Hi guys, welcome to TECHYDIY. In today's video, I'm going to make an infinity
mirror. It features diffused LED lighting and a
remote control, so that you can adjust the color. This is an easy to build
project using just a few hand tools; but before we get started, let's have a
quick look at how an infinity mirror works. It consists of a two-way mirror at
the front, a normal mirror at the back and lights in between. A two-way mirror
is a partially reflective mirror which means that it reflects some light and
allows the rest to pass through. The light bounces between the mirrors with
the two-way mirror allowing some of the light to pass through each time and this
creates a series of reflections with diminishing intensity, leading to the
illusion of the lights fading into the distance. Onto the tools, we're going to
use a hammer. A metal hacksaw, any size will do and some pliers. For the parts
we're going to need a deep picture frame. I'm using an a4 sized IKEA RIBBA.
A 3mm or one-eighth of an inch thick acrylic two-way mirror sheet.
A normal acrylic mirror sheet, again 3mm or one-eighth of an
inch thick and both of these mirrors should be sized to fit the picture frame.
For the LED lights, I've used a length of ws2812B programmable color LED tape.
This is normally supplied on a reel and can be cut to length at the marked
positions and to power the LEDs I'm using a controller and power supply.
Four 300 millimeter lengths of mini aluminium LED profile with diffused
covers and finally some nails or glacier points. Onto the build. To start with
we're going to dismantle the picture frame and remove the little metal tabs
and then we're going to fit the aluminium profile sections into the
picture frame. Two of the sections are the correct size the other two sections will
need to be cut to fit. The distance between the two sections is measured,
marked on the profiles, the profile sections are cut to length with the
hacksaw and the sharp edge is cleaned up with a file or sandpaper. To route the
LED cable through one of the corners, a slot is cut in the end of one long
profile section. The sharp edges are cleaned up and any damage to the surface
can be disguised with a black sharpie. Next the profile sections are
temporarily joined together with some low tack paper tape and test fitted
into the frame. Assuming it fits, the LED tape can now be fitted into the profile,
making sure to start with the end that plugs into the controller. The backing is
removed from the tape and it is then stuck into the profile.
The profile is fitted into the frame before cutting the LED tape to its final length.
The profile sections can now be carefully removed from the frame and the
diffused covers cut and fitted to the profile sections. Now is a good time to
check that the LEDs are working.
The two-way mirror is fit into the frame with the acrylic side
facing outwards and the foil side facing in. To tell which is which, you can
place a straightedge against each face. The side with a gap is the acrylic side
and the side without a gap is the foil side.
The LED profile is fitted, followed by the normal mirror and the back panel. The
back panel is secured in position with Glazier points. They're usually easy
enough to push in with a flat headed screwdriver or in this case I'm using a
flattened steel angle bracket. Sometimes they're a bit more difficult and you
need to give them a tap with a hammer. The back can be sealed with paper tape
to keep the dust out.
The controller is plugged in and secured to the back with double-sided adhesive tape;
and finally the power supply is plugged in. The only thing left to do now is turn
it on. I'll leave a link to the parts, tools and instructions in the video
description. Thanks for watching and see you again next time.