hey guys welcome back it is day five and we were thinking we were gonna get a ice
storm of some sort they were calling for some freezing precipitation thankfully
it did not come so we are going to we're gonna get our roof separated for some
reason sometimes I remember sometimes I don't and have the metal sales
manufacturing split it into two bunks when I don't remember it means we've got
to split it ourselves because obviously we don't want to put it all up in one
I guess one attempt we want to split it for the weight on the scissor lift
because anything 48 wide and smaller we put the steel up in the scissor lift and
take it up anything bigger than 48 we use a plank and the telehandler to lift
it up to the roof double-check everything to make sure it's square
we've got to run our what we call a mini angle it covers the top of our fascia
board and then we come back behind it and mark out it feels like a snow day
doesn't it yeah it kind of does I do then we come back after the mini angles
down and we mark out the layout of all of our steel so we'll go three foot ones
back 16 nine foot one so while we're down here laying out the bottom Greg is
up top running the top nailer row that way we can stay parallel to the end make
sure that we end in the same position this is a 60 foot long roof which means
we can lay our ribs right on the edge of the roof and we'll have one in the exact
same spot on the other end using up 20 panels to do the entire roof without any
way so that's awesome so once we get that marked out we'll lay our closure
strips that's what we use to keep anything from you know blowing wind or
snow up into the building from the ribs out of the soffits now these are the
closure strips that I'm talking about and they match the profile of the steel
real nice that way they fill up the rib and the minors and they get squished
down creating a seal here on top of the flashing
that's about it once that's done is just on to roofing of course I forgot to turn
my boom mic on I've got the new camera which I'm using a boom mic on hopefully
you guys can notice the difference in quality I know I do and hopefully it you
know transpires maybe it doesn't matter too much but this section here you know
we're showing how we start the first sheet of steel Greg's got his fall
protection on we always come in at 8 foot in with that first trusses so we
can walk up it be secure the sheet of Steel is gonna balance you and just take
your time and get up once we have that first one set on our marks and screwed
down it does get a lot easier because at least you have something flat to work on
or at least semi flat now you'll notice here as I bring the second sheet in I've
already got my leading edge of the first sheet right at inch and a half I'm gonna
make sure that they're flush I'm gonna screw the back lap side first then I'm
gonna come over to the syphon rib which is the leading edge and I'm gonna make
sure it's that inch and a half if it's not I have Greg move it one way or the
other because it probably means my fascia board is in or out in between the
trusses because remember we made sure the trusses were straight with a string
line now once I get that bottom row done I can usually reach the second row but
we typically leave everything else until we're done laying all the sheets on the
roof so one of the questions that I always get is do you punch the roof
steel and no we don't punch the roof steel what we do is we mark every pearl
in going down the sheet after we've laid it and that way we basically connect
dots and yeah is it a laser straight line no it goes back to the hole is it
important is it worth it and you know this whole contractor saying like that's
good enough it's up on the roof nobody's gonna see it except for the birds
there's some truth to that in the sense that efficiency wise it really doesn't
make sense to try to make a perfect straight line 20 feet up in the air you
do want to make it watertight you want to make sure your screws hit all the
purlins which forces you to be as straight as possible but you should with
experience be able to cross a three foot panel with a straight line from point to
point and make a pretty straight line so if you've been watching any of
the previous build series you might see us use some fall protection on and off
and we're really making a concerted effort to use fall protection on every
job the problem is post frame construction doesn't actually have a
like official OSHA approved fall protection system and that's being
worked on I've actually talked with 3m and the national frame Builders
Association on that problem but for now what I've got is this is a fall arrest
anchor this thing slips over the top court of a truss and it locks in and
with our 2 by 10 top cord trusses it's act just like perfect but we put this up
at the peak and the biggest thing is having this stanchion just up enough so
that way our our fall arrest system is above the roof and not like down in the
framework because our issue being that we have a purlin that's above our trust
so when we mount this and our and our purlins is about right here we've still
got this ring up above so we put one of these about every 16 to 24 foot
depending on the layout of the building and I think I give about $30 a piece on
these on Amazon I'll throw the link down below if anybody's interested but
definitely the older I get the more I have to lose like kids and a wife I
think more about safety and it's just a good thing to do as to be as safe as
possible yeah so I'll show you how we use these
there we go so now that's locked in there nice and that's what we will hook
well our tether to for our auto retractable z' we're about four feet
away from that guy this roof is about 26 foot so we're kind of maxed out we don't
want our horizontal distance to get too much bigger or we don't want it bigger
than the distance from the peak to the overhang this is a contractor version
50-foot fall tech and I'll go ahead and put the link to this I bought this off
at Amazon I think I give around maybe somewhere in the four to five hundred
bucks 50 foot retractable with the cable and honestly it's just a lot better than
the ropes we used to attach ropes and that's what was so cumbersome and
painful you're always tripping over ropes at least even though you have this
constant pole right I mean that's what you kind of complain about the most but
there's a constant pole but I guess the good thing is is if you were to fall
slip it will latch right inside there's a mechanism that basically catches so if
it if it sees a quick fall it's gonna stop you automatically so I get a lot of
questions about what we were using for fall protection these are like I said
around 500 bucks they weigh about good lord I feel like they weigh about 50
pounds and it's just got a quick-release thing here and that's what attaches to
that bracket that we were just showing you so I feel a lot better knowing that
we're up here and if we were to fall at least we'd dangle and get made fun of
for a little bit but we would be living to see another day right Greg right
because we care about each other care by each other give me that
now I already know I'm gonna get the question why do you guys screw in the
flats and not on top of the rib and I'll be honest the manufacturers recommended
screw pattern is in the flat and unless you're going to nail it seem nails have
more I guess pliable miss to them they're more bendable they are more
forgiving in movement and with a post frame construction where the steel the
actual steel skin is your shear strength that is your diaphragm as in you're not
using any plywood there is movement in the building and that stress on that
fastener is better in the flat where it's nice and tight versus sitting up on
the rib where there can be flexed because screws will break way before a
nail breakage hence why if you're using nails that don't really seal that well
they can work themselves out you want to put them up on the rib to help aid in
any leaking down the road versus a screw with that neoprene washer is gonna is
gonna do its job when done you know correctly when you install it correctly
you know you don't want to over tighten it you don't want to under tighten it
but it is gonna do the job and is going to give you a stronger diaphragm
connection in the flat then on top of the rib so that's why our our buildings
does it doesn't mean you have to I would talk to your manufacturer and see what
they think is best for you and your application
now I could screw all day literally we got a lot of spoon to do but just for
demonstration purposes I just wanted to run some clips through I've only used
this leave this is the second time ever so I'm getting a little bit better it
does take a little bit getting used to go ahead and do a couple more screws
also we've marked this rough every sheet of Steel gets marked so that we know
where the purlins are so I'm basically just connecting connecting the dots well
we were able to get this side of roof done and I'm pretty happy about that
because it's pretty windy we had some misty snowy icy crap come
through and took us off the roof for just a short while but we're able to get
back up that stopped so now once this site is done I feel really good about
you know having this building partially locked down the roof diaphragm is a big
part of the strength in the building we still will keep our chains up we've got
all those angle braces we put up yesterday but we're gonna have to do
either a little bit of grade work on the north side of the building the other
side in order to roof or we're gonna have to bring in my boom lift which I'll
probably end up bringing the boom lift in due to frozen ground it's kind of
hard to work it and make it level for us when it's frozen so once your fire way
to check and see if you you made sure that your building was square and you
did a good job laying that roofing is by having that nice straight line down your
fascia and I've referenced how we've done that in past videos so if you are
curious on how exactly you make your roofline straight
check out I do believe it is the mancave series and when we are roofing I kind of
explained the whole inch and a half push and pull the sheet to straighten it out
so right here behind me is the front end wall and there's supposed to be a window
right in the middle of this 12-foot section however when laying out the
building we really needed a post somewhere in there and instead of adding
two posts one on each side of the window I went ahead and put it right through
the middle and then what we're gonna do is a little bit of a special detail
header on this window so on all of our other windows we measures down from this
Girt which is told on our story pole to be the exact same height on every post
and we come through and we've measured down 19 inches so the top of my window
is at 19 inches down from this dirt up here but what I've got to do is I gotta
add or subtract how I look at it I gotta go up three inches inch and a half for
my window frame and another inch and a half for the thickness of my stiffener
that's gonna go at the bottom of the header and I'll do the same thing at the
bottom I'll go to 19 inches I'll go 36 down and then add another
three inches for the thickness of my window frame box and the stiffener at
the bottom of the window
so the next thing I'll do is I'll cut that post out so that I can run my
stiffeners from the door jamb post to the corner post
oh okay because you were singing really annoying and then you started seeing
fairly like you were trying to do a good job I mean if that's what you really
want to do sing your heart away man yeah I did warn you I just want you hey you
know a lot of people find their singing career on YouTube Greg
perfect
well it's getting dark I'm not able to finish this window right this minute
because I gotta get out of sight I gotta go you've got some other priorities I've
got to take care of and it's five o'clock so I hate leaving little tasks
unfinished but that's the way it's going to be we got that first side of roof on
we did a lot of grade work so we can hopefully get the lifts around probably
have to bring my boom lifts tomorrow so that we can be a little bit more
efficient and then we'll get that north side of roof on hopefully wrap-up soffit
fascia maybe start even putting some house wrap wainscot who knows I think
once we get through this site issues and get that roof on it's gonna go a lot
quicker on the outside because there's really not a whole lot of detail work on
this one there's the two overhead doors a couple windows and one walk door so
I'm assuming the next couple days if the weather cooperates there gonna be a lot
happening that being said doesn't mean it's gonna be a boring one make sure
you've hit that subscribe button so you follow along with the rest of the build
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