Three months ago,
I set out to build a terrarium coffee table.
Sure, I turned my computer desk into a terrarium years ago,
but this one will be different.
I wanted to include a waterfall edge with an actual running waterfall inside of it.
The inspiration for this entire project was a live edge pine board.
It sparked the entire concept
and was pivotal to this design, but it had an issue.
It was cupped and thus unsuitable to build with.
At least initially.
The edges were also full of undesirable debris.
A wire brush took care of that with ease.
My design consists of two parallel slabs with their live edges in the middle.
I ripped the board down the center to account for that.
This cut, however, wasn’t square.
I didn’t want to do this so early in the process, but I had no choice.
It was just too wide to fit into the planer,
which was the solution for the cup.
I can fix that later, though.
Anyway, I checked the thickness of the board to get a baseline.
I also marked them to ensure I was removing any unevenness.
After setting the depth, I began processing the boards.
I don’t know about you, but I find this so satisfying.
These rough boards look so fresh and uniform
when they emerge from the other side of the planer.
The newly acquired flat surfaces allowed me to fix my cut from before.
I measured for the desired size and ran a chalk line for a visual.
I ripped the boards accordingly and lightly sanded the inconsistencies.
These two flat surfaces allowed me to square off the ends of each board.
And at this point in the process,
I could finally account for the 45° angle
that’s necessary for the waterfall edge.
Starting at 60 grit and working up to 220,
I gave all the boards a proper sanding.
I’ll construct the remainder of the table with reclaimed ¾" thick plywood.
I cut it into various sizes and sanded them to remove the paint.
I drove countersink holes along the edges for screws.
Then, I applied glue on the backside of these spots,
matched everything up,
and screwed them together.
I repeated this several times, wiping off the glue as I did.
This L-shaped box will hold everything.
The water will fill the top compartment and overflow in front.
Of course, I designed it so the live edge will frame that in.
That's what I would’ve said if I didn’t make an error.
I made the sides too short and couldn’t cut the boards.
I already had glass for the front that was based on their dimensions.
Luckily, it was an easy fix.
I attached a thin board along the top to fill the gap.
I also applied wood filler to conceal the screws and inconsistencies.
For this to work correctly, the interior has to be waterproofed.
A non-toxic epoxy seemed like the best solution.
I mixed up two parts accordingly.
I cut up fiberglass as well.
To begin, I brushed epoxy into the corners.
Then, I embedded the fiberglass into this and applied more.
This step is important because ensures the corners will hold up.
To apply it elsewhere, I used a roller to get it on all the flat surfaces.
Although one coat may have been sufficient,
I wasn’t taking any chances.
After it cured, I scuffed it with sandpaper, mixed it up, and applied two additional layers.
I’ll also apply epoxy to the other boards, but this one is clear.
I mixed up a test batch to see how even I could get it.
I liked the result, so I continued on the actual boards.
I quickly passed the heat gun over this to remove air bubbles while it was still wet.
I was pleased with the result, but I only applied it to the underside of the boards.
There were drips and other things I had to sand off before continuing.
Now prior to attaching them to the plywood,
I stuck a piece of veneer to the edge of the top.
This spot will be visible on the finished product,
and having wood grain will look much cleaner.
I don’t want any fasteners to be visible on these boards.
To avoid such a thing, I created pockets holes in all of the appropriate areas.
Even though the boards are sealed,
I applied a bead of silicone in between the seams.
This will create a gasket that will protect the wood on the exterior from moisture.
I clamped the boards together and locked them in with screws.
I also fastened them to the underside of the bottom.
Once the silicone cured,
I sanded the edges to ensure everything was uniform.
Unfortunately, I also had to fill a gap on the waterfall edge.
I cut up common boards at an angle that align perfectly to the sides of the table.
Again, I don’t want any visible fasteners.
Wood glue and clamps were the obvious solution.
However, as I was doing doing this,
I realized I didn’t account for something crucial
an access port for the pump’s cord.
The only spot that made sense was on the back here.
Luckily I came up with a great solution.
I cut a board into three sections and glued the ends to the table.
The middle piece will instead be removable.
I shaved a little off the top for proper alignment
and ensured the grain remained consistent across each piece.
However, I still need a way for the cord’s pump to exit the table seamlessly.
I measured for the overflow height and marked that on the back.
I used that for reference as I drilled this hole,
which has to be far above the waterline.
Neodymium magnets are the best solution to hold this board with ease.
I simply used a guide to create holes for them on both surfaces.
I also put dots on the ends as a reference for the polarity.
I still have to account for the cord on the board, though.
You’ll never see this, so I sloppily made a trench
for it to run through with a drill and chisel.
It’s not pretty, but it hides everything while giving full access to the pump.
Now I can finally finish the exterior.
I secured the door from the inside with screws
to consistently sand it with the other surfaces.
You'll see that I ended up with gaps along the edges as well.
Rather than use food filler or something of that nature,
I filled the gaps with wood glue.
The glue binds with the wood dust as I sand,
creating a seamless appearance.
As I did this, I also accounted for the opening on the back.
I removed the corners to align them with the live edges.
Even though I hate sanding,
I took the extra time to create a smooth and uniform surface.
I had to account for the legs too.
Originally, I intended to make wooded ones, but I found these unexpectedly.
I knew they’d look great.
However, they’re not tall enough.
I measured the height and planed a board to account for the difference.
I’ll actually attach all of this together later on, though.
Before sealing the outside,
I patched the holes from the screws I used to hold the door.
I also secured the magnets with hot glue.
I imagined this piece being glossy from the beginning.
Epoxy was the apparent solution,
especially with how beautiful the underside of the live edge looked.
I took my time and applied three coats to every surface.
I made sure to encase the magnets as I did.
However, other than the magnets, this all failed.
There were expected inconsistencies on the whole thing,
like drips and streaks.
Sanding and buffing easily fixes this, but only if you apply enough epoxy.
Within no time, I sanded down to the wood.
I knew it would be nearly impossible to get the finish I wanted at this rate.
I had no choice but to remove the epoxy and use something else.
Did I mention that I hate sanding?
It took five hours of continuous sanding to reset the canvas.
My hands were shaking, and my face hurt from the respirator,
but I had to keep going.
This time I decided to use lacquer on the exterior.
It dries much faster than epoxy, is waterproof,
and will provide a comparable finish.
Now I know next time, only use epoxy on the inside.
Anyway, I applied seven coats of lacquer.
Sure, I was annoyed doing this, but I actually prefer it over the epoxy.
It’s not quite as glossy, and the natural color of the wood shines through.
Now, I can finally add the legs.
I drilled holes in the spacer blocks to fasten them to the underside.
Then, I secured the legs.
It worked perfectly and looked good.
So I disassembled and glued the blocks in place.
I also taped off the entire underside to paint it black.
Once that dried, I reattached the legs to complete the main structure of the able.
This area will serve as a reservoir for a pump.
It will send water into the top compartment,
filling it with water until it overflows into the bottom, creating a loop.
Or at least that’s how I intended for it to function.
I had to do a water test before continuing because everything hinges on that.
Naturally, I was nervous doing this because so much had led up to this point.
Luckily, I had no issues. I could finally bring life to this design.
First and foremost, I had to cover all of the epoxy with something I could build on.
I took measurements and chopped up various pieces of XPS Foam.
This was a great option, but I ensured the pieces fit correctly before continuing.
With adequate coverage, I glued some of the board together.
I also drilled a hole in one of these pieces
that I plumbed with a vinyl tube locked in with zip ties.
I’ll use foam, paint, and glue in just a moment,
so I masked off the tabletop to preserve my work.
Expanding foam adheres well to epoxy, making it the perfect adhesive.
I stuck various-sized rocks on top of this in the waterfall edge.
Even though I used hot glue, it’s not a permanent solution.
It doesn’t hold up in water long-term.
I’m using it solely to hold the rocks until I apply more expanding foam and glue.
I included stones up top as well.
I used expanding foam not only to hold the rocks
but also to make a gradual slope along the XPS base.
However, since it expands, I had to carve the excess.
Luckily, this creates great texture in the process.
A texture that, when covered with paint, can look like dirt.
In this instance, Drylok that I tinted black.
This is just the base layer, tough.
Once dry, I topped it with a dry brush layer of brown,
which resulted in a seamless look
that makes the stones appear as if they’re embedded into an embankment and hillside.
I still have to address the small rocks,
that if left unchecked,
would eventually fall out as is because of the hot glue.
To simultaneously strengthen it all and hide the gaps,
I doused them with super glue.
I sprinkled sand and coco fiber on top of this to create a seamless appearance.
Jungle Vines seemed like a good addition as well.
It was so satisfying to remove the plastic
and see the scape in contrast with the live edge.
It was the point when I could finally see the fruits of my labor coming to fruition.
Running the pump’s cord was simple
because I included a trough above and behind the foam for easy access,
which you can see better before I painted it.
I placed cargo mesh fabric in areas above the waterline where I want moss.
This will wick water, creating the ideal growing surface.
I then added an aquasoil mix for the base layer to add nutrients.
This could’ve looked good with either sand color,
but I decided on the natural coloration.
Atop the fabric, I generously added tufts of Java Moss.
A proper build is never complete without moss.
The details matter as well.
Various-sized stones sprinkled atop the sand
created more texture and interest within the stream.
Anubias added to this well.
However, it was at this point that I realized I should probably get the waterfalls running
so I could properly assess where to put the plants.
The waterfalls were a sight to see for sure,
but it was splashing everywhere.
Strategically placing moss within the flow took care of this issue with ease.
I put gravel in the pump vault for good measure as well.
A few more plants brought it all together.
To finish it off, I Installed the glass.
I secured the waterfall edge with retaining clips,
and the top simply dropped in
Not only is this functional piece of furniture,
but it’s a living terrarium,
complete with an actual running waterfall.
I wasn’t only thinking of aesthetics, though.
I planned for everything I could think of to ensure this design was a success.
Using epoxy on the interior and lacquer elsewhere will keep it protected from water and humidity.
The side pieces hide all of the screws that hold the live edge,
but I also accounted for the thickness of the glass
so it rests perfectly within a recessed area.
The panes also meet in the corner
in such a way that the top overlaps for a cleaner look.
I angled the cut on the pump reservoir to
encourage any potential drips to fall back into the water.
Although somewhat of an afterthought,
the side is removable to access the pump if needed, and it’s seamless.
Above this, I made sure to leave a gap for air circulation.
Although it would work even it was completely sealed off
condensation would form on the glass and block the view.
This design choice took advantage of the live edge boards,
which of course transition into a waterfall edge.
The plants were selected intentionally as well.
This will be lit primarily with ambient light,
and I could only use plants that will thrive in minimal light conditions.
Not only that, but other than adding water lost from evaporation
and occasionally trimming them,
the plants and the table, in general, won’t require any special care.
I’m not done, though.
I already know what some of you put in the comments.
“You should consider putting lights in the table.”
Not to worry, I did that as well.
I don’t know about you, but I think these color-changing
lights took the design to the next level.
I’ve been working on this for months now,
and it’s awesome to finally see it completed
and to share it with you.
From start to finish,
it was a logistical nightmare,
but I think it was worth the effort.
I can’t think of much else that would add this level of functional ambiance
to my office and hangout space.
This channel and the content
are dedicated to creating beautiful and functional pieces of nature art.
Designs that are actually intended to work.
I’ve made a lot of projects that display this sentiment,
but this may just be one of the most intricate to date.