- [Aaron] All right, I know everyone is excited
for me to get started, as am I.
So here we are with the first build video
of the CA10 from King Kong RC
distributed at AsiaTees.
You can see I have everything laid out, and my friends,
look at this hardware. (laughs)
This is something I'm gonna have to hand-turn
just to make sure nothing gets stripped out of course.
I want to make sure that everything goes together
the way it should with as few mistakes as possible.
And look.
I didn't even open this particular bag yet
but I don't think I need to.
I've laid everything out, and as a tip for everybody here,
when you get as much hardware as this in a kit,
don't be intimidated.
I know it looks like a big spread, but it goes by quickly.
And if you just group it out,
like here I have all rounded heads.
Here, next to it, I have all the flatheads,
all the pins, and then of course,
these are all special top hex-heads
but we'll get into that when I get there.
But lay it all out so it's easy for you to understand.
Get everything together, and then that way,
you can kind of attack it as you go.
I suggest using a magnetic pit mat,
and I got this at cowrc.com.
They've been doing RC magnetic pit mats forever.
So very helpful when you want to lay it all out.
I've got my first screw bag right there
and I will be using these trays as I go.
Yeah, and what else can I say
except let's hop right in to step number one,
which is attaching the servo.
Okay, the first part actually confused me a little bit.
It's says HA15L, and I was looking at all the hardware
over here, and it turns out it's not hardware at all.
It's in fact a bracket in this long piece here.
It's black, aluminum, so left and right.
Today I'm gonna be using a Savox Servo.
This is one that I have waterproofed myself.
This is a 1230SG.
I have shown in videos before
how to use Turbo Coat Conformal Coating.
This actually cures very fast.
Within five minutes, I can waterproof my own servo.
So expensive servos or not,
now you can waterproof with that.
I'm just following the pictures in the book, of course.
Like this.
And then it has the servo being mounted up.
It looks like I'm going to have to cut the small triangles
out of here which are called gussets.
Okay, here you can see right on the top.
So I shaved those gussets right off and it's nice and flat
and it won't be inhibiting me from mounting it up anymore.
I'm using my bag of M38 buttonhead screws,
so I'm just gonna open that up,
drop them down into one of my trays in my magnetic tray.
So this is HA0019, I believe.
I'm just gonna take this out and have a look at it.
It's a beautiful aluminum piece.
Look at that.
Okay, then I'll be taking out the chassis rails.
I read that these are actually aluminum.
They're just incredibly thin aluminum.
But you can hear.
That's aluminum.
The screws here are gonna be the M 2.5 by eight.
And I'm gonna use just a small dab of blue Loctite on this
just because it's aluminum on aluminum.
If I see this properly, the way this should line up,
if I turn this around, nice.
That's some nice machining down in here.
Finish the job.
Okay, now I get to pick out another piece out of the tray.
Looks a lot like this one.
I'm also using another one of these pieces
that aren't labeled here.
Can I get 'em out of the bag?
This is gonna fit on the other side of the piece
I just showed.
Taking it behind the chassis rail.
I'm just gonna lead my screw through first
and then I'll Loctite the other three.
Get these two L-pieces.
You can see what I mean.
Number one, number two.
And of course, these right here are the L-brackets.
I just got fooled.
I thought it was these plastic ones
but that's for the step after.
I like this.
The aluminum brackets, as you can see here,
are actually marked right and left.
Remember when I talked about these plates
in the first video?
Well, now we know exactly what we're dealing with.
Since it's R, one set goes over here,
and then of course the L set goes over here.
These actually have Loctite already pre-threaded on them,
so awesome.
I don't have to do that.
I'm using a lot of these in the next step,
and I'm just gonna go ahead and put them on the chassis rail
so you can see what they look like.
And I just want to say
before I put any of this on the chassis,
all of this is aluminum.
Okay, so everything is now assembled.
Make sure that you are paying attention to the hole count
as well as the direction that you're installing these pieces
'cause you'd hate to do that and then have to redo it after.
It is a quite a bit of work to get that done.
The next piece we're dealing with is straight in the foam.
Look at this.
This is all aluminum as well.
This bag is super important.
This has the two small socket pieces that you need
for these very small screws.
If you don't have these socket pieces,
you're not gonna be able to turn these screws.
So do not lose them, and in fact, keep them for the future
'cause you will need them if you stay in the RC hobby.
Okay, as a helpful tip or trick,
normally I'll take an old Allen key like this
and just glue it right on the end.
Test-fit a screw with it to make sure
that everything is nice and strong,
and then that way you'll always have this tool on hand.
Keep it in your toolbox and your bag.
That way you can keep tightening things up when you need it.
But one little problem I seem to be having is
how they've done these cross-beams.
See how in the inside they haven't used nuts or washers?
And that's fine.
I don't mind using pieces of metal to secure things
on the outside,
but the issue is is the way the holes have been drilled.
So if you're doing this, and you get one of these projects,
you might have to file it down just a little bit
to get it to fit.
Ba-bam!
There you go, guys.
Check it out.
An all-aluminum chassis.
I did have some hole alignment issues
which made it a little bit more challenging
with these small hex-driver screws.
I wish they would use just normal, regular hex screws
but for all the scale fanatics that are out there,
they want to have all of those little tiny bolts in there.
You can see I've put them in on one side,
but really, as I found, I went through
and started making it stronger with larger screws,
a little less scale, but overall, very strong.
So I'm gonna move forward from here.
The front bumper and the hooks are on.
Hey, super cool.
It has aluminum hooks here for towing and/or a winch point.
And of course, the back frame here, very strong.
All right, now we're getting to the fun part
and I get to pick out some of these leaf springs.
Look at these, already prebuilt.
Now if you're building along with me,
have a look on the bottom.
These little nuts actually have to come off,
and why would that be?
Well, you see these shackles right here?
They actually right into these pre-done holes
right on the alloy axle housing, I guess.
This is an open axle.
This is not a driven axle because this vehicle
that I'm building right now is a two-wheel drive.
So what I have to do is get out both sets of leaf springs
and remove all four from both sides
and then bolt them to the bottom of the axle.
A little socket driver like this makes the job
much more easy.
Truly it just looks like a work of art.
I love how they did this.
So here's an oddity.
If you guys are like actually building along with me,
just so you know, I'm looking at this shackle.
These shackles actually from the factory came longer
than these ones, and I don't think it was on purpose.
I think it's an accident.
So I'm gonna have to shave these down
because they are far too long.
I can't even get the driver on there. (laughs)
(machine working)
(metal shaving)
Now that is simply beautiful.
Okay, chassis flipped over and the axle towards the front,
I'm gonna ease these leaf springs right down
into the hangers.
Check out this evil-looking piece right here.
The overload leaf spring's looking amazing.
They're actually clamped onto the bottom
of this preassembled rear axle.
Everything seems up to par,
and I might as well just mount it up.
Try as I might, my friends, I have not able to find
the piece for A0030.
They said there's two of 'em.
0029, which is completely different with a hex head,
I cannot find these anywhere here, as well as the A0023.
Now the odd part is is that the 2-031
doesn't appear anywhere in the instruction book.
So there's eight pins right here.
There's six pins that I can't find.
I'm gonna go ahead and try and use these ones,
though these ones are really unique.
I can't find them in any of the places,
not under my stuff, not around the pit mat,
not on the floor, nowhere.
And there we go.
This truck is going to be super stiff.
It wasn't gonna be a smooth Cadillac ride, that's for sure.
These front leaf springs doing an excellent job of moving.
And really, what this is overall is just supremely
a work truck, a workhorse, if you will
because back in the old days, it was about carrying
heavy loads and going slow.
Speaking of going slow,
this motor says the opposite of that.
Check it out, a 15-turn motor from Arrma.
This is a brushed motor.
The reason I'm using this is
because really it's a recycled motor,
plus only having one driven wheel
in an unlocked differential in a rear-wheel-driven vehicle,
I'm gonna want a little bit of wheel speed.
So I'm gonna use an already waterproofed,
I'm also recycling this, this is a Tekin FXR ESC.
This has always done me a great job
and I barely used it before I swapped it out.
Okay, so I took the motor mount off
just so I could put copious amounts of grease on here.
Is this going to be helpful over time
or is it going to attract lots of dirt and water, like mud?
Of course it is.
But I am protecting the bushings and the gearing
on the inside.
Okay, so unfortunately, when I'm looking at step number 31,
it kind of clearly shows there's an exposed motor plate
to attach the motor.
Here, I'm assuming this is an updated design
and it doesn't have that.
So I am gonna have to remove the motor plate
to attach the motor.
The pinion is 14-tooth pinion and they show
it being installed on the motor shaft backwards,
so sliding on like this.
Set screw with a small amount of Loctite.
Look at this, guys.
Look at this.
Here it is.
Transmission, motor, all hooked up.
When I actually take my driver
and put it into the out-drive shaft, I can move it,
I don't feel any kind of resistance right now,
so I'm good to put it in.
A lot of people always tell me that they're intimidated
by building these types of models
'cause they see it's a really big job, and it is.
You know, like today,
I spent a lot of time building this model, but I've had a,
it's not cleaning the hole.
Ha ha, that is what she said.
It's just a chance to think and be creative,
and imagine what you're gonna be able to do
with your RC by the time you're done.
Doing a good job the first time is always gonna reward you
in the end.
Well, it's certainly coming together now.
And here's where I introduce this straight piece,
which looks like a drive shaft, and in a way, it is.
All right, I'm just gonna go ahead and flip this over.
A small amount of Loctite just to the threaded area.
Next comes this little beauty,
which we can attach it to for a drive shaft extension.
So many people have been asking me
why the heck I'd be doing a two-wheel drive truck,
but I gotta say overall,
I think I'm gonna enjoy the challenge.
Like normally, I've got four-by-four rigs
that can conquer most anything I throw at it
and why not explore the hobby a little more
and enjoys the days of old?
I did discuss locking the differential up,
and I'm sure I can do that fairly easily,
but as people mentioned in the last video,
in the unveiling video, that this truck came
as an unlocked diff, really two-wheel drive,
and really, it depended on weight in the back bed
to give it any kind of traction.
I'm going to leave this unlocked.
That's been the decision for now.
I can always lock it at a later time.
And so off-camera, I've actually been assembling the wheels.
Now these are aluminum.
What you see here are the rear dually tires.
I already have them set up right here.
Very, very simple.
It just bolts together as you can see, but be forewarned.
You can see I broke one of my screw-heads in there already
because if it strips out, it can snap very simple.
So I'm like turning it by hand.
I thought I felt it stripping out, you know,
and all of a sudden, they had broke right off.
So fair warning to you guys, aluminum on aluminum.
These screws seem to be a little bit soft.
But dually tires nonetheless.
And then of course, these tires here are gonna be the front.
As you can see, I will need to glue the rubber
around these rims, but I'm not gonna do that just yet.
All righty, my final steps in making this
a completed roller.
I've actually been at this for hours, guys,
while I've been filming in the background, of course,
and just editing.
You guys only see it in minutes, but I've actually been
working on this for about six hours now,
but that includes filming time, of course.
So if you guys are looking at build time,
you know, you might be looking at about three hours.
Guys, these wheels right here actually need to have
some bearings put in, and the bearings come inside the kit
ready for you to use.
So they supply them.
All right, so I'm gonna use some Lightning Lube
for bearing grease.
Why am I using this?
Well, because I know that my vehicle is going to see water
over time, and I just want to ensure that give my bearings
as much protection as possible.
Will this kind of grease attract dirt?
Yes.
Will I be able to clean it out in the future?
Yes.
Will it help prevent any kind of rust on this bearing?
Absolutely.
So for me, that's a win right there.
Well, there you go, my friends.
A full roller is now ready for you to see.
Generally speaking, everything is done.
A few little minor tweaks and things, but look at that.
The spare tire's mounted right on the chassis.
A two-wheel drive driven truck.
There wasn't a step to install this aluminum gas tank,
which turns out to be the receiver and ESC box,
but I went ahead,
just threw in some six-millimeter button-head screws there.
This is a recycled motor,
so I'm gonna be doing a proper extension
and heat shrink on here so we don't have that blue tape,
and then that way I'll be able to situate everything
into this gas tank slash electronics box easily.
But still have a little bit of bowing going on
in the tires here, as you can see,
and I really think this just has to do with
how the tires sit when they're not glued
or how they are just mounted.
I'm gonna hope that I can actually fix this issue
because there's no way
other than just to kind of mold the foams
and hope that they can go straight.
But overall, guys, I love it.
Check out the back duallies on this.
Of course, this is gonna be a workhorse.
I'm gonna be hauling loads.
Not a lot of traction with old tires like this,
but maybe I'll get in there with the Dremel
and cut some siping.
I think that'll help, especially when I'm out on the trail
but weight will be my friend.
The next thing I have to do really
is get on with the back trailer part,
and then of course, I'm dreading this a little bit.
I'm nervous, because this would make a great rat-rod body
but at the same time, I want to use it for the truck
as well as imagine I'm playing SPiNTiREs. (laughs)
Guys, thanks a lot for tuning in.
Hopefully you've enjoyed the build.
Please for all of the effort, leave a like, click,
and please leave a comment.
What do you think of this project?
Is it one of your favorites that RC Sparks has done?
Guys, until next time.
We'll see you in the next episode.
Bye for now.