Hi everyone Angela here. In this video I'm going to show you another method to make this fabric hair
bun maker and holder. You may have seen my first two methods, but this one is completely different
with an outer trim made of binding and a really easy way to create a center opening.
Again it's a great way to use up small pieces of scrap fabric. It makes a wonderful gift and
along with Scrunchies, you can add this item to your hair accessories business.
You can use any fabric that you like. You can make this with just one fabric or use fabric
for the main piece and a different fabric for the trim. If you don't want to make your trim
you can use ready-made folded bias binding. Ideally, it should measure three ¾" or 2cm
wide. If you can't find that, you can use 1' or 2.5 cm wide.
But no wider than that. I'll be using my wide quilting ruler with the silicon
template grips on the back so that it doesn't slide around when I cut my fabric.
A small grid ruler and a measuring tape. A rotary cutter. My favorite Kai scissors. Thread snippers.
A vanishing marking pen. Pins and fabric clips. I'm also going to use a few extra long 2"
or 5 cm long pins. You can use either 19 gauge or 16 gauge craft or hobby wire .
A pair of needle nose pliers. Some cloth tape that you can easily rip and a cup or a mug or something
to trace out a nice wide curve. You can find links for all the tools I use in the description below .
Place your fabric right sides together with the selvage edges even at the bottom .
Then cut away those selvedge edges. Never use them in your projects. Then cut your pieces
14" or 35.5 cm long by 4" or 10 cm wide .
2" or 5 cm up from the bottom, draw a line right through the center of the fabric. Then
mark 4.5" (11.5cm) in from each side . This will mark out our 5" center opening.
If you need to, place pins through those marks.
Start by back tacking, stitch to the first mark where the pin is, and back tack again. And then
we're going to skip over the section between the pins. We're not going to sew this section.
And then back tack at the second mark, stitch to the other side, and finish with a back tack again.
Now remove the two pins and lift up the top layer so that you're putting wrong sides of
the fabric together matching the long edges. Lift your fabric, lay it down, pull out the
edges so that you can see the center opening and then press that center seam nice and flat .
If you want you can edge stitch around the entire opening but it's not necessary.
I'm just going to reinforce each end by sewing a few short stitches back and forth.
Now lift your fabric to match all the short ends together .
Then use your cup or whatever you have to draw a nice curve right into each corner.
Holding all the layers securely together, cut those
curves making sure not to cut your stitching in the center.
While still folded in half, cut a little notch through the center on both sides of the fabric.
To figure out how much binding I need to make, I'm going to measure around the outer
perimeter of the fabric and add a little bit more. So this measures about 33"
so I'll need to make about 35" or 89 cm of binding. To make the bias binding ,
I first want to straighten up the bottom edge of my fabric and square it up with the selvage edge.
Just line up the ruler with the selvage edge and trim the bottom.
Next, place the 45 degree line that's marked on the ruler along the bottom edge of the fabric.
Follow the outer edge of that ruler and cut about 18" along the bias of the fabric.
Turn the fabric around so the bias is facing you and then cut two strips that are
1.5" wide or 4cm. I'm joining two strips together to save fabric.
Stack your strips together and cut away the selvage edges from the ends.
Flip the top strip over matching the diagonal edges again and then just slide it down until
the straight edge is about ¼" or 6mm from the diagonal edge.
And then pin it together if you need to. Next, stitch from corner to corner using a ¼" or 6mm
seam allowance. Back tacking at the start and finish of the seam.
Press that seam open flat and trim off those little corners from the sides.
On one end of the strip fold in half lengthwise and press down about 6 or 7".
Open up flat again and then fold each side
in towards the center leaving a very tiny gap in the middle.
And then press down about 6" again. Now of course you can use a bias tape maker but if
you don't have one, I'm just going to show you a little trick to make it the width that you need.
Push a long pin into your ironing board cover about a 1/4" in front of the
binding strip and then out just in front of the fold. Go across the width of the binding
and then push your pin in just on the other side of the fold and out of the cover again.
Now repeat this step about 4 or 5" across the binding.
Place an iron in between making sure not to touch any plastic on the pins.
Gently pull the binding through while guiding the sides evenly with your other hand to
keep that gap in the middle. If you're enjoying this video, make sure to LIKE, SHARE, SUBSCRIBE,
and Leave a COMMENT below. Now we need to fold and press all of the binding along the center
but we just want to leave the front slightly narrower than the back like this.
Place the front join of the binding together with the bottom notch in the center of the fabric
and then loosely measure around with the binding until you get to the notch on the other side.
And then just cut that end of the binding straight across.
This is where we start the stitching. Pin it if you need to.
Now you can attach the binding all around by sewing through all the layers in one go,
but it can be a little difficult so I'm going to show you in two steps.
First open up your binding and fold the short edge over about ⅜" or 1cm.
Then match the folded edge to the notch at the side. Now when we stitch the binding to the fabric
we're not going to stitch right in that crease, but just a tiny little bit over to the right of it.
Make sure that your edges at the side are even and lined up.
Start your stitching by back tacking and then stitch right beside that crease.
As I'm stitching, I'm pulling and stretching the bias binding just a little bit. You really don't
want to stretch it too much. For the binding to sit flat around the curve of the fabric,
we're going to have to cut little notches along the edge of the binding.
Cut the notches about ½" apart and about halfway towards the crease.
Make sure to continue matching the edges at the side when you're sewing around the curve.
When you come around to this straight area, you don't have to cut any notches
but you will again for all the other curves.
Keep lightly stretching and matching your edges and making sure there aren't any pleats while
you're sewing. Now some of you may be joining this with a bias binder attachment, but if you have
any other tricks and tips for attaching binding, please leave them in the comments section below.
When getting close to the start again, I like to clean off the threads.
From the fold, we want to cut the binding end with a 3/4" or 2cm overlap.
Line up the creases again. Continue stitching and back tack to finish.
Lift the ends of the binding together so that the fold is straight across.
We need to keep the section in the center as an opening.
We'll hold the sides in place by doing a few stitches to the right of that outer crease.
This way when we turn the binding over, those little stitches aren't going to show.
Taking a look at the curve again, see how the notches open up to sit flat. We need to cut notches on
the other side of the binding. So wherever you made your first set of notches, just mirror it and cut
on the other side. Again, about halfway towards the fold and then just repeat for all the other curves.
Now when the other side of the binding is folded over the fabric,
that folded edge should just cover the original stitch line. Put a pin through
all the layers just beside the fold, exactly where you'll be edge stitching the binding ,
and you can see that the stitching is going to catch the edge on the other side beautifully.
Remember that the back is slightly bigger than the front, but by the time you turn it over it'll
take up some of the excess. Now pin or clip the binding all around if you need to. I like to pin
so that I can see exactly where the stitching is going to be and it really doesn't take that long.
Now when you're edge stitching, should you completely miss the edge of the binding on the
other side like this, it's not the end of the world. It'll still hold. It just won't look quite as nice.
Start the stitching just before this folded opening,
and the edge of my binding should just hit the inside of my presser foot as a guide.
Continue stitching checking that the fold just covers the original stitch line.
You can get really creative by using different fabrics for each side
and also using a variety of trims,
Back tack well at the end of your stitching. Trim your threads and you can see that the stitching
has caught the edge on the other side nicely. Now give it a quick press and flatten out those curves.
For the wire, you can use either a 19 gauge or a 16 gauge that's a little bit heavier. For this video,
I'm going to use the 16 gauge because I used the 19 in my other two videos. Pull out a nice long length
and then use your needle nose pliers to turn and squeeze the ends so that it's round and flat.
Then rip a piece of tape about ½" or 1 cm wide and wrap it around the
end just a couple of times keeping it flat. Cut it and save the other piece for the other end.
Now clip that to the side and just measure the wire around the outside edge of the fabric.
We want to overlap the ends by about 3 or 4".
Cut it with your needle nose pliers and then turn and tape the ends as before.
Insert one end through that folded opening and keep threading in until the other end
of the wire disappears into the fabric and both ends are well away from the opening.
To make a hair bun, slip your hair through the center opening, flip it once and slide it
down about halfway down your hair. Turn it under several times until it's snug against your head
and bring the ends of the fabric together. Twist the ends into a bow and this will keep your hair
neatly in place.
Thanks again for watching. Be sure to check out my other videos and to LIKE, SHARE, SUBSCRIBE and turn on ALL of your NOTIFICATIONS. Until next time, Happy Sewing!