hey guys retired at 40 thanks again for joining me on my dodge Promaster build
we're converting this into a camper if you haven't joined us in the previous
videos but everything's coming along nice I've put some seat swivels in I've
installed a back seat I've insulated the floor and put a
subfloor in so everything is flush mount I've insulated the side back walls
insulated the wheel wells I've added a bed in the back and today I'm going to
add a kitchen so my kitchen is gonna be pretty basic and I haven't totally
figured out how I'm gonna lay it out yet so I'm actually gonna frame it up first
and get my size of what I need to put in there and then see how to put everything
in and then I can box it in with a frame but I'm doing this the kitchen I'm doing
the two storage boxes above the wheel wells I'm going to do those all the same
way where I'm just starting to put a cleat on the wall and then I'll build
the frame around it and then I will box it in so I'm using a piece of countertop
that's 42 inches long and to me that's the most important part because it's a
it's actually a reclaimed piece of lumber
they've just been waiting for a good reason to use this and then I have a
sink that I bought at a flea market for $20 so I'm kind of just building this
around that I want to run it against this piece of structure right here and
then 42 inches brings me basically just past this little indent right here which
ideally we would but a piece of plywood up against here so I've made a mark
right here at 40 and a half inches so I need to cut a cleat to that size and it
fits in here real nice I'm actually gonna put it right up under this lip
that'll hold it together real nice I'm actually adding a window up here later
on so I don't know exactly how that's going to layout yet so I need to have
plenty of space to work with so what I'm gonna do is exactly what I did with the
bed if you haven't got the bed video I'll put a link in the description down
below but we're gonna hang a cleat with some 5/16 bolts because we're gonna
reuse these holes that are already drilled there they're used for the panel
that goes in here so we're gonna hang the cleat in the panel at the same time
as well as insulate this back wall I'm gonna mark right above where each of
these holes are up and I'm gonna follow that mark on to the cleat next I'm gonna
measure down to see how far each of these holes is from the top I'm guessing
they're all gonna be 3/4 so I'm going to take my mark that we marked from the
wall take a speed square and I'm gonna trace that line down and then I'm going
to trace the line down on the front mark 3/4 down and do that on all five of
these and that will give us our screw holes that will line up with the ones
that are already through the metal okay now I'm gonna take 7/8 paddle bit I'm
just gonna go down about a quarter of an inch and then I'm gonna take a 5/16
drill bit and I'm gonna punch these holes all the way through so drilling
those holes that allows a washer to fit down in the hole and then a two inch
5/16 screw will pop down through there it'll give you a flush fit when it's all
installed alright at this point our cleat is ready to be hung on the wall
but this panel will need to go under it so before we cover the panel up or
before we cover up this wall with a panel we need to insulate it real quick
so I'm gonna grab some insulation notice I'm not itching from head to toe and I'm
working with some insulation I actually bought the allergenic stuff and it was
about ten dollars extra but since it's about ninety degrees out right now and
I'm not itching and I'm working with insulation that's just about priceless
we're ready for our panel first I want to just eyeball this and make sure that
our screw holes are gonna fit in here so our panel is going to go up next it's
gotta line up with your same screw holes and the drill bit being the exact same
size as the screw or the bolt there's basically very little to none
for a room for error but that's a good thing my washer first and just you have
a little access hole right here just enough to get a couple fingers in
and then a washer and then a lock washer on top of that and then a bolt and
you're just gonna want to get it just so it starts to thread and then you want to
keep a magnet handy if you drop something or I should say when you drop
something if you need to use a half inch open end on the back side okay next I'm
gonna get my countertop cut and we're gonna set the countertop before we do
the framing so since this is angled on this side it's actually a perfect spot
for a sink on the right side and this will also allow the driver's seat to
recline and get past that point where it can actually sit back and still have a
kitchen in place so I've got this handmade sink that I picked up at a flea
market this thing is really really cool and I've been looking for a use for it
and this is gonna be perfect because the footprint of it will actually fit in
here and it's a nice compact sink so 42 is where I ideally want to be onna but
the end of the counter right up to this piece of plastic right here the plastic
molding and then I want 42 will actually keep us right at the edge of this piece
so I'm going to measure out 42 and hope that I am right
yes so my sink diameter that I want is 10
inches I found a bucket and just traced that so I'm gonna drill a pilot hole
first and then I can take a jigsaw and cut this out all right so I've got my
sink hole cut and I actually want to but the countertop up to this piece of
molding right here I had to notch out this right here just for this little
piece of frame so it fits smooth back into there only because we want to be
able to fit a 3/4 inch piece of plywood this is going to be a wall going all the
way down here for the box of the cabinet we want this to be able to fit under
here and fit on the side of the two by okay and then I put my countertop in
place next thing we're gonna do is figure out where our frame needs to go
so I'm gonna mark where are the 2x4 lands that's gonna be the edge of our
framing so you can see there's one mark theres the edge of the 2 by there's the
other mark at the other edge of the 2 by so that's the farthest that we can go
with our frame then I also marked where the 2x4 lands when it's sitting because
we can't go past that big line right there either so the next thing we need
to figure out is how our frame is gonna lay out so I'm using 1 by 2 pine stick
which should give us plenty of strength and it'll be lightweight and not bulky
and it won't take up a lot of inside room in the cabinet it's one and a half
inches wide so this whole line is gonna be one and a half inches wide all the
way down gonna come down here we're gonna mark out this other side which was
the end of the two by mark out an inch and a half on that one
all right and then I'm gonna go 3/4 off the front of the cabinet and then the
quarters off this side also and then each piece after I cut it I'm gonna line
it up and I'm using a staple gun I'm gonna do that for the whole thing so now
I just need to duplicate this one more time and we'll use that for the bottom
of the frame all right now we need to figure out how long to make our legs so
I'm gonna measure from the bottom so I've cut four at 28 and a quarter for
the legs now I'm just gonna nail them into this bottom frame we can slide this
under alright it's been a long winter but I am back to this this sat all
winter long and I've had the materials to finish this out and there's no excuse
for me not to do it now I bought some laminated birch plywood
I think birch looks really nice and it stains really well and I plan on using
quite a bit of it in here so it's 3/4 inch ply and I'm just gonna do this side
piece first I think I'm gonna liquid nails I'm gonna liquid nails and use a
12 gauge nailer and that should strengthen this whole cabinet up a whole
lot I'm actually gonna do the liquid nails on this side instead of on the
board all right then we're gonna squish this in here I'm going to put two nails
I'm going to square it up but I'm gonna put the longest nails that I can in the
gun to get it held in place
if you wanted so these two pieces right here are a bit tricky because they're
angled it's a 22 and a half angle I just used a skill saw this is actually just
sitting in here it's not actually nailed yet but it should snug up pretty well I
would use a table saw or if you're handy with a skill saw you can angle it and
you can get it to fit in there my next step is to put some doors on this thing
but the way I'm gonna set this up I'm actually gonna put my solar inverter
right here and then I want to have just a flip-down something-or-another for a
little extra storage and just some more access to the plumbing if I need it
later so before I get my doors on here's my solar inverter I'll do a separate
video for my solar setup because that's gonna be my next step after I get this
done i want my inverter to sit up flush mount
just like that into here and then our the doors will come under here so I need
to measure this out and then build a shelf across this whole thing so I've
got my layout figured out and I'm gonna I figured out where I'm gonna put my
water tanks I figured out where I'm gonna put my battery bank and I figured
out where I'm gonna put my inverter and I will still have quite a bit of storage
but if you want to find out how mine turns out you're gonna have to keep
following this build because first I have to get my plumbing in in my solar
system before I can finish doing all of my doors and shelves and all that stuff
so in the meantime this is retired at 40 remember to live life simple and we'll
catch you next week