(dramatic music)
- Hey I'm Evan Head of Engineering for RMStator.
Today we're working on a 1998 Polaris Sportsman 500
and we're going to show you how to install a new stator.
So here's one of our replacement stators.
And while you're doing this it's a great time
to go ahead and upgrade your flywheel.
You do have to remove the flywheel to get
to the stator on these so it's an excellent time
to install one of RMStator's upgraded flywheels
that have completely sealed magnets.
This prevents a pretty common and major problem
with the original flywheels on these.
So to get started you need access
to the right side of the motor.
You need to go ahead and remove your seat
so you can get the right side panel out of the way.
And remove the foot bed on the right side.
So we're going to get all that done then I'm going
to show you how to getting access to the side cover.
Alright so we have the right side
of the motor accessible now.
To remover the floorboard is just a couple
of Phillips head screws with bolts down here
to lift the floorboard up.
They also attach with one bolt apiece
to your front and rear fender.
So now that I've got that out of the way
we've have access to the side cover.
We need to kind of clear everything
out of the way so we can remove this.
We'll start with the foot brake here.
And this linkage has cotter pins on both sides.
Which I've already removed.
So I'm just going to slide them out of the way.
Okay then we need to remove the shift linkages here.
These just have a nut on the bottom of each side.
So I'm going to remove them.
Okay now that they're loose I can move
the recoil starter out of the way.
And slide the linkages out of the way.
Okay now I've already removed most of these.
They're eight millimeter bolts all the way around.
So I'm going to pull the last two out.
And then I can pop the side cover loose.
And you'll see the recoil start assembly in there.
So now that that's out of the way
you can go ahead and get the flywheel off.
Alright so to get the flywheel off you have to use a puller.
This type of flywheel has three threaded holes
that are equally spaced around the crankshaft here.
So you have to use a round puller like this
with three holes in it.
So I've got the bolts tightened up.
I've already loosened this but I'm just
showing you how to install it.
And then you have to slowly turn
your inner bolt here pressing against the crankshaft.
Until your flywheel comes loose.
So here's an original flywheel obviously
with the exposed magnets.
This one is still in good shape but
obviously we're replacing it.
So make sure that your Woodruff key is still installed
on the crankshaft here it can fall out
when you pull the flywheel off.
So just make sure you didn't lose it.
So now that you've got all that off
you're ready for the next step.
Okay so we're going to reinstall
this using our new RMStator flywheel.
And it just slides back on.
Make sure you line up the slot on the inside here
with the Woodruff key on the crankshaft.
So once you line that up and just press it in.
Okay and then we need to put our washer and nut
back in place.
So just slide that over.
Okay so that's on and then
I'm not going to completely finish this right now
but you would use you can use an impact wrench
to reinstall this.
It's the easiest way to do it or an impact gun.
And make sure that's completely tight
that will pull the flywheel all the way
in on the taper.
Okay so once that's done you can reinstall your side case.
There was a gasket used on this one.
Or you can use some RTV sealer.
And it just lines back up
and slides in place.
And you want to install your side cover bolts.
I'm just going to put a couple in place right now.
Reinstall those all the way around
and tighten them up.
And then we need to put the shift linkages back in place.
So I'm going to go ahead and drop that one in.
Make sure you put the nut back on the bottom of it.
And then install your other shift linkage at the back.
Same thing.
And then you need to install your brake lever down here.
Which slides through both linkages.
Make sure you put the cotter pins back in place
so this guy is locked up.
And after that you can reinstall your bodywork.
The foot bed and the side panel here
and then get your seat back in place.
So once that's all done you've
finished reassembling your motor
and you're ready to go.
Okay when we do any work on the charging system
it's always a good idea to do a final test
to make sure everything is working well.
So here I've got the seat removed
and the battery's kind of mounted
on the side of the frame here.
I have some alligator clips running
around to the battery terminals.
So we can get a good connection to it.
So basically we're just going to fire it up
and monitor the battery voltage.
And we want to see it get upwards of 14.6 volts.
14.7 or so that'd be what we want
to see it regulate around there.
And I'm going to go ahead and fire it up
and we'll see what happens.
(engine starts)
(engine running)
So perfect we see upwards of 14.6 volts
which says that we're getting good output
from the charging system and the regulator's working
fine holding the voltage down.
And then we'll see the meter drop
back down to the resting voltage.
Twelve, high 12s, 13.
So that's about it we know our charging
system is working fine and the Sportsman's ready to go.