Narrator: Getting anything to a Mount Everest hotel,
whether on back or by yak,
is a logistical nightmare.
And if supplies do manage to arrive, they're expensive.
One sack of rice costs $60.
A gallon of gas: $113.
These lodges, called teahouses,
are some of the highest hotels in the world.
But on Everest, accommodations for climbers look different
from the more basic lodging used by porters,
who work behind the scenes.
So, what's it like inside these teahouses?
And how do you run a business at the top of the world?
Up here, a single cup of milk tea
costs nearly 10 times what it does in the valleys of Nepal.
One of the main reasons is the amount of effort
it takes to get supplies up the mountain.
That responsibility falls to porters.
Where guides work directly with climbers,
porters get paid to carry supplies.
At 18 years old, Shusant is one of the youngest porters
in his trekking party.
Today, there are around 20 kilometers between him
and his destination, a teahouse in Dingboche.
Narrator: They carry supplies over 100 kilometers
and up 5,300 meters of elevation to base camp.
Under Nepalese law,
trekking porters are supposed to carry
no more than 30 kilos,
but this is often ignored.
And some commercial porters, paid by the load,
carry more than their own body weight.
Farther along the path to the teahouse,
a helicopter lands to conduct a rescue operation —
a stark reminder of how dangerous this job is.
But the dangerous conditions haven't deterred the traffic.
Even at these high elevations,
climbers, guides, and yaks flow through the narrow trails.
After seven hours of hiking,
Shusant finally arrives at a porter house.
This is Dingboche, about 4,400 meters above sea level.
Typically, porters aren't required to pay for lodging,
only the food they eat.
Narrator: Climbers and guides stay separate from porters
at more spacious lodges.
These lodges offer more amenities
but are often too expensive for porters.
Shusant makes about $11 to $12 a day.
He says he spends half and saves the rest.
Shusant hopes to one day become a trekking guide
and eventually a mountain guide.
But for now, he's enjoying a comfortable place to sleep
and a hot meal.
Narrator: Travelers rest at Dingboche for two days
to acclimate to the high elevation.
But Shusant can't relax for long.
After a day of rest, it's time to pack up
and get back on the trail.
It's a snowy April day in Pheriche.
This is a popular stop
for climbers descending from base camp.
But this storm could last days,
and the visibility is low,
a foreboding sign for anyone on their way down the mountain.
But inside, Shiva Bahadur Basnet already has a fire going.
He burns dried yak dung instead of wood
because it's cheaper and widely available.
During the busy season,
20 to 50 people cram in here each night.
Narrator: Shiva has run this teahouse for seven years.
It's a frequent stop
for porters returning from Everest base camp.
Narrator: Farther up the mountain,
there are limited accommodations for porters.
If they don't have a place to stay,
many hike down to Pheriche
after delivering the climbers' luggage.
Porters wake up early
and hike about 2½ kilometers back up
to meet trekking guides before the expedition sets off.
So at times, Shiva must have breakfast ready at 3 a.m.
But tonight, the porters have a chance to rest,
so Shiva is preparing a leisurely dinner for his guests.
When flour costs $60 a sack, the options are limited,
but Shiva makes the most out of what he has.
On tonight's menu: noodles, stew, and dhindo,
a thick flour porridge that's a staple food
in this part of Nepal.
Narrator: Teahouses like this look different
than the more modern accommodations available to climbers,
some of whom are paying tens of thousands of dollars
to summit Everest.
Those lodges offer more space and better amenities,
like separate rooms and showers.
Depending on the location,
climbers often pay less than $10 per night —
up to about $60 if you include food and electricity.
Narrator: Lodges prioritize the foreign climbers,
and while porters aren't explicitly banned,
it's customary for them to stay elsewhere.
Narrator: But running a hotel at this altitude is hard work.
Every drop of fuel, every piece of gear,
and every morsel of food he needs to keep the place running
must be carried up one step at a time.
Consequently, Shiva's operating costs are astronomical.
Narrator: And Shiva has to pass these prices
on to his guests.
The dhindo Pasang is eating cost him 600 rupees,
about double what it costs elsewhere in the country.
But Shiva can't push prices too high.
Despite the remote area, there is some competition.
So Shiva works hard
to ensure this is a comfortable place to stay.
Additionally, local waste-removal incentives provide Shiva
with the opportunity to earn a little extra money.
Narrator: Even with the high cost of doing business,
running a teahouse still provides Shiva
with more than he's able to earn in his village.
He works here for six months to support his family
and to send his kids to school.
During the off season,
he returns home to farm potatoes and maize.
Narrator: But beyond the financial pressures,
Shiva's livelihood provides an essential service
to porters traveling on the mountain.
Narrator: For Shiva, the hard work is worth it
for the warmth and community the teahouse provides.
The atmosphere of the shared dormitory
and small dining room is more like a home than a hotel.
Despite the limited amenities,
Shusant says he enjoys the camaraderie teahouses provide.
Narrator: After reaching base camp
and more than a week of hiking,
Shusant heads back down the trail
towards the narrow airstrip at Lukla.
From here, the climbers fly back to Kathmandu,
ending their journey.
But for many porters, the season is still going.
They turn around, tie up their bags,
and start the trek again.