What's up everyone? Welcome back to The Durbin Compound! If you haven't met me already, my name
is Devin Durbin. So today in the shop here at The Durbin Compound, I think what we're going to do
is build some cheap sawhorses that don't suck. So, I originally got this idea from Kyle over at
RR Buildings. He did an awesome project with his son. They built some sweet sawhorses. I think
I'm going to put my own little spin on it. I think I want to cut a couple of little angles on the
legs. And I'm going to show you guys how I'm going to do it. This cost all of, I think, under $20.
So if you've ever gotten the little plastic or metal brackets for sawhorses and zapped them together
with drywall screws, you've found out that there's a lot to be desired. And they're just not sturdy.
They don't hold up well. Yes, they might stack. Yes, they might tear down easy, but they just all-around
don't do a good job. So how about you just buy the wood, put some time in, and make some cheap
sawhorses that don't suck? So today what we're doing is six pieces that are 4' long. We're
going to build a little I-beam. I thought that was an awesome, awesome job, Kyle. That's a great idea!
And it has a great way of pocketing those legs into it as well. So the legs--we're going to make
eight of them at 32". First things first is, we need to cut our lumber. All right, now that
we got all of those boards cut, I went ahead and went with some different dimensions. I thought 48"
was a little too long. So I took it down to 42". So I took 6" off the top for the
crossbar there. That'll give me plenty of working room if I'm working with 2 X 12s. Or if I want
my miter saw up on it, I'll have plenty of room to be able to do a lot of stuff over a sawhorse this wide.
I really like that aspect of it. As far as the legs, I went with a 36" leg to kind of bring
it up high, so when I'm working on my miter saw, I don't have to bend down. And I'm not overreaching,
or overextending, while working with my miter saw. So next thing to do is to drill some holes and run
some screws and put this project together. So we need that drill and impact. All right, now you have your
drill and impact. What you want to do is pre-drill all of your holes. I usually use an 1/8"
bit to pre-drill for all drywall screws. So we're going to go ahead and make our I-beams. I'm going
to bring you in close and personal and we're going to make the I-beam cross members. And
then we're going to attach the legs. So, I had burnt up my table saw while trying to cut the legs. So it
kind of gave out on me. So we might not do a miter cut. Might do them exactly how Kyle built them.
So let's get down to it.
All right, first things first, we're going to drill four holes here. I'm going to keep my
hole spaced out towards the end.
And then all I'm using is some 3 " coarse drywall screws here.
Flip over and do the same thing.
All right, so I was going to bevel the legs here at a 45
degree angle. But I think I'm going to leave them alone. I think I have to leave them
alone because my table saw took a crap on me. So it needs new brushes and I'm going to
go ahead and just put the legs in here. We're going to screw them into place and get it going.
So, let's put the legs on this bad boy.
All right, now we're going to square up our legs here.
{drill and impact driver working}
{music playing}
{making second sawhorse}
All right guys, so there you have it. Some cheap sawhorses that are pretty awesome. They'll
withstand the test of time. You might need to trim a little bit off your legs if
you weren't all that precise in the cutting procedure. When you cut them to length and
they weren't all the same, there might be some trimming on the legs that you might need
to do. Figure out what leg is longest or that's throwing you off. Putting the square in the elbow
of each leg is very important. Make sure you get that leg straight as far as it goes with
the sawhorse, so that, you know, your leg is going down straight to the ground. A very important step.
Now I'm just going to take the random orbital sander. I'm going to sand all my edges-- smooth it down.
Make it real nice and finished. If I ever want to use this as a platform for a miter saw,
I can always stagger these. One thing I did figure out with my shop floor is that if I have
the table, or the sawhorse, like this, it's way out of balance. And I'm like, "Man! Did I cut it that bad?
Is it really that bad?" And then I turn it this way and it sits up--it sits great. So it's like, okay
this sawhorse is fine this way, but if I turn it this way, it rocks like crazy. So there's
a high spot or a low spot. I don't know, but I did figure that out. Got a little bit flustered! It's 85 degrees
here in the shop. I think I've sweat enough today for this video. So I hope you guys enjoyed. If you
like it, give me a thumbs up. Give me a thumbs down if that's what you're into. Whatever.
Tell me how bad I suck in the comments. I always enjoy reading that stuff. So as always, a nice cool video.
Some man stuff going on here around the shop. And, you know, if you guys like this kind
of stuff put it in the comments. Interact with me. I'd love to talk to you. As always, I hope to
see you subscribe and we'll see you guys in the next video.
When people think I probably don't work in my shop because it's always so nice and clean... Yeah, I do leave projects out
sometimes just juke strewn everywhere. Crap all over the benches and stuff. So yes, I do work in
my shop. It is a 100% working shop and from time to time I do leave stuff out. So it's not always
pristine and clean like I do in the videos. So I'm about to shoot another video right now.