Hey, guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com. And today, we're taking a quick look at and
installing the MP Concepts Performance Pack Style Rear Spoiler in the Primed Finish,
available for the 2015 and newer Fastback Mustang. You should be
checking this out if you're a fan of the performance pack S550 rear spoiler
and your S550 didn't come with a spoiler or maybe had the base model style and you're
looking for that upgrade. This is more of a race or performance pack-inspired design,
something that's more of a pedestal spoiler rather than a flush mount one. Now, typically,
the base model GTs and EcoBoosts would come with the flush mount spoiler that's almost a ducktail,
very flush with the trunk lid and the fender here when it loops over. This guy with the performance
pack comes up several inches to give you that more aerodynamic look. Now, this one is a whole
lot more aggressive and it's very OEM-style. So, if you're a fan of that OEM look, this is
a great way to go without going to some of the more unique or in-your-face aftermarket options.
Now, out of the box, this guy is made of an ABS plastic, a very common material
used in most exterior styling parts, including some of the factory components,
so it's extremely durable. It's UV-resistant. It's fade-resistant. It's something that's
going to last a long while just like your factory one would. Right out of the box,
this guy is primed, as I mentioned earlier, which means it's not painted but it's ready for paint.
You can install it right out of the box like we are here on our customer car. In that case, just
keep in mind, it's going to be a flat matte black finish, no prime, no clear coat on top of it,
so you may see some manufacturing imperfections. I would recommend taking it to a local paint shop
to get custom-painted or paint-matched to your OEM color. But again, out of the box,
if you're a fan of the matte black primed finish, you can install it as is like you see here.
Now, this guy is going to run you right around 175 bucks, making it a pretty affordable upgrade
for the rear-end, especially for guys who didn't come with a factory spoiler. Now, if you own a
performance pack and your factory performance pack style spoiler is damaged and need replacement,
this is going to be a great cost-effective way to get that same OE style at the rear without
spending bigger bucks from a direct Ford replacement. Three out of three wrenches on
our difficulty meter. It does require drilling regardless of whether or not your vehicle came
with a factory spoiler. If you're going from the factory-based model spoiler or no spoiler at all,
you're going to be drilling new holes. Now, if your factory spoiler was a performance pack, you
may be able to reuse your factory holes. You may need to make them a little bit bigger depending
on how the sizing matches up. Now, the drilling does beef up that difficulty, so you want to have
a drill and a drill bit set on deck. We're going to start at about an 1/8 of an inch working our
way up to as big as a 1/2-inch hole for some of them, and about a 1/4-inch hole for the rest. Now,
I'll walk you through that entire process here. It's going to take a lot of patience, about two
hours' worth of time from start to finish in the driveway at home depending on whether or
not you have to uninstall a factory option. I'll walk you through it. Let's get started.
Tools used in the install include a drill and drill bits, ratchet, extension, and 10-millimeter
deep socket, Phillips head screwdriver, sharpie, center punch's recommended, some painter's tape,
needle-nose pliers, clean microfiber, and a soap and water mixture in a squirt bottle.
First up here, we're going to start on our table. We've got our spoiler face down on some
foam padding that came with the packaging just to protect the finish here. We have to install
a couple of the back-end plates in order to get it installed on our trunk lid. I'm going
to start here with the centerpiece, that's going to bolt down just like that in the middle. You're
going to grab a couple of Phillips head screws included in the kit, Phillips head screwdriver,
and I'm going to recommend some tape. The idea behind the tape is you want to tape the screw
to the screwdriver tip just because you have to go down pretty deep into this little panel here,
and it's just going to fall off if you don't have a tape together, so that's going to help things
out. So let's do that next. All right. So I've got my screw just taped to the end of my screwdriver
just enough to keep it from falling. I'm going to feed this guy in and screw it in place.
Once it's screwed, you should be able to pull that tape off. And if you need to,
at some point, you can go back in with some pliers to pull the excess tape out.
All right. At this point, guys, you just want to pull the rubber caps off of the threaded
holes there on all three. Next, we can put these end caps in place just like that using
the same method but we don't need the tape this time because it's a shallow enough hole.
All right. Once you know those guys are tightened down,
you can grab the end caps to cover up the screw holes.
Okay. Repeat that on the other side.
Next, we have to put the 3M strips over
each of the caps there. I'm going to grab an alcohol wipe and just clean off the area first
to make sure that that 3M gets a really good bond. We're going to remove any dirt and dust
or manufacturing dust or anything like that from the surface. Repeat this process with
an alcohol wipe on each of the surfaces and then let it dry and then we can put our 3M on.
All right. Peel off the backing, not the red. The red is going to contact the vehicle.
Peel off that tan backing there, and then you want to carefully feed this over those studs
and start at one of the corners to make sure it lines up properly and set this guy into place.
Put firm even pressure all around it to make sure it gets a good bond.
Repeat that on each one of the surfaces back here.
All right. Next up, you want to just pop your trunk. We have to remove the
trunk liner on the inside. There are two rubber stops up top, push pins all around,
and then we can just pop this latch cover off. These guys will twist straight off.
All right. I'm just going to set them inside the trunk for safekeeping.
From here, we can grab a panel removal tool to pop those off.
All right. For this guy, we're just going to pinch and pull off.
You want to feed the emergency trunk release through there and set this aside.
All right. At this point, you want to unfold or unroll the template here, and I find it easier to
cut it out just so you can see how it lines up. With the helping hand of a friend, you can help
line this guy up. Once you know exactly where you like it, make sure it's even on both sides,
you want to tape down the corners and the edge. You want this edge to be sort of flush with the
curve here right above the tail lights all the way around. Grab some painter's tape and tape it down.
All right. So, at this point, you can see with the spoiler perfectly in place on our template,
that the template marks are just a little bit off. They're not even on both sides.
So, with that said, I'm going to keep it exactly where I know I want it.
Grab a sharpie, and I'm just going to mark the circle around the studs so that we know where we
need to drill. All right. This is where that stud is going to go. Same thing for each of the studs.
This next part is not required, but I definitely recommend it. It's going
to help guide your drill bit. Grab a center punch. We're going to go straight to the middle
of those circles we made with our sharpie and mark it. That's going to help guide our initial
pilot hole so it's not dancing around scratching the paint. All right. Repeat that for each one.
All right. I'm going to start here with a smaller 1/8 drill bit, and we'll obviously
have to work our way up to the size. I'm unsure of what the size is at this point
but as we get larger and larger, we'll be able to test the stud.
All right. Next up, I'm jumping up to a 7/32.
At this point, we have enough of the holes drilled that we know exactly where the holes are,
so we can peel off this template. And then I'm going to put painter's tape
over the holes so that way, if the drill bit, for whatever reason, God forbid,
bounces, it can protect the paint. That way, you can protect that from
the scratches of the actual bit itself, but at this point, we can get rid of that template.
All right. After you test-fit your spoiler and you know that the holes are good,
you can peel off your tape here. And if you want to clean up the holes,
you absolutely can do so. Next step would be to clean off the entire trunk lid here
where the 3M is going to go underneath the spoiler to make sure it gets a good bond,
and then we'll tighten everything down. All right. Next up, I'm going to use a soap and water mixture
in my squirt bottle. I'm just going to wipe this guy here with a clean microfiber. You want to make
sure you're getting off all of the debris from the metal shavings of the drilling of the holes.
That way, you're not dragging metal across the paint that will scratch and damage your trunk lid.
We've already taken care of that, so at this point,
I'm just cleaning off with the soap and water mixture.
All right. Let this guy dry off then we'll be able to move forward. Now we've already taken care
of the other two, but with this last one here, you want to peel off the red backing on that 3M
and have a helping hand to help guide this on the trunk. All right. My buddy, Sage,
is going to help me guide this on just so we don't have the studs dancing around on the paint.
Now, when you put pressure, don't put pressure
on the top. Put pressure on the bottom of that bracket.
Boom, just like that. All right. So, we want to put pressure on that 3M,
making sure it sticks, and now we can bolt it down from the underside. Open up your trunk. On
each corner, there are grommets covering up the open holes there. Peel that guy off and
set that down. You have access to the stud on the inside. Do the same thing on each corner.
Next, I have a 10-millimeter socket on an extension and I have my nut
taped to the end of the socket. It's going to help us feed it onto the stud.
All right. So, we're doing this just like we did earlier on the table. Get that to tighten down.
I'm going to tighten it all the way down with this just to make sure it's really on there.
You don't want to risk dropping the nut in the trunk lid. All right. Put that on and you can
pull straight back, and if the tape doesn't come off, grab some pliers and pull that out.
Focusing on the center ones, they are a lot easier to get to, so grab your nut,
thread those on by hand. Again, just really be careful not to drop the nut in. Make sure it
catches that threading. Go all the way down by hand. Do the same thing for the one on the left.
Perfect. Now, we can tighten them down.
All right. From here, we can use our extension and the 10 deep socket to tighten down these guys.
I can take the extension off and do the middle.
All right. Now we can put the trunk liner back on, put things back together, and we're good to go.
Next, we can put our grommets back in place here on the open holes.
Remember to feed the emergency release back through the trunk liner,
clip it on up here using the trunk latch cover. Now, we can put all these guys back on.
Finally, the bump stops.
From here, you can shut your trunk and you're good to go.
That's going to wrap up my review and install for the
MP Concepts Performance Pack Style Rear Spoiler in the Primed Finish,
available for the '15 and newer Mustang. Get yours right here at americanmuscle.com.