Hi I'm Vance and welcome to Repair and Replace.
Electric stoves have small indicator lights that light up any time the element is turned on.
If your cooktop indicator light stays, on even when the burner is off,
then it's not an issue with the light itself.
Instead it's because of a stuck contact in one of the heat switches.
In this episode, first we'll learn how it all works,
then we'll test each switch to see if it's faulty.
Finally we'll learn how to install a new switch in a ceramic or conventional stove.
Let's get started.
Electric stoves are pretty simple at a base level.
When electricity passes through the heating element,
the resistance in the material generates heat.
Each burner is on a separate circuit and is controlled by an infinite heat switch.
When you turn the dial, the switch closes, letting 120 volts
travel through both sides of the element.
This provides the necessary 240 volts.
One side of the switch will remain closed, which will power the cooktop indicator light.
The other side of the switch will open and disconnect power once the element heats up.
It will cycle on and off to maintain the set level of heat.
When you turn off the dial, both sides of the switch will open, disconnecting the power.
Now if the contacts are stuck closed, then the indicator light will stay on,
even when the burner is off.
In some models one indicator light is connected to all four switches,
in other models each side will have its own light.
To narrow down the problem, you can test the switches with a multimeter.
A continuity test will determine if there is a continuous path for electricity to flow through.
In this case, the faulty switch will have continuity, even when the switch is turned off.
To begin you might need a screwdriver, a nut driver, gloves, and a multimeter.
Always be safe, and disconnect the power at the breaker.
Since there might be some sharp edges, it's best to wear cut resistant gloves.
Gently pull the range slightly away from the wall.
As soon as there's enough room, go in behind and unplug it from the receptacle.
Make sure that there isn't too much tension on the cord.
Now slide the range all the way out so you have plenty of room to work.
On the back of the oven is a cover panel.
Some models have a small panel near the top, and a larger panel near the bottom.
Now remove the screws.
The panel will likely be sitting on several hooks, simply lift up to remove the panel.
first inspect the switches.
If one looks burnt or blackened, then start with that switch.
To remember where each wire goes, it's best to take a picture for reference.
Now disconnect the wires.
On the switch you should see a few terminals
marked L for line, H for heater, and P for an indicator light.
Set your multimeter to the ohms or resistance setting.
Now touch the probes to L1 and P.
With the switch turned off, there should be no reading and no continuity.
Now if the multimeter shows a reading between 0 and 1 ohm, then the switch is defective.
If you're testing the switch for a dual ring element, the terminal labels might be different.
On some models the power terminals are labeled P1 and P2.
The heating circuit terminals are 2, 4, and 4A.
S2 will go to the indicator light, so in this case you'll test for continuity between P1 and S2.
Now if there's no continuity,
then move on to the next switch, until you find the one that is faulty.
If you need a new switch, then you can enter your model number on the AMRE Supply website.
From there you'll see a parts breakdown with the exact replacement parts listed for your model.
If needed, disconnect the wires.
Go to the front and pull the dial off the switch.
Now remove the screws, and slide the switch out of the mount.
If the new switch has a longer stem than the old one,
then use the pliers to snap off the top to the right length.
Insert the new switch, and line up the holes.
Now replace the mounting screws.
Align the flat side of the dial to the flat part of the stem, and push it into place.
Now reconnect the wires.
Align the back panel, and replace the screws.
Now plug in the cord, and push the range back into place.
Next reconnect the power.
Now you can test your stove.
For more troubleshooting videos on water heaters,
furnaces, and appliances, then subscribe to our channel.
And if you need help, you can call or visit an AMRE location
to talk with our knowledgeable staff.
Thanks for watching.