From SwissWatchExpo… Spotlight on: the Rolex Submariner and GMT-Master.
Telling the difference between the iconic watches.
The Rolex Submariner, at left, and GMT-Master, at right, are two of the most coveted luxury
sports watches. To the untrained eye, it may seem like there isn’t much separating the
two watches.
However, they do have differences, which go beyond looks. Let’s take a closer look at
these two classics, and discover what makes each of them, unique.
The Rolex Submariner and GMT-Master were both launched by Rolex in the mid-1950s and have
well-documented histories.
The Submariner was introduced in 1953, at a time when diving and sea exploration were
gaining traction.
It was the second breakthrough in watch waterproofness, following the invention of the first waterproof
watch, the Rolex Oyster, in 1926.
Meanwhile, the Rolex GMT-Master was launched in 1954 as an aviation watch. It was equipped
with a bi-color, 24-hour bezel to help pilots read time in two different timezones, in just
a glance.
In 1983, Rolex launched the GMT-Master II, this time equipped with a 24-hour hand, a
thicker case, and larger crown guards. As Rolex continued to modify the watches over
the decades, these changes have made the Sub and GMT-Master II look similar.
To point out the differences, we’ll check out the latest stainless steel versions of
the two: the Submariner ref 116610 and the GMT-Master II ref 116710. Let’s start with
the bezel!
The Submariner bezel is marked in dive watch fashion: it shows 60-minute graduations,
broken down into 5-minute increments, with numbers for each ten minutes.
You will notice too that the first 15 minutes have one-minute tick marks indicated. These
were made for divers to monitor their time underwater accurately.
The GMT-Master II, meanwhile, is marked by 24 one-hour increments, with numbers marking
the even hours. This works together with the 24-hour hand in telling time in a second time
zone.
Speaking of the hands, the Submariner only has three - the hour, minute, and seconds
hands.
Meanwhile, the GMT-Master has an additional 24-hour hand. The hand is distinctively colored
green, and displays the “home” reference time in a first time zone, which can be read
when used in conjunction with the bezel.
Both watches are fitted with the same generation Oyster bracelet. The center links of the GMT-Master
II have a high-gloss polish, as you’ll see here.
Meanwhile, the center links on the Submariner’s bracelet have a satin, more understated finish.
Moreover, only the Submariner is outfitted with Rolex’s Glidelock adjustment system,
which lets divers expand the band to about 20 mm. This allows for a secure fit over diving
suits.
Aesthetics aside, what really makes the Submariner and GMT-Master II different are their movements.
The Rolex Submariner ref 116610 is powered by Caliber 3135. The automatic, three-hand
movement with a date complication was introduced in 1988. It quickly became Rolex’s main
movement for its men’s watches.
Since the GMT-Master has a 4th hand to display a second time zone, it requires a different
movement. It is powered by Caliber 3186, which controls both the date complication and the
independently adjustable hour hand.
The Rolex Submariner and GMT-Master II may have a very similar, ruggedly elegant aesthetic,
but they are actually very different when it comes to their intended purpose and features.
If you really have to choose between the two, it’s best to go with the one that fits your
needs and lifestyle.
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