Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com.
Today we're going to be taking a look at our boots on the CV axle on our 2016 Polaris Ranger
900XP.
If you've got a cut in yours, you want to go ahead and do it now.
Otherwise, you could be replacing your whole axle.
So, let's head over to the table and talk about the tools you're gonna need to pull
this off.
Welcome to the tool table.
This is going to be a skill level 2, but it's really not gonna be that difficult.
It's pretty much basic tools, but I need to walk you through to make sure you at least
have these to have a chance at pulling this off.
you want to have a ball-peen hammer as well as a couple of different soft-blow hammers.
As always, you need a couple of good torque wrenches and our breaker bar.
On the socket side, your range needs to go from 15mm up to 27.
Have a good 3/8ths ratchet, 15mm wrench, screwdriver, a chisel, and then some type of soft-metal
drift.
Other than that, depending on how you want to take apart the bands, you're going to need
a set of side cutters, needlenose pliers, and really that's it for the basic tools.
There is one specialty tool that you're gonna need.
They call this a CV joint plier.
So, you're going to need to pick up a pair of those, otherwise you're not gonna pull
this off.
As far as the parts go, if you would, reference our exploded parts diagrams.
That's going to give you a great picture of where everything is located on the machine.
And on this particular machine, you have two separate boots for the inner and for the outer.
You want to make sure you order the correct one.
Well, once you've got all your tools and your parts together, we can go over there and knock
this thing out.
So let's go.
Alright, let's start by breaking the lug nuts loose, then we can lift it up and get that
tire off.
Alright guys, with our tire out of the way, we want to pull this cotter pin, then we're
gonna remove the castle nut.
Alright, and keep in mind there are actually two thrust washers on the outside and they
have kind of a beveled edge and you want to make sure that they go back in the same way
they came out.
Then, we're going to take the upper mount for the upper A-arm, disconnect it, and that
should give us enough room to pull the hub down and then get the drive shaft out.
See, it's not frozen in the hub so that's good.
That worked out pretty well.
Be careful about how much tension is on your caliper because I don't want to rip that line
coming into it.
Now, we should be able to grab this and just pull it out of the transmission.
You want to do several small but firm pulls against it.
So there you go.
Let's head over to the teardown bench and get these boots replaced.
Alright guys, let's start off by getting all four of these clamps off.
They're a compression type, so there's really no easy way to get these things off.
We're going to try a couple of different techniques and see which one works best.
First one, I'm just gonna use a chisel up under the leading edge and see if we can knock
it off that way.
Alright, that wasn't that bad.
Next, just for kicks, we can try cutting it off with a set of side cutters.
I don't think this is going to work very well but we're gonna give it a shot.
Well, not very graceful, but that worked as well.
Now, my preferred method.
A cut-off wheel.
And they're done.
Alright, so we've got our clamps out of the way.
The next thing we need to do is actually push the outer CV boot up onto the axle, and then
you're going to see the inner workings of the actual CV joint itself.
and we want to go to the very innermost part and we're going to hit with a soft piece of
metal and a hammer right at the edge of the splines right in here.
Just as close as we can get to the actual axle itself.
Hopefully knock the joint off the end of the shaft.
That's what we're after.
There she goes.
With that knocked off let's remove both of our boots and then we can start putting this
back together.
The real trick here, guys is if you see a rip in one of your boots, do something about
it right then.
Otherwise, you keep running it, let the grease get thrown out, and worse yet, dirt and mud
whatever gets put into it, the joint is just going to get destroyed.
These are still in good shape, so we're just going to add in a little bit of grease, put
on the new boots, and we're going to be good to go.
Alright, let's go ahead and get the inner one pulled on.
That's the smaller of the two.
We did a little bit of cleaning up, but what you want to make sure of is this edge here,
you want to keep it grease-free, because that's where the rubber needs to get locked on to
the outer part of the joint.
So when we get ready to put the additional grease in, want to go further inside on the
actual boot.
That way it doesn't work its way out.
And a little bit more on the joint.
And bring the boot up.
There we go.
Bring this down until it gets past that little edge.
Then you're gonna feel it kinda drop into that groove.
Now, lets go ahead and put our bands on this end.
To do this you have to have this tool.
Otherwise, good luck.
What you're gonna do is pinch it on either side and then that center section keeps it
flat as its compressing it.
Now, let's just do the larger one.
Same technique.
Make sure your boot is pulled all the way up and in its groove.
There it is.
One down, one to go.
Now here's an important step.
The small clamp?
Go ahead and put it on there.
Not that I've ever made that mistake before.
Boot in place.
Grab our joint.
Make sure she's lined up and just tap it on.
Same game.
Fill up the boot with some grease, put as much as we can on the joint.
And then slide it up.
Alright, that's over that end.
Get it back into its slot up here.
Alright, that's in place.
Let's get those clamps snugged down.
Go ahead and do our inner.
Now go for the large one.
Make sure it's lined up.
alright guys, before we do the installation, I've already gotten the splines cleaned up
on the CV joints-- or the CV axle rather.
What we want to do is go ahead and grease them back up, because if you don't, when and
if you ever have to pull it back apart you're going to have a really tough time because
it will have essentially welded itself in there with rust.
Just regular bearing grease will do, it doesn't have to be anything special.
But you do want to make sure it's a good quality grease, that way it doesn't get washed out
so to speak.
Alright, with that done, let's go ahead and install it.
What we're going to do is insert this end back up into the transmission.
And you want to make sure the splines kinda seat in.
But the trick is you have to get it over this little clip on the end.
That's going to take a little bit of pressure.
To do that, we're just going to hit it gently on the end with a dead-blow hammer.
Almost.
Okay.
That bottomed out.
Next, we just need to guide it back inside that bearing and then bring our hub up.
Now you also have to line up the splines in the hub.
There they go.
Now we can bring down our A-arm and get that upper bolt through once we get it lined back
up.
Alright, then, remember you've got your washer and then the nut and we're going to torque
this to 40 foot-pounds.
Next, lets get our two beveled washers and we're going to get on our castle nut, snug
it down, then take it to 110 foot-pounds.
To do that, I'm going to have somebody get up inside the cab and hold the brakes for
me.
That should do it.
I'm going to bring it just a tick more because I need enough room to get that cotter pin
in there.
That should do it.
Alright, next, we need to install the cotter pin.
The way Polaris does it from the factory, they push it through and they bend up both
sides and then go back onto the end of the half-shaft.
Alright guys, we're almost through with this.
The only thing I need to do now is install the tire, snug it down, then I'm going to
lower the unit down, and do the final torque of 120 foot-pounds.
Well, guess what guys?
That's it.
We've wrapped this project up.
Well listen, if you need any parts for your machine, why don't you come see us at Partzilla.com
and we can get you taken care of.
Have any questions or comments?
Leave them in the section below and I'll do my best to answer them.
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