[UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING]
Authenticity is claimed by everyone,
your jeans, your shirt, your socks, your coffee.
We are surrounded by claims of authenticity.
Even this animation is influenced by edits before it.
Is this authentic? What is authenticity?
What does it mean to be authentic?
Okay, let me think about that.
NARRATOR: As Carissa pondered the depth of the question,
at the exact moment in time, thousands of miles away,
Peter King, an ex-professional surfer,
felt compelled to ask the same question.
-What is authenticity? -What is it?
Yeah, to you. Am I authentic?
Yeah.
Why? Just because you like me? You think I'm authentic?
I think I am.
What is it? Describe it?
You're really going to have me answer this right now?
You don't know. You're tripping.
I can't give you a breakdown right now, I just can't do it.
This caused some confusion, so we got back to Riss.
To just be yourself and to be proud of that.
To embrace all of who you are.
To know that you are made imperfectly perfect,
and that you are here for a purpose and to not try to be someone else.
NARRATOR: In a world where your every move is analyzed,
where does genuine begin and where does it end?
You see, when we are young, we are who we are.
We are real. Happy, sad, a sister, a fairy,
we jump around with a hose and sing the bum song.
We surf and get interviewed by dad.
CHRIS MOORE: Wow, okay. Who's your favorite surfer?
Daddy.
NARRATOR: We are genuine, authentic. But when the world gets involved,
our very social, scrutinizing world gets involved...
There's just so many different distractions
and things that are trying to mold you
or change you into something that you're not.
NARRATOR: Then who is an authentic Carissa Moore?
Her media-trained response on how she feels after losing is this.
Yeah, it is what it is
and I just didn't make the best decisions
and she surfed really well.
And I think I just have to go back and take a look at it
and figure out what to do moving forward.
NARRATOR: When what she actually wants to say is.
How do you think I feel?
I feel like [BLEEP]. I just lost. I'm not in the contest.
NARRATOR: These are her different smiles.
And this is Riss bored at an interview.
What gives it away?
Are we done? Hello Peter. In a half hour.
NARRATOR: She refers to herself as a goofball. This is what she means.
And to break this goofing around up, she likes to take naps.
I love to nap. Anytime, anywhere, I can nap.
I've taken 200 naps this year, or more.
No, 300 naps.
There's probably only 65 days out of the year that I haven't napped.
NARRATOR: In between naps, she does this.
This is Riss in her happy place.
Popular psychology refers to this as state of flow,
also known colloquially as being in "the zone".
It is the mental state in which a person
performing an activity is fully immersed
in a feeling of energized focus, full involvement,
and enjoyment in the process of the activity.
But don't take my word for it.
Here is Teahupo'o virtuoso Matahi Drollet,
from Tahiti to explain.
that's when you go from super-fast, to super slow"
NARRATOR: Here's Matahi going from super-fast to super slow.
From super-fast to super slow. And then Riss decided to join in.
Super-fast to super slow. Okay, let's wrap this section up.
Take it home, Matahi.
NARRATOR: Thank you, Matahi.
Further exploring athlete psychology,
the inner sanctum of surfer and coach
is a private, safe space.
A place where they look out on the ocean
and whisper their strategy for success.
Our crew, unaware of the privacy conduct,
managed to record this rare exchange moments before the final.
Here they talk about getting ice cream
after the heat, with all the toppings,
nuts, raisins, caramel, marshmallows, just throw it on there.
Yeah, a couple of scoops.
Caroline disagreed.
She likes sorbet and quickly insisted that they got lemon.
Mitch responded, "Sorbet is disgusting."
Caroline laughed them off.
I don't like repeating stuff, because it's not authentic.
NARRATOR: Okay, forget it, let's move on.
So, I mean it does get challenging at times.
I feel like I have to constantly check in and be like,
"Oh, does this make me feel good? Is this who I am?"
I have to take a second and listen to my intuition and my gut.
NARRATOR: As highlighted before, we all claim authenticity,
so instead of talking further,
we thought we would show you a few real authentic moments.
[UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING]
I like being interviewed by people I like.
Questionable. Nah, I love you guys.
Right now we are in Hossegor, France, for the Roxy Pro,
and that is the seventh event on tour.
I think. Seventh, eighth, ninth.
No, wait. No, eighth event.
So we have three more to go before it's all over.
No, I cannot, but I can do a funky accent like this.
What do you think? What did you say? Can we start again?
Can you ask me again?
It's so funny because literally I'm doing this interview
and I'm staring in this little view, Lakey Peterson is right there.
And just for perspective, she's like...
we're pretty much tied for the yellow jersey right now, so.
JOE TURPEL: Number one and two in the world,
the super heat matchup that everyone knew was coming.
And all friendships, everything left on the sand.
COMMENTATOR 4: Lakey utilizing her priority,
oh, you can tell that there's a bit of frustration there from Lakey.
Carissa Moore, beautiful right hander opening up in front of her.
COMMENTATOR 5: She's on a little magic carpet, I think,
and she just looked like she had so much flow coming into it.
COMMENTATOR 4: Carissa Moore advancing into the Roxy Pro final.
Come on Lakey, there is more waves this year.
That was smart. Good job Riss. Good Job
All right, so Riss is in the finals.
-What? -What my chicken, what?
And it's all just happy, good, go lucky thoughts from here on out
and hopefully she can get barreled on the inside and call it a day.
[HAPPY MUSIC PLAYING]
Even if she's far off of our spot?
Yeah, I'd stick with her.
Unless you see something really consistent where you are
and there's a set coming, whatever, but don't give her any opportunities.
COMMENTATOR 6: Needs around about an eight point ride
to get herself back in it.
JOE TURPEL: Driving into this left hand wall,
going for the throw tail reverse. Just losing it just a little bit.
Hold the rail on the back end, Carissa Moore,
turning this final into a shootout of her own.
[TRIUMPHANT MUSIC PLAYING]
-Good job, baby. -Thank you!
You put on a good final.
Aw, thanks guys!
I'm so stoked.
You wanted to get barrels, you got barrels.
[PHONE RINGS]
Hey, that was amazing, that was so sick.
Thanks Dad. I'm so happy.
I'm so proud of you right now. That was...
I cannot believe you got those two barrels
so back to back like that, that was incredible.
Thanks so much. It just felt so good to get barreled.
It was beautiful, it was really amazing.
Thanks Dad, I can't wait to see you. Thanks for staying up to watch.
That was sick, I'm so proud of you.
Love you. All right, bye. Ahh Gage, Gage texted.
It was the coolest vision when … and Luke raised me up,
just the crowd was the sickest crowd I've ever seen.
Thank you Joe. What's up?
Can you tell her congrats?
-Congrats Italo -Thank you, you too.
Thank you. Thanks so much.
-Congratulations. -Congratulations to you.
I'm so stoked for you. That was a really great win.
That was awesome. Oh, it was so cool.
I've actually never spent time surfing here
so I didn't have any expectations
and when I got those two I was elated.
And to share it with the crowd
that was literally five feet from me was so cool.
One more time for Carissa Moore,
your champion, now for the third time here at the Roxy Pro finals.
We get to go out and party tonight.
[FESTIVE MUSIC PLAYING]
-Maybe. PETER HAMBLIN: Sing something.
No. I'm not just going to break out in song right now.
This is so weird. can you come back to that one?
Oh, I can't, I can't.
♪I've been awake for a while now You got me feeling like a child now♪
♪Every time I see your bubbly face I get the tingles in a silly place♪