Hey, what's up guys.
Welcome back to another episode
of Chemical Guys Detail Garage,
and welcome to this two-part series
where I'm going to show you guys how to
clean, decontaminate, and protect your ride.
So stay tuned for part one where I'm going to show you guys
how to clean and decontaminate your paint.
So the first step in every detail
is cleaning and decontaminating the paint.
So to most it would be as simple as a carwash.
Well, that is true,
but you do want to decontaminate the paint as well.
So I'm going to show you guys
how to go out and clay bar your paint
and fully decontaminate it
so that whenever you apply a wax, sealant, or glaze,
it has the best shine and durability possible.
So to kick this off,
I'm going to begin by washing the vehicle.
So today I'm going to be using a mixture of two soaps
with my foam cannon to wash this Nissan Sentra.
So the soap I'm going to be mixing
is Honeydew Snow Foam,
which is a great, high-foaming soap.
That's going to pair up well
with our TORQ Professional Foam Cannon.
Now, this tool makes it easy for me to
lay a thick blanket of foam
and lubrication on the vehicle.
So once we wipe with our wash mitt,
we get a lot more lubricated wipes
so that we don't scratch the surface.
And the second soap I'm pairing it up with,
is Clean Slate.
Now, Clean Slate is great
because it strips off
any previous coats of wax, sealant, or glaze
that's on the paint
so that whenever we go to apply a fresh one,
there's not going to be any kind of oils
or anything that's under
interfering with the application.
As you guys know,
whenever you apply a glaze, sealant, or wax,
it bonds directly to the pores of the paint,
which means that you want to have the surface of your paint
as bare as possible,
so that when you apply your coat of wax, sealant, or glaze,
it bonds directly to the paint and not to whatever's on it.
So to utilize these two soaps
is as you guys see right here already,
I have my TORQ Professional Foam Cannon
already diluted with two ounces of Honeydew Snow Foam,
and add one ounce of Clean Slate,
which acts as an additive
to my soap here,
to give it a boost in cleaning power
so that it breaks down those waxes and sealants.
So I'll open this up,
and we're going to add an ounce of product here,
which is equivalent to about one good squirt.
And just like that,
that give us
that added cleaning power
so that we can strip those sealants.
I'll set that down.
I'll grab my foam cannon head,
put it back in, tighten it.
And now our foam solution is ready to go.
All we want to do now is give it a stir
and we're ready to foam.
Now that I have that set down,
I'll insert my two dirt traps
into my buckets,
because remember, we want
to get the best, cleanest, and most filtered wash.
So what I'm going to do here
is take my two dirt traps.
If you guys don't know what these dirt traps are,
they're filtration systems for your bucket.
So what they do is they allow the dirt
and all the contaminants
to seep through the holes on the top.
And it makes it hard for it to resurface
because of the smaller holes in the bottom.
And it also creates an airtight suction
that doesn't allow those contaminants
that you're getting off your car,
keeping it at the bottom of your bucket
so that you're not bringing it back and forth
and installing new scratches or swirls.
So the way to use these is very easy.
All you want do is dunk them in at an angle
and then set them down towards the bottom of your bucket.
So now that those Dirt Traps are in place,
I'll grab
just a little bit more of Clean Slate here.
And dedicate one of my buckets
as my soap bucket.
So I'm gonna use my Red Dirt Trap bucket
as my soap bucket.
So apply an ounce of Clean Slate
in there so that whenever I go back and forth
from my wash mitt to the vehicle,
I get a nice, more cleaning power
from the Clean Slate that's in there
so that I get that lubrication.
And like I said, it does its best job
at breaking down all those sealants and waxes.
So now that I have that set up,
I'm going to give the car a little pre-rinse
to knock off any kind of loose dirt and debris.
And then we'll
begin with the foaming process.
All right, so now that we've finished foaming up the car,
it's time to give it a wipe down.
Now I'm going to be using our Chenile Microfiber Wash Mitt.
I love using this wash mitt
because it has these nice soft, chenile noodles
that agitate the surface of your vehicle,
but are soft enough so that they won't scratch the finish,
and they filter out any kind of dirt and grime
throughout it so that you don't create
any kind of dirt lines
and scratch up the finish of the vehicle.
So dunk it right here
in your bucket of soap.
And then move on to the car.
We recommend starting from top to bottom
and working in straight motions.
And that's just because we want make sure that,
if there's anything or any kind of rocks or debris
that's on the vehicle,
it doesn't get stuck in our wash mitt here,
and we don't kind of mimic that swirl motion,
which will result in those swirl marks
on the paint.
So make sure whenever you're wiping down your vehicle,
always, always, always use straight motions
to avoid the chance of something getting caught
on your wash mitt and scratching the finish.
Straight motions, you can go left and right,
up and down, it doesn't matter.
And always work from top down,
just so that you work from the contamination
that's on the top of the vehicle
and finish with the contamination
on the lower parts of the vehicle.
Because as most of you guys know,
usually the lower parts of the vehicle
are the most dirtiest.
So that's where you have all the tar, the grime,
the buildup from your tires that kicks up all that dirt
that you drive through.
So those usually are the most dirtiest.
So that's why we recommend always starting
from top to bottom.
So once you do a section,
I did like half or a quarter of the hood
and half the hood here.
Now I'm going to
wring out my wash mitt. (water splashing)
Come back to your rinse bucket,
which is just the bucket full of water
and with your Dirt Trap,and stick it in there.
And then what you want to do is just gently agitate it
on the surface of your Dirt Trap that's at the bottom.
And you can also do both sides.
If you do happen to use both sides of your wash mitt
during the wash process.
And that's going to kick off any dirt or grime
that caught onto your wash mitt.
Once you do that, come back out,
(water splashing) wring that out,
just because the water itself, it'll also help carry
any contaminants that are on your wash mitt
off very gently and smoothly.
Then once you do that, come back to your soap bucket,
get it all nice and lathered up.
And then you can
do another section of your vehicle.
So I'm going to
finish off the rest of the vehicle, wiping it down,
rinsing it off, drying it,
and start with the guys on the next process,
which is decontaminating.
All right, guys.
So we just finished washing and drying the vehicle,
and now it's time to move on to the decontamination process.
So to do that,
I'm using our synthetic Clay Block.
Now, if you guys haven't seen this before,
this is a synthetic clay mixture.
So what this is, it's a mixture
between a rubber and clay product
that has a sheet of clay right here on one side,
and then all the other sides are like a sponge.
So you can grasp it with your hand
and you don't have to worry about kneading it around
like a traditional clay bar.
So this makes it perfect for any kind of beginner
or professional and get the ease of use
of using a clay bar on the vehicle
in a convenient Clay Block.
So remember how I was talking to you guys about,
washing it.
So now we want to take care of the embedded stuff.
So the stuff that you don't really see with your eye,
but you can definitely hear,
once you rub your hand across the paint,
you can kind of hear like a light, little raspy feel.
If you do have a white car,
the contamination can be kind of identified
as little brown, yellow specs
that are on the surface of it.
On colors like this, you don't necessarily see it so much
just because of the color, and it doesn't really reflect it,
but you do have those contamination spots
from industrial fallout, rail dust,
you know, salt, all that stuff plays a factor
and can embed itself into your paint
and cause it to look bad.
So to begin the process,
we're using it with our clay lubricant.
Now Clay Luber is a synthetic lubricant
that's designed to go with your clay bar
and/or a Clay Block.
And it lubricates the surface
so we can gently glide this left and right,
and remove all the embedded contamination
without marring the paint
or installing any scratches or swirls.
So before we start,
I want to emphasize that we are working outdoors.
Usually we recommend doing this indoors
in a shaded or garage environment,
simply because you want to make sure
that you get the best use out of your clay lubricant.
You know, if you're doing outdoors in direct sunlight,
it might dry it out
and you might not get the best lubrication.
But luckily for us, it is kind of a cloudy day.
So it's not be a big issue,
but if you are outdoors in the sunlight,
I do highly recommend that you work indoors
for best results.
It's very easy to use.
All you have to do is spray your synthetic clay lubricant.
And since we're working outdoors, like I said,
make sure that we work in small areas at a time.
Make sure
that we're doing a two by two section.
So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna spray my clay lubricant
(bottle sprays) in a two by two area.
I'm gonna grab my Clay Block.
I'm going to spray about two times on it.
And gently glide it
left and right.
And right away,
you can feel that kind of raspiness that's on the paint.
And as you're gliding your Clay Block left and right,
it's starts getting smoother and smoother.
And if you feel like you wanna add some more lubrication,
feel free to add more
by just spraying a little bit more product
so that you get the best lubrication possible.
Remember, whenever it comes to claying,
make sure that you have the best lubrication,
so that you don't mar or scratch the finish.
Now, this is a key component to claying
because remember, you want to remove the contamination.
We're not trying to
damage the paint by making it look worse or scratching it.
And just like that,
you guys would notice that the Clay Block is great
because it spreads a nice even coverage.
It has this nice sponge handle that you can grab onto,
and it applies an even amount of pressure
throughout the entire course of the Clay Block.
As you guys can see,
it's a bigger coverage than a regular clay bar.
So you'll get a lot more surface coverage done a lot sooner,
a lot quicker, and a lot easier.
So with the pressure that you put with the hand,
it keeps the Clay Block parallel to the surface,
and it's always pulling off the contamination
on every square inch of this Clay Block here.
So I'm going to
just finish this off, one more light pass.
And once you feel
like it's just gliding right over the paint,
you can finish up with that.
Grab yourself a microfiber towel,
and gently buff off the excess of the clay lubricant.
Now you may also
buff off any kind of embedded contamination
that you pulled off, and then flip it to a dry side,
just to buff that clean.
And it's as easy as that.
So once you do that and you can feel the paint,
it's nice and glass smooth,
and it's prepared for the next detailing process.
Now, one thing I did forget to mention
as I'm claying this hood here
is the level of contamination that's on this paint.
Now I didn't really go into detail
as far as like the level of contamination on here.
Well, the reason I didn't
is because the Clay Block works out great for all levels.
So whether the contamination is light,
not that bad, or pretty bad,
you can use this clay block
to knock off all the level of contamination
and restore that glass smooth feel to your paint.
One cool thing about this Clay Block
is if I drop it,
if I drop it on the floor,
I can pick it right back up.
And one cool thing about this is you can grab water,
a quick detail spray,
spray the surface,
set your luber down,
and then all you gotta do is wipe it with a microfiber towel
and wipe it clean, dry,
and it doesn't pick up any rocks, debris,
or any kind of fine dust that's going to
scratch the vehicle.
You just wanna make sure that you properly wipe it down
with the microfiber towel and inspect it
just to make sure that there's nothing on there.
And it's great, like I said,
for beginners and as a maintenance tool
to go use, you know,
over time using it between washes here and there,
every couple months,
just to make sure that your paint is always glass smooth.
And the last thing I do wanna mention
is that it works on multitude of surfaces.
So not only can we use it on our paint,
but we can also use it on our headlights as well.
You can use it on your headlights
to decontaminate them
before you apply, like, you know,
JetSeal to protect them, you know,
so that we prevent them from becoming yellow.
You can also use it on any kind of chrome metal surfaces.
So it works out great
at decontaminating your metal surfaces.
If there's any kind of, you know,
embedded contamination, and it also works great on glass.
So I'm going to
finish up clay blocking the entire vehicle.
Like I said, I'm going to do the paint.
I'm going to do the glass as well,
because we can protect the glass,
the headlights, the chromes.
So we'll go in and do all that.
And we'll see you guys once we're done
(relaxing music)
All right guys, and there you guys have it.
The paint is completely clean and decontaminated.
You guys saw, we washed it with our Clean Slate,
which stripped off all the sealants, waxes,
any kind of glazes that are on it.
And then we moved on to decontaminating it
with our Clay Block kit.
Now you guys saw the Clay Block,
how amazing and easy it was
to decontaminate your paint very quickly and efficiently.
So now that we've cleaned and decontaminated the paint,
it's time to move on to our second part of the series,
where we're going to show you guys
how to shine and protect the finish of your ride.
So stay tuned for that.
If you guys liked this video,
make sure to give it a thumbs up.
If you learned something new today,
comment down below, and as always, my name is Joey.
This is Chemical Guys Detail Garage.
We'll see you guys next time.
(gentle music)