Hey, Sam here with JBugs.com
Day 3 of wiring this Super Beetle...
I'm going to make it out, I just know it...
Really, we will make it out but we have quite a bit still left to go.
We'll begin this video by installing the dash ground link.
We have a lot of gauges that we'll have to ground out later but for now, we'll start by following the standard layout as closely as possible.
The ground daisy chain of wires has a 1/10 terminal end at one side and the next terminal in line has a locking tab.
We'll start by installing this end into our fuse box relay deck, at slot 11.
This will be the ground for out flasher relay.
We'll run the 1/10 connector leg of the wire, across the back of the dash, and out of the hole in the dash for the brake warning light.
Back to the leg from the fuse box relay, the next terminal in the wire would plug into the chassis ground tab on the speedometer.
We'll plug it into the ground terminal on our speedometer.
The next terminal plugs into the chassis ground tab and the last end plugs into our emergency flasher hazard switch.
Now, we'll get to work on the various wires for the flasher relay, hazard, and turn signal switch.
We start by installing one end of the 27 inch long white wire into the relay deck, at slot 15.
The end that has the locking tab is inserted with the tab lining up with the notch in the slot.
Then we grab the blue to black/white/green to blue/red wire and look for the terminal at the blue to black/white/green connection.
It has a locking tab and will install into the relay deck at slot 12.
The black/white/green to blue/red connection will plug into the turn signal switch wire.
This turn signal switch wire would also be black/white/green, on our original switch, but on our aftermarket switch it is solid black.
We shorten the wire by cutting it, stripping the end off, and crimping on a new terminal end.
It will then plug into a shrouded connector.
Since we're using separate LED turn signal indicators, we cut the blue/red wire off the black/white/green
and we plug the black/white/green wire into the turn signal switch wire as we mentioned previously.
The blue/red wire would have gone to the turn signal indicator on the stock speedometer.
The blue and white wires are routed along the back side of the dash, and then connected to the hazard switch.
The blue wire connects to the 49A terminal.
The white wire installs at the 49 terminal.
Then we install the loose long black/white wire to the L terminal.
The black/green wire goes to the R terminal.
And the long red wire with a plastic shroud connects to the 30 terminal, the shrouded side connects to the switch.
The 26 inch long black wire connects to the 15 terminal on the switch and then we'll install the switch on the dash.
As we mentioned in our last video, we normally leave all the switches out until after the electrical system has been tested.
The black and the red wires, from the hazard switch, are routed across the back of the dash and to the front of the fuse box.
The black wire plugs into the third terminal from the right, the red plugs into the fourth terminal from the right.
Now we can hook up all the black/white and all the black/green wires for the turn signals.
We have the wires coming from the main harness, the front harness, the turn signal switch, and the hazard switch.
All these wires will be routed up along the back side of the dash, cut to length as needed,
the ends will be stripped off the wires we cut, and new terminal ends will be crimped on.
The LED indicator wires are crimped along with our turn signal switch wires that we twisted together earlier.
The right side connects to the black/green wire, the left side connects to the black/white wire.
All the black/white wires are connected with a four-way quad connector.
And we do the same thing with all the black/green wires.
Next, we install the fuel tank sending unit harness which has a black wire and a brown wire.
The brown wire hooks up to a ground tab on the chassis.
The black wire will plug into the S terminal on the fuel gauge, which is for the sending unit connection.
In we had a stock speedometer, we would plug in the blue white wire to the high beam indicator on the speedometer and then to the high beam terminal on the fuse box.
We have an LED high beam indicator though, so we shorten that wire and plug it into the terminal instead.
We'll wire the wiper motor and switch next and start by connecting the dash power wire assembly.
A black jumper wire, with 5 terminal ends, and a green section.
The green section, that has the black jumper wire with a 1/10 terminal end, plugs into the 30 terminal on the wiper switch.
Then we'll grab the loose black, black/yellow, black/red, brown/white, and doubled brown wires and plug them into the motor.
The brown/white plugs into the 31B on the motor and the switch.
One end of the doubled brown plugs into the 31 terminal on the motor,
the next end goes to the switch,
and the last goes to the ground tab on the body.
The black/red plugs into the 53A on the motor and the switch.
The black goes to the 53 terminals on both the motor and the switch.
The black/yellow attaches to the 53B on both.
Then the wiper switch is installed into the dash or you can leave it out for testing later.
The black 1/10 connection, from the green wire, goes to the brake light warning switch hole.
The opposite end of the green wire is routed along the back of the dash and to the front of the fuse box and plugged into the terminal at the second fuse from the right.
The jumper wires from here would normally go to power the speedometer indicator bulbs and the gas gauge on the stock speedometer.
We will follow the stock lead and we'll run the jumper wires to power the terminals on out tachometer and our oil pressure gauge.
We'll expand this harness later when we wire up the power for our gauges.
Since I finally received a shipment, and now have an open barrel terminal end with a locking tab,
I can route the brown/white wire from the turn signal switch over to the relay deck on the fuse box.
The wire is cut to length, the end is stripped, the new terminal end is crimped on, and it's installed into the number 25 slot.
Next, we'll prepare our master cylinder harness by installing new wire boots and plugs.
This isn't an essential step but it does help to clean up and simplify the installation under the car.
I use a pair of needle nose pliers to open up the end of the boot.
Then, the wires can be pushed into the boot and some silicone spray lube helps to slide the boot over the harness.
The boot is pulled back a bit so that the plastic plug at the end can be installed.
At the back of the plug, the red wire plugs into the top slot,
the black/red wire plugs into the right slot,
and the black wire plugs into the left slot.
We follow the same method for both sides of the harness.
Once both boots and plugs are in place, the harness is fed from the bottom side of the car,
up to the gas tank well, then through the brace on the body next to the brake fluid reservoir lines.
Down below, we plug the wires into the switches on the master cylinder.
Then, back up in the trunk, the brake harness is plugged into the front harness.
The red wires plug into the reds, the blacks plug into the black, and the black/reds plug into the black red wires.
At the front left inner fender well, we'll hook up our new horn temporarily as our bumper brackets aren't in place.
Horn wire boots are installed over the wires, using a pair of needle nose pliers to open the boots so the wires can be slid through.
Then the wires are attached to the terminals on the horn, the position doesn't matter.
Once the wires are in place, the boots are slid over and we'll take a break here until next time where we'll try and wrap things up as much as we can.
Thanks for watching!
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