From SwissWatchExpo… Spotlight on: the Cartier Tank family, and
its different watch models.
Introduced in 1917, the Cartier Tank was the watch to wear in the 20th century and remains an
icon today, more than 100 years after its launch.
Apart from its classic looks, one can attribute its longevity to the vast selection of styles
under the Cartier Tank family.
Varying in size, shape, metals, complications and straps, the options seem virtually infinite
when it comes to the Cartier Tank.
And yet, each model possesses the elegantly crisp and clean look that the Tank has become
known and coveted for.
Get to know different types of Cartier Tank watches, from classic models to rare and obscure
styles.
The Cartier Tank Louis is considered the quintessential Tank — the one that set
the standard for all succeeding Cartier Tank designs.
The Cartier Tank Louis, as its name suggests, was the choice timepiece of Louis Cartier
himself. Designed in 1922, it transformed the sharp and proud lines of the initial Tank
watches into more serene proportions.
The Tank Louis is loved for its refined Art Deco style: slightly elongated rectangular
case and dial, matched with slimmer, rounded brancards, or vertical bars that run along
each side of the case, seamlessly integrating the strap.
The Tank Louis Cartier is very much alive today, remaining a well-balanced and accurate
extension of the original. Available in several sizes, from small to XL, it’s a watch ideal
for both men and women.
Following the Tank Louis, Cartier launched Tank models that are more unusual but are
still refined and easy to wear. Two of these models – the Cartier Tank Obus and Cartier
Tank à Guichet (ah gee shay), would later be relaunched for a short period.
The Cartier Tank Obus first appeared in 1923. Characterized by a square case, bullet lugs,
and a busier dial with both Roman and Arabic numerals – it’s definitely not your average
Tank. The last Tank Obus was released in 1998 for the Collection Privée Cartier Paris
series.
In 1928, Cartier launched its first jumping hour wristwatch – the Tank à Guichet.
Instead of an analog display, it had two windows that show the hour and the minutes,
much like a mechanical digital watch.
The Tank à Guichet was revived in 1997 to commemorate Cartier’s 150th anniversary,
and was last produced in 2005.
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In 1989, Cartier’s designers set out to create a Tank model influenced by American
culture. The result was the elongated and curved Tank Americaine (ameri-kahn).
The Cartier Tank Americaine is reminiscent of the slim Tank Cintrée (sin-tray) of the
1920s, this time with a more pronounced curve, which is meant to fit the wrist more comfortably.
Earlier versions of the Tank Americaine were only offered in precious materials such as
yellow, rose, and white gold, as well as platinum. In 2017, for the Cartier Tank’s
100th anniversary, Cartier finally presented more affordable stainless steel versions of
the Tank Americaine.
In 1995, Cartier unveiled a sporty take on the classic Tank – the Cartier Tank Francaise
(fran-say). Positioned to appeal to the modern watch buyer, the Tank Française watch
was sportier thanks to its chain-link bracelet.
Much like the original Tank watches, Cartier drew inspiration from Renault military tanks, by
designing the chain-link bracelet to mimic caterpillar tracks. The Tank Francaise also has sharper
edges and straighter lines than previous Tank models, giving it a contemporary look.
The earliest Tank Francaise models were available in yellow gold, and two-tone steel and gold,
but one year later, Cartier introduced full stainless steel Tank Française watches—the
first full steel Tank watches ever made. It became a hit, and the Tank Francaise continues
to be a mainstay of the Tank collection.
Following the American and French Tanks, Cartier launched an English version, to complete the
tribute to its 3 flagship stores. Released in 2012, the Cartier Tank Anglaise (ang-glaze)
is the latest line of Tank watches with designs for both men and women.
Two major changes were made with the Anglaise – first is the curved case, which moves
away from the rectilinear shape of the original Tank and softens the look of the timepiece.
Second is the table cut stone in place of the classic cabochon used in classic Tank
watches. Additionally, the crown is also enclosed within the bezel -- a feature that’s novel
not just for Cartier but for watch design in general.
The latest Cartier Tank model to be released is the Tank MC. In keeping with the preference
for larger watches, Cartier launched it as a men’s model in 2013.
The watch maintains Cartier’s iconic design DNA, but with a masculine edge. The larger
display allows for the inclusion of a smaller seconds display and a date feature on top
of the classic “rail-track” dial.
The “MC” stands for Manufacture Cartier, as the watch is powered by the first self-winding
movement produced by Cartier Manufacture, the 1904 (nineteen oh four) MC.
With different kinds of models to offer, and updates every few years, the century old Cartier
Tank is as fresh today, as it was when it launched over 100 years ago.
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