Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to replace the rear brake shoes on our 2003 Honda Rancher
350 Tm.
Pretty simple procedure, let me get this thing lifted up, get that rear right tire off, and
I'll show you how to get it done.
Alright guys, this is going to be a skill level two, but just barely a two, so don't
be afraid of this.
Let's go over some of the tools that you're going to need.
Well, basically, you just need an 8, a 17, and a 30 mm socket.
A decent ratchet, breaker bar possibly, and a big torque wrench.
A good pair of pliers, a dead blow hammer, and a couple of pry bars or a large screwdriver.
Now if you would, reference our parts diagrams because it's going to show you exactly how
things come apart and more importantly how they go back together.
It's going to give you the part numbers that you're going to need to rebuild.
So, once you've got that together, and your tools assembled, I can show you how to get
it done.
Alright we've got her lifted up, we've got the rear tire off, and it starts off by just
getting this cotter pin out of the way.
We're going to get off this axle nut.
And this hub will come off and then after that we can take off this outer shield which
encases the inner hub.
Well that actually looks fantastic.
This is as good as it gets.
this looks practically new.
Get this hub off, we need to make sure our brakes are as loose as they can go.
Here's where you need to be careful.
This back plane right here is actually pretty thin believe it or not, so you don't want
to just cram it in there and push as hard as you can, because if you don, you're going
to snap this.
Guarantee you that.
We're just gonna get an edge under either side and just walk it off.
That's all she needs.
Now we're looking at the brake shoes themselves.
If you activate the brakes on your machine and nothing is going on, chances are they're
not going to look like this.
I mean this-- these are in really good shape.
See all the surface area it's got here?
These are practically brand new.
Compare them to the new set.
But if yours are worn out, it would be all the way down to this aluminum sub-straight
right here.
Another thing you want to check is the actual hub.
What will typically happen is it'll rust and you'll get an edge built up in here and then
you'll start to see pitting throughout this surface area,
I mean the only thing I can see wrong with these pads is there's just a little bit of
glazing, really not that big of a deal.
But hey, I'm here to show you how to put on a new set, so that's what I'm going to do.
So let me grab these, we'll get this pulled apart, and we'll get them swapped out.
Alright to get these off you just have two cotter pins that pivot towards the front of
the machine.
Now, spread them apart a little bit and start sliding them towards you.
And there you go.
they are off.
Now, what we need to do is get a drip pan over here, get some brake cleaner, and we're
going to clean all this up and then put it back together.
I wanted to point out something while we were here before we get those new shoes installed.
This little threaded area you see right there, there's a bolt on the other side.
So if you've been out in pretty deep water for an extended period of time and you come
out and your brakes are kinda squishy and they were working before, what you need to
do is open this up, let it drain, and then I'd probably leave it out for a while, I mean
as long as you're not riding the vehicle and let it air out a little bit.
Because this'll let all the water drain out of it if in fact you did get water in it.
Alright, what I'm checking here now is just this seal.
And honestly, it looks to be in pretty good shape.
It's still pliable, you can compare it to a new one.
It feels pretty much the same.
If yours is cracked or doesn't have a pliable feel to it, go ahead and push it out with
a screwdriver on the backside using these holes.
When you're pressing it back in, that edge right there you want it to be just about even
with the metal part right here.
Like this one has been done.
Like I said, this one looks to be in good shape,
where this comes in contact with the outer hub here, we want that to be as clean as possible.
Don't want any sand or grit or dirt in there.
What we are going to do is take some grease and go ahead and pack these areas right here.
We basically want to fill it up inside there all the way around and then right up until
this edge right here.
So when that goes in, it gives it some lubrication.
Go all the way around.
As far as our other housekeeping, I need to go ahead and clean up this hub because that's
where that seal is going to ride.
Right on that surface.
Make sure there's no dirt inside those splines.
If there is make sure you pull it towards you and not force it in there.
Now, let's go ahead and start putting it back together.
Take a little bit more grease and put it on these two pivot points, especially now if
you look real close there's a channel where you see where it steps down.
That's where you want to get most of your grease.
Now, let's go ahead and get the brakes wiggled on there.
I prefer to do it with the springs already on.
You just basically just walk them on.
A little bit of a tap.
There we go.
Now we can get that outer plate on.
And those two cotter pins that hold it where they pivot.
Before we put this on, go back to my grease again and just put a light coat on this O-ring.
Just make sure you don't dab any onto your brake shoes.
Just put a little bit more grease on the splines because we're about to install the brake drum.
Now we can put on this outer cover.
Alright, not I love using these things to take things apart.
Don't use them to put them together.
It'll strip that out before you can even blink.
Get those snugged down.
Now we can go ahead and get this hub in place.
Get a little bit more grease.
Make sure every surface has at least a light coat on it.
Now be careful.
There's a seal to the outside.
Make sure it's still in there and it's not broken or anything.
Alright.
We're gonna get our castle nut back on.
Want to go ahead and tighten up our foot pedal brake because we're going to actually have
to use the brakes to set the torque on this.
When you're adjusting these, they're kinda cupped and you'll notice it kinda rides up
and then it goes back down.
When you're through adjusting, you want the kind of the wingnuts to be in this position.
Alright, that's going to be good to go.
So, let me grab a torque wrench and maybe get somebody to hold down that brake pedal,
and we'll put 101 foot-pounds on it.
There it is.
I typically put them in with the long side toward me, the short side in.
Now we just need to adjust out our hand brake up top.
the foot brake one, see how that little pivot section is all the way toward the front?
You can take the hand brake side and just bring it even with it.
It should be good to go at that point.
Well alright guys, that pretty much wraps it up.
Well listen , if you need any of the parts that we used to do this, why don't you find
us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, leave them in the section below and I'll do my best
to answer them.
And until next time, we just want to say thanks for watching.