- Today we're gonna take a look at how to use
the Hanna phosphate checkers along with GFO to monitor
and control the phosphate levels in your reef tank.
(upbeat music)
Hi, this is Wayland from Marine Depot,
and thanks for tuning in.
Along with nitrate, phosphate is one of the top contaminants
that most aquarists are actively
trying to get out of their tank.
The main method of phosphate export,
as with many other things, is to simply
keep up with your water changes.
Unfortunately, it's pretty easy
to get behind on your regular maintenance,
and for those of us with heavily stocked tanks
regular water changes may not be enough on their own.
As phosphate levels in your tank rise,
the zooxanthellae in your corals can become
overstimulated and start to brown out,
which is typically not the aesthetic
most reefers are looking for.
There area number of test kits on the market
that will let you check your phosphate levels,
but some of my favorites are
the Hanna Instruments phosphate checkers.
Hanna offers two different checkers,
the low range phosphate and the marine
ultra-low range phosphate colorimeter,
both of which operate similarly and are easy to use.
These will let you know exactly what
kind of phosphate levels you are dealing with.
Check out our videos on phosphates in the links below
to get a better idea of what these levels can indicate.
The standard low range phosphate checker
will be more than enough for most aquarists.
The ultra low range checker,
having a smaller window of measurement
and a higher degree of accuracy
means that the ULR checker will be better
for those who are really trying to draw a beat
on their phosphates and get their levels
down to zero, primarily SPS growers.
Using the Hanna phosphate checker is pretty simple.
The first step is to turn the checker on
by pressing the center button.
Once the screen is flashing at C.1
you are ready to get testing.
Fill the cuvette with 10 millimeters of water from your tank
and place it in the checker and close it.
Press the button and wait until the screen reads at C.2.
Remove the cuvette and add the appropriate reagent to it
and shake it for two minutes.
Once all the powder is dissolved,
place the cuvette back in the checker
and hold the button until a timer appears on the display.
Once the timer runs down,
the phosphate level will be displayed.
The only difference in using a standard
phosphate checker versus the phosphorus ULR
is that each checker has its own reagent
to add to the water during testing.
After conducting your tests it is important
to rinse out your cuvette using RODI water
and dry it using a microfiber towel.
Because the checker uses lye to conduct a test,
any sort of water mark on your cuvette
can interfere and affect your results.
Also, make sure to check the expiration date
on your reagents to make sure they are still good.
One of the most common ways to deal
with phosphate issues is to use GFO.
GFO, or granular ferric oxide,
will bind the phosphates in your water to it
as they pass through the media.
Because of this, the GFO needs
to have sufficient water flow.
There are a couple ways that you can achieve
the necessary flows in your system.
The easiest way is to simply fill a filter media bag with it
and place the bag in a high flow area
of your sump or filter.
Keep in mind that water takes the path of least resistance,
so since you aren't actively
channeling the water through your GFO
it's gonna be a bit less effective
at absorbing your phosphates.
Also remember that GFO tends to have fairly small grains,
so it's important to put it into a media bag
with a small enough mesh size to prevent it
from spreading throughout your tank.
The second way to effectively employ GFO
is through the use of a media reactor.
For this method we'll need a basic media reactor,
a feed pump, some tubing, and it's usually a good idea
to keep a ball valve on hand as well.
First thing's first, we need to open up
the reactor and remove the top sponge.
Just fill the reactor with the appropriate amount of GFO
and replace the top sponge and lid.
GFO can certainly have different filtration capacities
depending on the quality of it,
and different tank sizes will certainly
require different volumes of it
for it to be utilized safely and effectively.
To figure out exactly how much GFO you need to use,
the best practice is simply follow the instructions
on the specific GFO you're using.
However, we do have a calculator on our website,
which we'll link below to help you out.
Once your reactor's back together,
attach your tubing to your inlet and outlets.
In terms of pumps, the required flow rate, again,
will vary depending on your system.
If your pump is too strong it can grind
the GFO down onto itself
and it can blow out of the reactor into your tank.
If your pump isn't strong enough,
the GFO won't move enough and it will fuse
to itself over time, creating a solid block.
What we really need to be aiming for
is a slow sort of simmer where you can see most of it,
if not all of the GFO, moving slowly and gently,
just enough so it doesn't fuse.
I will usually try to get a pump
that may be just slightly stronger
than what I think I might need
and tune it down to the desired rate using a ball valve.
The last thing to keep in mind is that GFO is pretty dusty.
Before you start running the reactor in your tank
place the outlet line into a bucket
and run the reactor until the water coming out runs clear.
Doing so will ensure that you won't
shoot out the dust into your tank,
and it also gives you a chance to dial in
your pump's flow rate before using it in your tank.
NYOS has recently released a TORQ series of reactors,
which eliminates the need for a pump and tubing.
Once the reactor is filled,
it just needs to be placed into your sump.
The pump integrate into the base
of the reactor will draw the water in,
and the flow rate can be easily
changed by simply turning the body.
Innovative Marine also offers a MiniMax media reactor,
which is a great alternative for those all-in-one tanks.
Once you start using your GFO,
it is important to continue testing your water
as this is the best way to tell when your GFO's exhausted.
Try taking water from around the outlet of your pump,
or test the effluent directly.
Doing so will give you the best idea
of when it's time to switch out your GFO.
As with everything in this hobby,
everyone's system is different.
Each person's tank is gonna exhaust GFO at a different rate.
Typically the media will last between one to two months,
but these rates will vary widely
depending on the individual's phosphate level.
Testing your tank regular can be a hassle,
but we know it's one of those things
that we have to do to maintain a beautiful reef.
Thankfully, Hanna has made this chore a bit easier.
I will let you know what measure
to take to effectively treat your tank.
We also have a video on using Hanna checkers
in conjunction with dosing two-part solutions,
and we would love it if you checked it out.
I hope you found this video helpful,
but if you have any further questions
about GFO or other filtering media
feel free to let us know in the comments below.
Remember to like and subscribe,
and as always, take care and enjoy the reef keeping journey.
(upbeat music)