PARTY, NEXT ON CHRONICLE.
SWEET OR SAVORY.
FROM CROISSANTS TO CRE BRULEE, PASTRY IS MORE THAN JUST A SWEET, FLAKY TREATS.
A PASTRY IS A CRAFT, IT IS A PRODUCT THAT THERE IS A LOT OF TIME AND SCALE AND KNOWLEDGE PUT INTO.
DESSERT IS THE ENDING COURSE OF A MEAL, IT CAN BE ANYTHING SWEET LIKE FRUIT.
PASTRY, YOU WANT TO PUT IN THE TECHNIQUE.
THIS PASTRY CHEF CREATOR FREN DELICACIES AT A PEDESTRIAN BOSTON’S SOUTH END.
FOR HER, THE CULINARY CALLING CAME LATER IN LIFE AFTER S EARNED A DEGREE IN LINGUISTICS.
>> I THOUGHT I WANTED TO WORK IN A LINGUISTIC LAB IN ACADEMIA.
>> NOT QUITE THE WOULD A PROFESSIONAL -- NOT QUITE.
A PASTRY COURSE THAT SHE TOOK FOR FUN INSPIRED A CAREER CHANGE.
>> THE LAST PART OF THE COURSE WAS TO DO A SIX-MONTH EXTERNSHIP AND I WA DEBATING COMPLETING IT BUT I LIKE TO COMPLETE THINGS, SO I D IT AND NEVER LOOKED BACK.
SHE ALSO GAIN HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE IN FRANCE AND ALONG THE WAY, SHE MET RUN OUT CHEF FREDERICK, AN AWARD WINNER WHO BECAME HER MENTOR.
>> HE WAS THE PASTRY CHEF FOR A FAINT RESTAURANT TOU FOR 25 YEARS.
HE ASKED ME IF I WANT TO GO ON ADVENTURE WITH HIM AND HE MEANT TO OPEN UP THE CAFE AND I SAID YES.
THE ADVENTURE CONTINUES ON COLUMBUS AVENUE, WHERE THE CAFE’S MISSION IS TO BE A NEIGHBORHOOD SPOT BUT ONE THAT OFFERS A AUTHENTIC FRENCH PASTRY EXPERIENCE.
>> IT IS ALSO TO TEACH WHAT REAL FRENCH PASTRY IS.
FOR EXAMPLE, NOT A PLAYER.
>> THE DEFAULT FLAVOR IS ACTUALLY NOT VANILLA FILLING, A CHOCOLATE FILLING.
IF YOU ORDER AN ECLAI IN FRANCE, YOU WILL GET A CHOCOLATE ECLAIR.
THE FRUIT TARTS ARE MORE COMPLICATED.
>> WE HAVE AN ALMOND TART SHELL AMMON ALMOND CREAM BAKED IN THE BOTTOM.
ON TOP OF THAT IS VANILLA BEAN PASTRY CREAM, AND THE FRUIT, THIS PARTICULAR ONE HAS A BLUEBERRY COMPOTE ON THE BOTTOM.
SHE TOPPED IT WITH SEASONAL FRUIT.
THIS DAY, NECTARINE, PEARS, AND PEACHES.
>> YOU WANT TO GET THE FRUIT IN THE RIGHT SEASONS, THEN THEY HAVE THE RIPENESS.
>> WHILE HER PASTRY IS VISUALLY STUNNING, SHE DOES NOT CONSIDE HERSELF AN ARTIST BUT RATHER AN ARTISAN AND PRACTITIONER OF A CRAFT.
COME TO WORK AND YOU WANT TO PERFECT AT THAT DAY AND NEXT DAY, PERFECTED AGAIN.
IT IS A LITTLE DIFFERENT THAN BEING AN ARTIST WHERE YOU HAVE ONE PIECE OF ARTWORK THAT YOU NEVER MAKE AGAIN AND I APPRECIATE THE CRAFTSMANSHIP AND PARTISANSHIP OF WHAT I DO.
♪ FRENCH PASTRY IS A FEAST FOR THE EYES BUT LET’S NOT GET CARRIED AWAY.
>> A LOT OF PEOPLE SAY, IT IS SO PRETTY I DON’T WANT TO EAT IT.
BUT I MADE IT FOR IT, YOU NEED- TO EAT IT. IT FOR IT, YOU NEED- >> THIS PASTRY CHEF KNEW WHAT HE WAS DOING WHEN HE OPENED CARMEL BY DISARRAY, BORN AND RAISED IN FRANCE HE BRINGS HIS LOVE OF
PASTRY AND SOME FAMILY LEGACY TO SALEM.
>> MY GRANDFATHER WAS A PASTRY CHEF, HE OWNED A SHOP.
MY GRANDFATHER WAS A PASTRY CHEF.
MY GRANDMA SAID, WHAT IS THE NAME OF IT?
>> THE SELECTION SATISFIES EVERY KIND OF SWEET CRAVING, FOR THOSE WHO FANCY SOMETHIN FRUITY, HE RECOMMENDS A SPECIALTY NAMED AFTER HI SISTER, A CO-OWNER OF THE BUT DISARRAY.
>> AN ALMOND CAKE, IT IS VERY SOFT.
>> THE CROWN JEWEL OF ALL THE CHOICES, THE ROYALE CHOCOLATE.
IT IS TOPPED WITH THAT LITTLE KNOT CRUNCH ON THE TOP, SURROUNDED WITH DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE.
THE BIG REED IS A DOWNTOWN SALEM STAND OUT AND WHILE IT IS A LONG WAY FROM FRANCE, FOR SOPHIE AND DIMITRI, IT IS HOME.
>> WE CAME HERE FIVE YEARS AGO.
IT WAS BUSY, IT WAS NICE AND SUNNY, WE LOVE IT.
>> IN ADDITION TO THE SHOP IN SALEM, DIMITRY AND SOPHIE HAVE A SECOND LOCATION IN DAVIS SQUARE SOMERVILLE.
DIMITRY TELLS US THEY TAKE SPECIAL ORDERS, SO IF YOU WANT A LARGER VERSION OF ANY OF THE PETITE PASTRIES YOU SAW IN THE PIECE, THEY CAN DO IT WITH A F DAYS’ NOTICE.
AND BACK TO CAFE MADELINE, IT IS NAMED FOR OWNER FREDREEK ROWBEAR’S MOTHER, WHO IS AN ARTIST.
THOSE ARE HER PAINTINGS THAT GRACE THE WALLS OF THE SOUTH END SHOP.
COMING UP, HOW A LEGEN