Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. Today we're going to be working with the braking
system on our 2011 Polaris 850 Sportsman. In particular, we're going to be looking at
the front master cylinder. If you've gone through the bleeding procedure,
and it's just not pumping up the way you want it to or if you see that it's leaking, particularly
right out of here, that means that your master cylinder seals are probably gone and you're
going to need to replace it. Now Polaris actually sells this as a complete
unit, and I'm going to show you how to replace that.
So let's get started. Alright, let's start by going ahead and taking
off the cover. And let's extract any fluid that might be in there because we don't want
to spill brake fluid all over our machine because it is very damaging to surfaces, particularly
this camo surface-- and we don't want to destroy that.
Alright, it looks like this one was about empty anyway, so I'm just going to grab a
rag and cram it down in there to soak up what little is there. That way we can start flipping
it over. This particular unit has a winch on it, so
we just need to get that controller out of the way first. Keep in mind there's a couple
of spacers in between the switch mount and the master cylinder so don't want to lose
those. Alright we've got all that sopped up.
Alright what we're interested in here is we need to remove that circlip right there to
take out the pin for our actual brake handle. And then there's two little tabs here and
here which we have to push in to remove the brake switch.
Man, that thing is tiny. Alright there.
So what I'm going to do here is remount it temporarily, letting the machine hold onto
it so I can go ahead and remove the front brake line.
Alright, this is just your standard banjo bolt. It'll have two washers on it, so make
sure you don't lose either one of those. They just go on either side of the hose fitting.
I'll be able to show you once I get this thing out of there. It's actually two little tabs
sticking up on the bottom of the switch. What I need to do is push down one at a time and
just kind of wiggle it out of there. Like that. And this is those two tabs I was
talking about. Alright, and that's all there is to that.
New, nice shiny assembly. All we need to do is just reinstall it.
I'm just putting these bolts in there to hold it temporarily so I can get the different
pieces back together. Get our switch in first: slide it in until
the tabs line up and they pop right out. Let's go ahead and get our brake line back
on. This was just a 12mm bolt. Make sure you line up the hose to where it is following
the handlebar down. Alright, so we don't prematurely wear this
pivot pin out, because that was really dry. That still feels okay. Let's put a little
bit of grease on there so it will operate smoothly.
Alright. Push in a little bit.
In she goes. Now we need to get this teeny-tiny little
circlip back on the bottom of that pivot pin. You can pretty much do this without the tool.
Push up on it until you hear it click into place.
And there you go. Alright.
Now let's go ahead and get our switch mounted back up there like it was. It's going to be
a little tricky having to keep those spacers in place but I think we can do it.
Alright, you want to adjust it a little bit in to where the end of your brake lever is
about even with the handlebar grip itself. Right there.
And you want the reservoir to pretty much be flat when the wheel is straight, so right
there. Well listen guys, all that's really left now
is just to bleed the system, and we have a video that shows you exactly how to do that
so if you would find it on our YouTube channel. I go through the entire procedure of bleeding
the front and rear brake system. So listen, if you need any of the parts that
we used, come find us at partzilla.com, and if you have an questions or comments just
leave them below and I'll do my best to answer them. Other than that, I just want to say
thank you for watching and we'll see you next time.