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We installed our underlayment and liner in our reservoir basin excavation.
But before we put the matrix boxes inside the hole,
we threw down some extra underlayment on top of the rubber liner, that way when we
put the reservoir cubes down there, it gives it a little bit of extra protection.
Now, we've back filled the sides, and locked everything into place, and we're ready for
the next step.
Let's talk about the pump vault.
[SOUND] On this large project, we used a culvert pipe as our pump vault.
It's a 18 inch culvert pipe.
What we'll do is we'll install our, our pumps inside here.
And an important factor for you to know is,
the bottom of this pump vault is about six to eight inches below these matrix boxes.
That way, when the water floods into the chamber, the water comes over and
the pumps are actually below the matrix cubes.
And that way they're always gonna stay flooded.
Now, in the bottom of the culvert pipe we have a, a bunch of holes drilled into
the sides, so the water can come, and pass into the tube, and not starve the pump.
One thing I wanna show, an important factor is, we're gonna have about six to eight
inches of gravel on top of here, and it gives it strength and more water volume.
So, I ran this, I ran this the top of the culvert past here, a little bit.
We'll install all of our gravel, and then I can cut the top of this, so
its above the gravel.
We'll put a large stone on top of here a flagstone, so
you can easily slide it on and off.
So, you can still service the pumps, but
the cool thing about this is when I have this extending above the gravel,
when I wanna do service, I don't have to move all the gravel back.
Otherwise, you know, if you had it too low the gravel would be falling in, and
I see that as a common made mistake.
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So, I want you to notice,
we ran our plumbing all the way from the top to the bottom, before we even got started.
Now, remember I told you we over-dug the sides here,
we're gonna place our stone in here, and that's where this pipes can sneak in,
right behind the stone, and when we back fill it's gonna cover it up.
It's gonna save us a lot of time and energy later on in the installation.
Halfway up the hill here, I, I installed a T, and we put a little extra pipe.
What that's gonna do is enable us to create another interesting water feature coming off
the side here, look like a little spring dripping out of the side of the hill.
Now, when we get up to the top of the hill, we have the three inch pipe.
We can split that up into two, or
three different spots where we can show the water coming out the sides in another
spring-like effect as well, so it's gonna be a really cool look.
We didn't use one continuous piece of liner from the top to the bottom.
And we did that for a reason.
It gives us some flexibility.
You're gonna see we're gonna do some interesting curves on this water feature.
So, it's nice to be able to have a liner come in one way,
and another liner come in another way.
Otherwise, you'd have to have a really wide liner to create those kinda curves.
One thing that you're gonna wanna know is, you'll see this terrace change right here.
This piece of liner comes up to the top of this terrace.
Now, if I bring the next piece of liner, and I overlap it down,
then we're not gonna have a leak because the water can't work its way back up.
So, you're looking in an ornamental backyard, and you're, ornamental pond in your backyard,
you're not gonna wanna have more than less than four to six inches of change of liner.
On a larger project like this, we're gonna go a good 12 to 18 inches of overlap cuz we're
gonna have a lot of water flow.
[SOUND] So, the next thing we have to do is we have to start building the waterfall, and
framing out all the spillways.
We're gonna work from the bottom to the top.
We're gonna bring in a special excavator with an attachment, so
we can push the large boulders out and reach all across the waterfall.
This is when the real fun begins.
We're gonna rock and roll.
I'll see you then.
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