In this video I'm going to go through how to apply lash extensions
Start by sterilizing your hands
Prep two silk pads or under eye patches
And pre-cut four pieces of micropore tape
If you are using silk pads
separate them and de-tact them on the back of your hand so that they are not too sticky
I would always use eye patches or silk pads
I don't think using just a micropore tape is a good idea for the thin skin under the eye
I found some really cool lash silk pads with guides on them
You could use these as you're beginning to do lash extensions to help you figure out which lash to put on the client next
First off I start by putting a silk pad under the eye
You may be using eye pads or silicone pads
Use these instead if you have them
After the silk pad goes on normally I don't have all the lower lashes stuck down
So I will cut four pieces of micropore tape then I'll apply two of those cut pieces
quite close to the waterline to make sure all of the lashes are stuck down
From this point on the client can keep their eyes closed and I let them know that they should keep your eyes closed
I primed the lashes with primer pads or with a liquid primer with micro-fiber brushes
This will help remove any protein from any makeup or mascara that has been left on the lashes
and it will help with a glue adhering for the longest time so that a client will get a good length of time out of their lash extensions
By taping the lid of the hooded eye
you'll be moving the hooded lid out of the way so that you can see the lashes
If you de-tact the tape you will not pull out any eyebrows
This is also a good tip for clients with the downward tuned lashes
This helps lift them up and makes your job easier to attach the lashes
On this client I am going to use C curl lashes
I'm going to do a blend of lashes
I'm going to try and blend them in to give her the most natural set
When I say natural C curl doesn't look completely natural
It will look like she has lash extensions on
I'd probably have to go down to B curl
Or even then
I'd probably have to look at sticking to the same size as her lashes
In this case what I'm going to do is I'm going to do
elevens on the outer corner then a blend of eleven and twelves then twelves nearer the middle then coming through to eleven and twelves
to the inner eye
We're now going to do tens and then I do nines
Now that I'm ready and know which size and shape of lashes I'm going to use
I prep my lashes and glue
If I'm using individual strip lashes, I pull a strip off the tray and stick it to the back of my hand
If I'm using loose lashes, I dispense some into the silicone dish
I wouldn't dispense all sizes, just dispense one or two to start with like eleven or twelve
If you're new to lash extensions and you have several sizes on your silicone dish
You can find that you get them mixed up so until you have a trained eye
just dispense a couple at a time
Now you can get glue ready
If you're using a ringing cup press the cup securely into the ring holder
then wear the ring on your finger
Dispense some glue into the cup
You don't need heaps of glue
If you're using a crystal or jade stone dispense a drop or two directly onto the stone
Depending on the brand of glue you are using, it should be kept cool in the fridge in between lash extension treatments
Some glue will need to be taken out of the fridge two to three hours before the lash treatment
So some actually need to be at room temperature for best use
You really need to find out which is the best temperature for your semi-permanent glue from your supplier
Using your fine point tweezers retrieve one lash at a time
If an individual lash strip pull off a lash
If you're using loose lashes, turn the lash dish so that the lash that you want is the tip furthest away from you
Tap the lash to make it sit up on its end and then pick up the tip
Dip the lash into the glue so that you have one to three beads of glue on the lash
Start with the outer corner of the eye. I'm starting with eleven C's. They are point 15 millimeter thickness
Isolate one lash with your fine point tweezers
Swipe the lash with glue on it down the lash so that it has some glue on it
Then place the lash close to the natural root of the lash as you can without touching the skin
You must not touch the skin with the glue if you do touch the skin with a semi-permanent glue
you need to remove it straight away
In this industry a lot of beauticians will pride themselves on saying that they only deal with isolated lashes
And this is what isolated lashes is: its when you single out one lash, you dip the lash extension
that's within your tweezers into three little dots or two dots of glue
and then you apply that lash to one lash. You also try to make sure that it's not touching any other lashes as it dries
that's why having a glue that dries fast is really helpful as
As I work on lash extension sometimes I can get one quarter of the way through and I think "Oh my God this looks so bad"
"They're not all perfectly patterned"
"They don't look really nice yet"
But you've got to realise that you have to keep going and as you get about halfway through
you will be seeing a lovely pattern forming
you'll see that some of those lashes that look like they were facing a weird way
(unless crazy weird way where you should remove it)
you'll see that they're just crossing over each other and they're looking more natural than a patterned
perfect type of lash set
So what I will say about this lash extension set that I did
because the camera was over my right hand shoulder I like to normally lean them more closer to the outer of the eye
where as they're not leaning as much to the outer of the eye as I would like
So this set just taught me that when you are so used to sitting in one position
the same way all the time and looking at a set of eyelashes from that perfect right down the nose kind of
centered angle you can do your best work
and you know just sitting slightly off to the side so that I could film this
made them not quite as perfect as I would have liked them to be I don't think they horribly bad
but it was just something I noticed from making this film
If you have too much glue on your lash, you can remove some by just patting it on the lash tape
So you can see as I put the lashes on I then separate them out from the other ones
and I keep separating as I go so I keep kind of
preening the lashes as I go
Some will actually you know they will stick to the other lashes even though you've tried really really hard to make sure that they don't
You will get that happening
And you just need to try and separate them gently
You obviously don't want to take out the clients own natural lash
It will hurt them and also want to hold on to our natural lashes as much as we can
Once I get one quarter of the way through with my eleven size
I then start doing a twelve lash then an eleven then a twelve
then an eleven till I feel like I'm getting to the center of the eye
And then I'll start just shifting to solely twelves and the center of the eye
Because I think it's quite nice for the longer length to be right above the pupil
It's a little bit deceiving sometimes what you think is the center of the eye
from the eye being shut can actually be a little bit further along to the inner of the eye
So don't be afraid to take those bigger ones
probably to the length of where it looks like you have one quarter of those left to do
When you're going through and preening the lashes as you go you find some lashes
you've missed you just go back through and put more lashes in where you've missed some
I like to apply lashes to all lashes unless there's a very very small baby lash
And I think "No, that lash is too big. It won't hold it"
I might decide just to put a little lash in there, so that it will support it
and also remembering that our lashes are not all perfectly one size
They're not all like size elevens all the way across that's very fake looking so by putting
a little smaller ten in there in between some twelves I'm doing, is not going to look crazy silly
It's actually going to make it look more natural
One thing that I noticed that I do that I would say probably another lash tech would say
that they wouldn't like me doing that. I kind of use the tip of my finger to shift the lashes out of the way
and I'm doing that right here, and then I get my tweezers in near in a way to separate out to the lash side
I don't tend to use that fork action that
separation action with my my left handed tweezers, if that makes sense?
I'm kind of pushing aside all to the right the lashes that I've worked on and I'm looking for one lash
and then I'm separating that lash from the left hand side, so I'm making sure I'm getting one lash
I sterilised my hands before I begin so I don't really expect that I have any oils on my fingers that will affect the
Semi-permanent glue and don't forget I am touching the tip of the lashes
I'm not touching the base where the glue has been applied, so I'm happy with this being the way that I work
And like I say if another lash tech watches this and says "Awe no that I wouldn't do it that way". That's fine
It's not the way that you do it. Do it the way that works best for you
if you need to separate out those leashes from each other by having
the left in the right side of the tweezer on each side of the lash that you want to apply to then do that
that's how I was taught in the beginning
When I get to the center of the eye because I've been doing elevens then eleven twelve blends
I then start putting a lot of twelves in. So right through the center of the eye I put my biggest eyelashes in and
this is just for this type of set
You can change how you apply lashes and the sizes that you do for different eye shapes
I know that this model looks really nice having her lashes done this way
We've done them before and it's really pretty
So you're following naturally what nature creates
So at about two-thirds in, that's when I will switch back to the eleven twelve
type of blend so I'll go eleven then a twelve, then an eleven then a twelve
Maybe there'll be some smaller ones in there that I'll go eleven eleven twelve
But I just use their own natural lashes to guide me
Once I get to the inner corner of the eye I like to size down by about three sizes
So I start trying ten then I do nine then I can do eight
So I'm trying to bring it right down
It's going to get tricky when you get to the inner corner of the eye
For one the nose is a little bit in the way
so you can get them to lean their head to the side if you need
Secondly I notice on a lot of clients this part of the eye has very clustered lashes
They've really thick and they're quite congested
within the inner corner of the eye
So it can be quite hard to separate these little lashes out to get little lashes in
Just be patient and take it one by one
Sometimes it's easy just to be like
"Oh I've gone far enough in and I'm just going to just leave it at that", when you open the eyes you'll be like
"Oh that doesn't blend down as well as it should have"
So continue on and try and get the inner corner lashes as much as you can
When you're right into those inner corner lashes that are very tiny though
stick to tiny lashes because it's going to annoy the client
Before finishing the application of the lashes
go through and check all lashes are separated
Separate any which are sticking to one another very carefully
If they are stuck together with big lumps of glue
You will need to remove the bulky glue and that lash by using microfiber applicators and lash glue remover
By lifting up the eye gently, I look for any lashes that may have attached to the bottom lashes
If they have attached, I just try and separate them with tweezers
I try and do this as gently as I can so that it's comfortable for the client
After the leashes have been completed I brush through with a mascara brush and the Nouveau Sealant
The Nouveau Sealant is optional
Then I'll use an air blower to blow air through the lashes to dry them
And then I'll preen them one more time just to make sure that they're all separated and comfortable for the client
Support the skin as you remove the pad
Stretch or press the skin as you remove the pad
Turn the lights down then the client can open her eyes
The client should feel no stinging or any fumes
It should be perfectly comfortable
I have seen other therapists suggest to find the final lashes that are left before you take the tape off
you can de-tact some tape
and use that to stick back the lashes that are already completed
Then you can see the natural lashes that are remaining
I've only done this a couple times myself, and it definitely has not damaged the lashes I've completed
But I don't tend to use this technique very much
I give my clients a mascara brush to take care of their lashes at home
So let's say if they wake up in the morning
And they have a few that are off in weird directions then they can use the brush to tidy them up
Clean up your lash glue nib by wiping any excess glue off before you put the lid back on
If you don't do this your lid is probably going to get glued on and you probably won't be able to get that lid off
Also, you can use a needle or a toothpick to clean down the nib of the bottle and ensure that it isn't getting blocked
You could also put a piece of blue-tact on the bottom of the glue so that the bottle doesn't fall over
and glue falls out of the tip