If you have a 360 or 365, obviously you don't want to roll out all the material
that's needed to put it on a take-up roll.
So, what I usually do for a 300 series is, I tell it, you are side B, but,
and then I tell Onyx, no, I don't want you to do anything, just sit tight,
and then I take one of the images that's on hold, and I release it.
Where, what we're going to do with the 363, 65 is, I'm going to print the first one, the first side B,
without the take-up roll, and it's going, that's going to provide me
the, uh, feed, the extra that I need on the front to put it on the take-up roll and then run the rest of the jobs.
So, usually with a 365, a 360, right here, I'm going to print the first one, and I'm going to let it go roll to floor.
Fine.
And then I'm going to back it up, put it on the take-up roll, get it exactly where I want it.
Then I'm going to roll the next job right where I need it to be,
and then I'm going to release the rest of the jobs.
OK, that's usually how I do it.
That way I don't waste any material.
I don't have to come all the way out to the take-up roll.
The first one is done sort of manually, and then all the rest I have on a take-up.
Plus, if you enabled take-up, depending how you did your first job,
You want to enable take-up on side B, because you want everything to be the same.
The way you run side A, you should run side B.
But the first job that you're going to do here on a 365 is not really going to be off.
It's going to, also it allows you to really check your registration lines.
So, I'm going to send this and it's going to start printing.
Uh, it will find the line, and it will search for it and it will tell you.
Release the job.
Side B is printed.
So, side B was sent from Onyx.
Onyx said, hey, do you want to send it?
I said yes, I want to send it.
It was set to automatic in Onyx.
It released the job.
It rolled it forward to find the black line.
It found the black line with no trouble, and it began printing the job.
Now, the, the key here is, almost all of my double-sided prints, I print vertically.
They're portrait.
Which means that in the settings, which we'll show you in a second in Onyx,
you want to go in and rotate for portrait.
That's my default setting.
All of my banners, all my prints go vertical.
That means that side B will rotate automatically.
And the way you can tell you have the side B jobs is in Onyx, it visually shows you,
hey, here's all the side B jobs.
Because you know they're side B because are all upside down.
So, side A is one way, side B is another, and the minute you send a side A job in Onyx,
it generates a side B, and it waits for you, until you load side B.
So, you have a queue of all of your banners usually, that you have ready to go,
and they're all upside down if they're vertical.
If they're lying on their side, you know, if I did this horizontal, you do not flip it.
You only flip vertical.
There's another feature in the RIP, which is mirroring
Mirroring is fine.
It's going to take the image and it does exactly what it says, it mirrors side B.
Which is kind of cool, except if you have text.
If there's any kind of text, you cannot mirror the image automatically in the RIP.
You would have to go into Photoshop and create a side B and mirror it that way.
But no, there is no mirroring in the RIP if there's text.
No text, you can mirror to your heart's content.
So, it's printing away right now.
It has found the line.
It's printing the side B.
In this case, the side B on this particular banner, I used the same preset for side A.
Once it's done with the first group, the RIP is set to print in sequence.
It's going to find the lot, registration mark and automatically do the next one,
and find the registration mark and do the next one.
In which case, I am now doing unattended side B.
Everything's on the take-up.
It's all ready to go.
It's all ready to roll.
No issues.
You can see my little black line here.
That allowed me just to do a registration.
Anytime you get out of whack, put a little black line there.
It'll find it.
It's ready to go.
At this point, I have my mobile app set on the phone.
That will track the job, make sure everything's printing perfectly, and I'm going to go to lunch,
and I'll let this thing run the rest of the job, or however many are in the queue.
And that is the foundational setup for double-sided printing.
Pick your right media.
Make sure you put it on the take-up roll.
Get everything lined up properly.
In this case, my take-up roll, we'll show you in a second here, is not ideal in terms of being the same sizes.
You always want your cores to be the same size, top and bottom.
Line everything up properly.
Make sure that you give yourself enough material, front and back.
If you don't do that, you're usually going to suffer for it.
And if you've already printed all this material, and you have this tiny little leader,
and you're trying to make it work, and anything goes wrong,
you're going to probably lose the whole set of prints,
and then you're going to have to start from the next reference point.
I don't like starting from the next reference point.
I think, like I said, I have too much invested in this to have to start from the next reference point.
It's too much loss involved.
Most of double-sided there's set up, and it just takes it, doing it a few times and you get the hang of it.
But on real short runs, it may not always be practical to do double-sided printing.
It may just be easier to do two singles on a really short run when you consider
the little bit of waste to have in the front in the back.
But once you get a familiarity with it, once you're comfortable, it's really quite easy.
I put Zund marks, which even if I didn't have a Zund, i1, Zund, Esco,
I put registration marks on there because I use them to ensure that my registration is dead on.
What I'll do is, I'll take a little pin, like a little needle, a safety pin, anything, and
I put a little hole right in the middle of that,
and there's another one on the backside, and what I'll do is, I'll look around the backside
and I'll see where that needle went, and that pretty much tells me that I have
a bullseye, and if this little mark and that little mark line up perfectly, I know I'm on.
It's just so easy.
Because sometimes it's a little hard to tell where a banner begins or ends, and if you have a long banner.
But if you have some registration marks that you put on there,
you can just puncture those with a pin and it's just a dead ringer that I hit it.
Because that way, no matter which side you chose to cut it from,
it would identify that that mark is in exactly the same place, or very close.
Now, there is a little margin of error here.
A lot of that has to do with a little bit of shrinking on side A, which you can compensate for.
Um, what I also sometimes do is, I will put a bleed around the whole thing.
Leave the text inside, make sure that doesn't come out.
Try not to get the text too close to the edges, and then just put a little bit of bleed.
Let's say a quarter of an inch bleed all the way around.
That provides for enough compensation.
Even with shrinking, that if you cut at the bleed mark and then the rest gets tossed,
you have a lot of room for movement there and you just have your little quarter inch.
It's all going to be thrown away.
That would easily compensate for a little white space on top and bottom.
But again, on all the prints I do, I do no bleed, I do no scaling.
Just to make sure how accurate I am on a standard cluster of step and repeat 12 by 18s,
I usually do 16 up, or 20 up, and then just run a half a roll or a full banner at one time.