In my previous video, I improvised a simple table saw
and used that to cut all the rectangular parts
for the depth adjustment mechanism.
Now I just have to cut all the curved bits.
So I've just sanded where all the glue joints are gonna go
because with old wood like that, you get much better bonding
if it's a freshly sanded surface.
And this whole thing goes together
like this. This goes in here.
And then this here and this in here.
The saw's gonna fit in here.
There's gonna be hinges here.
And this thing will be the depth adjustment,
like so.
Luckily my cuts are all square.
Otherwise I'd be going, "Oh shit".
To make sure I drill the pilot holes square,
I've got this block with a notch on it
and it will also serve as a depth stop.
Now to assemble this, I'm gonna assemble it first with
just glue and just a few pieces at a time.
Hmm, that's tilted in a little bit here.
Now I'm gonna use this bigger piece of wood
to force that joint into square.
Now, time to go play with the computer
while the glue dries on that.
Now, as I glue this part on,
a really important alignment is that
this here is square with this plane here.
If it isn't, any future alignment
is going to be much more difficult.
Again it's important to sand the old surface
so that I get a good glue bond.
With the glue now fully dried,
I'm adding the screws.
The hinges for the depth adjustment mount on here.
And to get a better hold for them,
they're gonna screw into plywood, which
glues onto the particle board.
And I designed this with regular door hinges, like this one.
But, I have this pair of old hinges,
so I'm gonna use these instead, because I got those for free.
I just realized something that's kind of important.
With both of these resting flat on the table, like this,
while most of the time the saws gonna be used at not full depth,
which means sawdust can accumulate
on these surfaces, here.
Because that's actually facing up.
And then when you want to use the saw at full depth,
this really gets wedged in there and it might even
try to pull this off of here.
So, the solution is to put a spacer in here
to leave a little bit of room for the sawdust,
and I've just re-drilled all my pilot holes
for this new position.
And I realized, for the same reason
I needed a gap right here,
so I just moved the hinges this way a little bit.
So the saw is gonna fit into this bracket, like so.
But I need to strip off all the extra bits before I can use it.
If you don't have a ring removal tool, like this,
I'd recommend taking that ring off with an angle grinder
because you won't be using the saw for
anything else afterwards anyways.
I'm making dismantling the saw look easier than it is.
But if you're willing to use an angle grinder,
it's much faster.
The saw motor fits in here, like so.
Or, at least, it's supposed to. The problem is,
I did not model this part cord in the CAD program.
And so I didn't make allowances for it.
so I have to drill a hole
right about here for this cord.
I'm drilling the hole from both sides
to avoid tear-out in the back.
Well, I just had to remove this piece here
to make this hole a little bit bigger because it wasn't in
quite the right place.
And I've been fitting this saw and whittling away at it.
It needs to go in here.
And this saw has to be parallel to this plane
Right now it's still tilted a little bit, this way.
And so I've gradually been whittling away
at some of the things here.
So here I need to cut away a little bit more
to make room for the saw.
A little more still.
I've now got it parallel in this direction.
And in this direction it also needs to be parallel.
I'm just using a square.
You can still tilt it this way a little bit.
But, I have leeway here so I should be able to adjust that
into co-planing with the blades,
co-planning with this surface here.
When I built my last saw, I tried to
not destroy the saw too much
by mounting it on various parts of the plastic
and this hole here. But I think just screwing it
to the guard is much easier,
and it's a much better mounting method.
But that means I have to drill some extra holes.
I've drilled the holes, in the front, bigger
so I could get in there with a screwdriver and a screw.
On my previous homemade table saw,
I've had quite a bit of sawdust that got deposited here.
And I think what happened is
with the blade in here, eventually this got plugged up
but I didn't notice. And so sawdust
all came around here, hits the top of the table,
some of it goes this way and some of it this way,
ending up getting sucked into here.
So, to prevent that, I'm gonna cut a big hole in the guard
right about here.
With the saw positioned so that it's parallel
to this piece of plywood here,
I've actually got quite a bit of space between the guard
and the plywood. So I need some spacers
and I might as well glue these to the plywood itself.
So that way, when I screw it on here,
the screw is actually gonna have more support.
I'm gonna use some 8 by 1 1/4 inch screws,
and I think this drill will make the right size pilot hole,
to get a good firm hold.
With a ruler on here, I can see it's a bit too close on here,
so I need a little bit of shim in here.
And to prevent from losing them, I'm just gonna
glue the shims in place.
I have to make sure the blade mount is gonna be
perpendicular to this edge, so let's check that with a square.
And that looks like its close enough already.
So, I got this clamped on here now
and this is how the depth adjustment will work.
My depth of cut is limited because the motor
hits the particle board, so I'm gonna cut out a cavity
right here to get a little bit more.
The best way to cut this cavity is with a router but
to keep the tools to a minimum,
I'm gonna cut this with a circular saw.
Wow, that actually worked much better than I thought it would.
Now, just to make sure this bolt hole stays aligned,
with the slot as I move through the depth.
That's good.
Now I'm finally ready to glue on the mount.
It's really important that both of these hinges
are exactly the same distance from the edge of the wood.
This part goes on here and I've already glued and screwed
this block on. And now I need to
figure out where to put the pilot holes
for this to fit on here, and I'm just gonna do that
by tapping the screws.
The purpose of this piece of wood is just to help hold
the particle board flat, and I'm only gonna attach
it with glue.
I still need to make a proper fence,
and add miter slots.
And I'll cover that in upcoming videos.