- Hey Byrdies.
It's Star here, Senior Social Media Editor,
natural hair enthusiast, mixed girl,
and the host of "Crowned", a series where we talk
all about the history and significance of black hair.
Today we're covering the silk press,
a black hairstyle born out of survival.
The first thing to know about the silk press
is that it is a hair straightening technique
that presses kinky, coily and curly hair
into sleek, straight strands.
The second thing to know
is that this hairstyle has been a trend for years.
And there's a good reason why,
but more on that later.
This style is just as popular today as it was decades ago.
For example, Tia and Tamera Mowry wore a silk press
during the later seasons of "Sister, Sister".
Sleek and straight strands were Aaliyah's signature look,
and Michelle Obama wore a silk press
throughout her career as First Lady.
And don't get it twisted.
While celebrities have been wearing this style for years,
it's also super accessible.
I've even gotten a silk press earlier this year
and one in 2019 at Spoke and Weal salon in Soho
by hairstylist and color specialist, Alex Hiers.
When I want to switch up my hair for a couple of weeks,
this is my go-to style.
But what makes the silk press so important?
And where did it come from?
First, let's get into the history.
Black people have been straightening hair with hot tools
since the early 1900s due to discrimination.
Historically, straightening our hair
has been an act of survival.
When black folks moved up north during the Great Migration,
they faced new challenges,
even after enslavement.
After enslavement was abolished,
newly freed Black Americans
were virtually unprotected by the government.
This led to widespread violence by terrorist groups
and the oppressive Jim Crow laws that kept Black folks
from enjoying their full rights as citizens,
especially when it came to employment.
Finding jobs and creating a life
meant altering our hair texture
in order to fit into the European beauty standards
of the time.
Unlike cornrows or Bantu knots,
hair straightening was born out of the need to survive
in a racist society.
And while straightening our hair is a popular style,
it's important to note
that exposing delicate Afro-textured hair to high heat
with hot tools or chemicals can be extremely damaging.
And by the way, the silk press
was not the first hair straightening technique
created for curly, kinky and coily textures.
There were a few other styles that walked
so that the silk press could run.
One of the earliest examples was called pullers.
This straightening process
involved two round balls mounted on a handle,
which when pulled through the hair loosened kinks and coils.
Then during the mid 1900s,
cold soap waves were a popular way
to achieve pronounced parts and sleek looks.
This look was mostly worn by men
and it could be achieved by using a hairbrush or a comb,
large amounts of hair grease, water,
running it through the hair,
and then using a do-rag to preserve it overnight.
Then in the 1920s,
the hot comb was popularized by Madam CJ Walker.
And contrary to popular belief,
Madam CJ Walker actually didn't invent the hot comb.
But it was a central part of her business,
which is why she's often credited with the invention.
The hot comb was part of Madam CJ Walker's shampoo, press
and curl technique.
Which was a hair straightening method
that was to become the foundation
of the Black beautician industry.
And it's pretty reminiscent
of how hair is pressed out even today.
The hot comb is an iron and comb combination
that when heated up, straightens and detangles curly, kinky
and coily textures,
when I've had my hair pressed in the last couple of years,
hairstylists have used a hot comb
to slick back the hair just before my edges
to make it as straight as possible.
So the tool is still pretty relevant today.
But as technology advanced,
a new hair straightening technique came into popularity.
Enter lye-relaxers.
To straighten hair, lye, which is a metal hydroxide,
was mixed with potatoes
in order to make the formula less caustic.
This creamy concoction was applied to hair
and the result was straightened curls, kinks, and coils.
Unfortunately, the lye was extremely toxic
and could actually eat the skin right off of someone's head.
But let's get back to the silk press.
After the most recent natural hair movement
took off in 2009,
some Black people wanted the option
to wear their hair straight, temporarily.
Voila, the silk press.
You get the same look as a relaxer,
but none of the chemicals.
Personally, I wish I had known about this style
back when I was getting relaxers,
because it's a lot safer and less damaging
than using chemicals.
But, let's get down
to how you go from curly, kinky and coily hair
to sleek, straight strands.
One of the major steps to achieve a silk press
is to use a heat protectant
to minimize the inevitable heat damage
on Afro-textured hair.
Although it's important,
traditionally Afro-textured hair has been excluded
from studies that test the effectiveness
of heat protectants.
But we'll get into hair textures in another episode.
Back to the silk press.
The style starts on twice-shampooed hair
that is then deep conditioned for 30 minutes
in order to stave off breakage and tangling.
After that, hair is rinsed with cool water
in order to close the cuticles.
Then hair is blown out
and finally straightened into small sections
for that extra silky finish.
The style lasts around two to three weeks,
depending on your hair routine.
And by wrapping your hair at night in a silk scarf,
your style is protected from breakage
and remains silky day to day.
And while the style is beautiful and trendy,
it's important to note
that hair straightening is a tool of adaption
for Black people in a racist society.
And let's be honest,
only in the last few years where we've reached a new chapter
in the natural hair movement
has it been accessible for Afro-textured hair
to be cared for in salons that cater to white people.
Often hair straightening was and is the only option
when caring for Black hair.
And in a society where European beauty is the standard,
hair straightening was originally a trauma response
to ongoing anti-Black violence.
In contrast, a style like cornrows or Bantu knots
is rooted in pre-colonial cultural practices.
So when Black people wear straight hair,
it's a symbol of survival and of strength.
And it's also a great way to mix up our look.
Which is a perfect example
of why Black hair is Black history.