alright so I've got the shifter here if you watch one of
my older videos when I was doing all this stuff on the transmission I replaced this
boot right here because it was all tore up I was I replaced this vent because it was missing the
cap and I did a few other minor things like take this thing apart just kind of clean everything
up before I put it all back together but I didn't get that ball right there the first
time so this time I'm gonna go ahead and get it as I mentioned earlier this part right here is a
w58 one it's like less than ten dollars and the part number is right there on the label
right here but the one for the is-300 is listed as a different one I couldn't even get a hold
of that one because I forgot that I had ordered this other one before and I tried to order this
one and it was actually back order so I ended up canceling that if you look at it side by
side it looks exactly like the same part same dimensions and everything so I don't know why
they listed as two part numbers with different prices and the one for the is-300 is only the
is-300 where this one is for the Supra the SC 300 and a few other vehicles pretty much all
Toyota vehicles with this type of shifter uses the same bushing then we'll go ahead
and just use some pliers just put this over here so I don't damage the ball or anything
once you pop that thing off it pretty much damages everything so you need a new one anyway so I went
ahead and took it out and put it on the ground and see if I can just press it in on the ground
here oh there it is Pops in right easily is in here now and it moves around pretty freely
while I'm down here one of the things I'm going to do is that starter plug right
there when I was taking it apart it actually broke one of the clips broke off of it that's
a very common plug and you can actually pick that up from the dealer or you could pick it
up on Amazon or Ebay I think it's like eight to ten dollars so if you actually broke that
plug yourself when you did this project go ahead and check the links down description
to order a new one so I'm gonna go ahead and pull that little center white thing out see
if I could dislodge and pull off that plug get it ready for the new one when it comes in
The pick removes it pretty easily the little white piece comes right out
you will get a straight pick into there lift the tab up and it pulls right out
once this thing comes in I'll go ahead and just slide it right in put the white piece
back in there and it should hold pretty good first thing we want to do is get our
pilot bearing into the crank here if you look in here there's chaffer that kind of
help this thing get in center so what we want to do is get something to tap it in with you
don't want to tap directly on here because you're going to end up damaging that thing
what you want to use is a socket that's about 24 millimeters, this 24 deep socket thick wall
is perfect because it's a little bit bigger than the outer ring and it won't touch the inner ring
which it might damage the bearings get it kind of squared up to here and use a mallet
or something easy and just start tapping it in until you can still you can feel it go in and
once you see it's going in you want to make sure you tap it so it goes in squarely
get a real hammer just because that rubber mallet was rebounding too much and not getting enough
impact in there [Music]
so it's in there pretty much flush this thing gets it right onto the edge there so [Music]
we got it tapped in there perfectly as you can see here as I mentioned on my earlier video when
I was taking this down my rear main seal only has maybe like 5,000 miles on it and it's dry
as a whistle right now so I'm not gonna touch it this thing is nice and clean I see no kind
of oil or residue or anything so that's an OEM NOK seal right there if you guys haven't seen my
video on doing this go ahead and check out that video on changing this thing out if you need to
change it yourself you can see on my last video when I changed it I actually took out this whole
thing and actually redid All the FIPG right here so that gasket's brand new and sealed so before
I put the flywheel in all these holes right here for the bolt they actually go straight into the
oil pan and they get exposed and they have oil in them so what I'm gonna do I'm gonna spray some
super clean just clean out the threads and the holes a little bit so when I put the new bolts
in I don't get the oil too much into the bolt and then have it contaminated not hold I wanted
things that you'll notice is these bolts are recommended from the factory to be replaced every
time with brand new ones which we know nobody does but I do have new ones for this project and
they come with a coating on them already a Loctite coating and I want to make sure that Loctite holds
pretty well and does it leak through so we'll go ahead and just clean these out a little bit
so we'll go ahead and get the flywheel in here just go ahead and push it in line the holes up
and then we'll go ahead and get the first bolt in here so as you can see right here
this bolt it's got a 14mm,12 point on the back that's what we need and then you'll
see all the bolts brand new have this coating on them already so it's perfect for what we need it
for here go ahead and just hand thread it in and you what you want to do is tighten them
across so you want to do criss-cross patterns and then torque it down to 61 ft-lbs [Music]
things up I'm gonna just use my impact driver on the lowest one
setting and just kind of tighten it down before I torque it [Music]
so once we tighten it down we'll go get the torque wrench and hit it with some real torque
[Music]
if you have a helper it helped to have someone holding the front right now if you when you're
actually doing the torque I'm not really torqueing right now I'm just making sure I get it tightly
all right so I've got it pretty much hand tightened right now
so I'm gonna go ahead and lock the front crank so I could turn this thing
[Music]
all right got them all torqued down we're good now so next thing we're going to do is install
the six puck clutch I have so my transmission when I bought this thing second hand it came
with a used act six plug with an extreme pressure plate this thing is a pretty aggressive setup but
hopefully I can drive it daily the one thing it didn't come with was a clutch alignment tool
which is this thing right here if you guys get a second hand clutch make sure you pick up one of
these these things are pretty cheap they're like five or ten dollars impossible to install a clutch
correctly without having this thing to align the clutch so it's straight on the flywheel so you
I recommend picking up one of these if you don't have one laying around already from doing clutch
projects so we'll go ahead and get the six puck onto the flywheel and then get the pressure plate
on and then screw down the bolts the bolts are like 12mm headed bolts and they only need like
14 ft-lbs of torque so then install the clutch you basically just need to stick this thing into the
splines here center it with your pilot bearing and then just get it in there and it sits this way so
you want to make sure on your discs that you pay attention to where it says transmission side or
engine side if you have it and then you just get it right onto the flywheel once you do that you
get the pressure plate onto here so your flywheel should have dowel pins all around your pressure
plate will also have the same dowel pin alignment you want to get those in there and then get that
popped into those dowel pins before you get the bolts into there
so once you get it into there
make sure the clutch alignment tool is good so everything's perfect right now so we'll
go ahead and put those 12mm screws in here and then torque those things down [Music]
again tightened down so I'm gonna go ahead and torque it now
go ahead and torque it in the cross pattern like we tightened it
[Music]
so they're all torqued once they're torqued down you go
ahead and just pull the clutch alignment tool out
I think should be perfect now we just go ahead and get the transmission into here and bolt it up
I saw my last video on doing this tunnel right here the coating that I use from DupliColor I
think turned out pretty good it's a professional coating and it pretty much matches the OEM Rhino
liner looking stuff over here you could even see some of the spots I touched up that was missing
before and it looks like the OEM so that's pretty good stuff but if you guys haven't seen this video
go ahead and check that one out right there of me doing that tunnel all right I got this baby onto
here with the Jack underneath so I can actually lift it in place and bolt it up as you can see it
was a big pain just to kind of get everything up here by myself but I was able to lift this thing
get it kind of placed right onto that Jack with some two by fours down here to help before I get
too far I gotta remember the grease up all this stuff right here with some Molly lithium grease
especially where the throw out bearing slides in and out and then in the spines and then here just
to make sure we have some grease it's especially important around this area I forgot all about
greasing that up before I put it all back together but I'll go ahead and put some on here now before
I get started all right got that greased up right here on the spines and back here on all the moving
parts so we're pretty much good to go I ended up popping that thing off and getting that ball
greased up too so we're good there so now I'm under the car I've got this thing pretty much
lined up what I'm gonna try to do is Jack this thing up as high as I can try to get this thing
pushed in and get it into the actual pilot bearing and into the hole once you do that then you can
just push everything and Bolt the back bracket here back up here and then get all your bell
housing bolts in so this is going to be the hard and tricky part especially since I'm doing this by
myself if you have a buddy or a friend this would be much easier but I'm in my garage by myself
doing this I might have to load the lift one lock so I can actually get into there and do the work
and then not Jack it that high but I'm going to try to jack it up first as high as I can [Music]
I loaded one lock on the lift and I was able to get it closer we got this thing right around the
exhaust now except right now you can see right there the input shaft is actually close to the
clutch so I got to kind of wiggle my way in there I get this thing clear of that manifold over there
get that and keep the bell housing from hitting the frame right here just to slide it over this
would be much easier without the exhaust on but it's a pain in the ass to unbolt all that so if
you're doing this I really recommend maybe just unbolting it from the top and then that way it'll
be much easier to do this down here you see the exhaust over here is touching the bell housing
we want to be able to kind of lift it right over that and get it right into this spot right here
that was complete failure trying to get it in there so what I need to do is unbolt the
header off the engine to give me a little bit more slack and play so that manifold can slide
over then I'll have more wiggle room to try to get this thing in there that's my biggest issue right
now just trying to get this thing to clear the actual firewall and then get past the clutch and
everything and this thing kind of sticks out this thing has to go into the center of the clutch and
into the pilot bearing and that's the biggest pain right now because slide it in it hits the pressure
plate so we need to just be able to have enough room to kind of slide it right in when we line
it up so for this video I'm gonna call it quits right here on the next video I'll go ahead and
unbolt the header get all the stuff I need to get in and around this thing so I'll get this back in
there in addition one things I forgot was a heat shield so I ordered on Amazon this adhesive heat
shield from D.E.I this stuff is pretty expensive and everybody uses it for their tunnel I'm gonna
go ahead and install it on here just because I read some reviews about this thing putting off a
lot of heat compared to the automatic transmission so we'll go ahead and add that on the next video
as well as actually get this thing in there and we'll figure out exactly how to get in
there the easiest way so if you guys found this video useful give it a thumbs up if you haven't
subscribe to your channel go ahead and subscribe to your channel turn on bell notifications to get
notified every time I upload a video remember guys for all these different projects if I
can do it you guys can do it I want to thank you for watching and I'll talk to you guys next time
[Music]