♪ (Music) ♪
I want to amaze people
I used to watch DVDs of
the top 40 WT surfers over and over when I was younger
and had the dream of becoming someone as cool as they were
I would do anything to reach there
and surf with my heroes on the same stage
At Lennox
there are trainers and shapers here,
the waves are good, and there's a lot of great surfers
it's a very good environment for surfers
When I first came to Australia, I was about 12 or 13
and I was learning English from ABC
I was dropped here all of sudden and the language barrier was great
I don't know how I survived
But it's fun. I've got lots of friends here
just hanging with everybody, surfing. I became really close with Luke and Zac
Steve, the father of this family, asked me if I want to stay at their place
This is where I stay with the family who's taking care of me
They all live upstairs here and next to that
and here's my room. I sleep here
I think my relationship really has been like a mentor
We speak a lot when he is here, about his program
and I manage athletes as well
so I've got a good understanding of what they need to do
to potentially get to the top
Yeah, more like a friend relationship Surf together, play together, train together
Just like any friend I have here
Small, strong, long hair, and rips!
They talk to me a lot, especially Luke
Zak is more of a "cool" type of guy
but because they come talk to me a lot
I learnt quite a lot of English from them
Whenever I'm back here, it feels like my second home
I go out to the sea 340 days a year
On my days off, I've really got nothing to do
When it's day off, because I've always liked drawing as a pastime
I've been asking people who spray boards to design and draw my board
and I thought I can start drawing myself
then I began to draw on boards
I first met Hiro when we was twelve or thirteen
He came and stayed at my place in Australia with us, by himself
which is a big journey for a little kid to do
I've been using Emery boards for five years
Each board cannot be made exactly the same
so I discuss thoroughly with the shaper about the small details
It really affects surfing a lot
when a nice board has been made I get on it and it feels amazing
in that sense, I value communication very much
When I do Hiroto's boards, we try and add these little touch to the boards
He likes having that little sharp edges in the tail and the nice pinch down rails here
so his boards are made to how he want to do it
his boards are just improving, improving everytime
Since the first time Hiro started training
physically he has improved significantly
Although technically very good being younger
now he has developed power in his body, stronger
I do different training everyday
I do weight training and paddle training
to build muscle for the instantaneous power
that's necessary for
explosive power for turns
He's a good thinker and tries hard
Sometimes maybe he can be more crazy
and try things crazier
and maybe get different results
I'm doing this because I want to win
I'm pushing and pushing my motivation
and I'm getting closer to my dream, which is WT
I want to join WT maybe after 2 or 3 years later
Surfing--
Surfing is --
for me, surfing is my life
it's my dream
I want to be out on the ocean forever