Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today I'm going to show
you how to replace just the boot on your half shaft on our 2016 Polaris Ranger
900XP. Just replacing the boot is a whole lot cheaper than having to replace
the entire shaft. So let's head over to the tool table and discuss the tools in
the parts you're going to need to pull this off.
Welcome to the tool table. This is going to be a skill level 2 but it's not
going to be that difficult. Let's go over some of the tools that you're going to
need to pull this off. On the standard side, you're just going to need basic
sockets ranging from a 15 up to a 27. It's gonna need a decent ratchet, a
couple of different torque wrenches, and a breaker bar. Also want to pick up a
dead blow hammer, so there's a couple of things we have to knock loose. Pliers?
Just a set of needlenose. Now the one specialty tool that you'll need to pick
up is a CV boot tool. You will not be able to pull it off if you don't have
one of these. Now as far as our parts, if you would reference our exploded parts
diagrams, that's gonna give you a very clear picture of what you need to order
to get this particular project done. So once you have your tools and your parts
together I can go over there and show you how to do it, so let's go. Before we
lift it up, let's go ahead and break the lug nuts loose. Alright guys, here's what
we're up against. What we have is a cut on our outer boot. Now if you catch it
soon enough, you can just replace the boot without having to replace the whole
drive axle providing there's no intrusion of water or dirt inside the,
what's left of the boot. So our plan of attack, what we want to do, is go
ahead and take off this cotter pin, this castle nut, this upper shock mount on the
upper a-arm, then the lower ball joint, then we should be able to lift the
assembly up enough to get the drive axle out. Alright well start by getting out
this cotter pin, and then we're gonna go after this castle nut. I'm gonna use an
impact. If you don't have an impact, just have somebody jump inside the vehicle,
hold the brakes, and that should be enough to get it pulled off. Once you've
got the castle nut off there are actually two beveled washers that come
off and you just want to make sure when you put it back together that you have
the bevel going in. Alright next, let's go for that lower ball joint. Leave the bolt
in place for right now and let's pull that lower mount for the shock. Now let's
drop out lower ball joint.
See if that gives enough distance to pull out our CV axle. What I'm gonna do,
let's just use a strap to hold it up and out of the way. Alright guys, since
we're only doing our outer boot, I'm actually gonna leave it still inside the
front gear case. So what we want to do next is go ahead and remove both of our
bands and then slide the boot and that outer joint off. Now you can cut these
bands, or you can just squeeze them and get them to release. And then that point
that I'm squeezing together was right here because believe it or not that one
little distance can press back together will allow it to pop off. So we could
actually reuse these if we needed to. But the kit actually comes with new
clamps as well as the grease that you need to put inside the joint. Now she
just slides right off. And I can tell there was no water or dirt intrusion
into this joint, so it's gonna be good to go to go back together.
But I do want to scoop out this existing grease because I want to put new stuff
in there. I mean, why not? When you're cleaning this up, you want to make sure
you get all the grease out of this outer edge because we want that to be clean
and dry so the new boot really gets seated in there. I don't want to leave
grease in there and allow it to slip off when you were at a really tight turn
angle, because that's what would happen. And that's what we don't want all right
now. Let's go ahead and get our clamp on and our boot. Go ahead and push it up out
of the way. Now, we want to take our grease, fill it inside of the boot but
don't let it get on that edge because that's the part that needs to be in
contact with this side of the joint. Make sure this inner spline is flat with the
surface so it'll go directly on to the end of the shaft itself. Now make sure
you're lined up on the splines and you can tell that because I can turn the
half shaft. Then we want to just tap it down till it bottoms out. Bring your boot
down until it reaches into that groove. And now, we can go ahead and work on the
clamps and we're going to use our clamp tool to grab it from right here to right
here. That's the distance. And then we need to pull those two points together -
you hear it click. And you have to be careful with the smaller one because
it'll try to cramp up on you and we don't want that to happen. There's the
click, and then let it go. And there it is. Do the same thing for the large one.
Alright, this time we're grabbing it from here to
here. And as I'm guiding it up I'm gonna keep my thumb pressed to where it'll
catch from here to back here. Once it's compressed on.
There it is. And release. Now let's just get it put back together. Let's start by
getting some grease back onto our spline because as you notice that came apart
rather simply. And if you don't grease this and it gets
rusted up, that can be a potential nightmare down the road. Okay,
the splines are greased up, let's go ahead and release it from our little
strap up here. Get it out of the way. Now, let's feed it back through. We'll go
ahead and put in that upper shock mount and that will hold our A arm in position
so we can get that little ball join in.
Get it lined back up. We're gonna snug both of these back down
and then torque each one to 42 foot pounds. With those two torqued down, let's go ahead and get on our two
beveled edge washers for our castle nut. And then we're going to torque this to
80 foot-pounds. And the way I'm going to do that is I'm going to have somebody
hop up in the cab and hold the brakes.
Next let's get our cotter pin back in place. The way Polaris does it from the
factory, they actually just bend both edges back up and over. At this point
guys, all we need to do is remount the tire, drop the unit down, and then torque
the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds. Alright guys, that wraps this one up and
you just saved yourself a bunch of money doing it yourself instead of taking it
to the dealership. Well listen, if you need any other parts for your machine
why don't you come see us at Partzilla.com and we can get you taken
care of. Have any questions or comments? Leave them in the section below and I'll
do my best to answer. Till next time we just want to say thank you for shopping
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day.