Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today we're going to be
doing some work on a 2018 Honda Grom. Today we're going to be focused on the
clutch system, but while we're in there we're gonna go ahead and install a
high-flow oil pump. But there are also a couple of other parts that we're gonna
need. Now once again, we went to Koso North for the majority of our parts.
We've got the clutch kit and we're also installing a lifter. Here's our oil pump.
Now in addition to that, there's a couple other pieces that you're going to need
that are OEM. You're gonna need a gasket for that cover and then the bearing that actually
goes inside of this lift plate. The neat thing about this one? When we're through
building it, we're actually going to give it away. So if you would, check the link
in the description below. It'll carry you to a landing page where you can enter to
win. But if the contest is already over, why don't you leave us a little note in
the comment section and tell us what machine you'd like to see me modify and
then us giveaway. Now as far as the special tools, here they are. First one I
want to talk about is this adapter that's going to pull two different nuts:
one that holds the main nut for the clutch, and the other ones for what they
call the oil spinner. This one part will actually do both of those. The other
thing that you're going to need is something to hold the gear still. Now
Honda makes one for this process. Just have that in the gears when they come
together, that it's going to hold everything still and not damage the
gears. Now that we've got our parts and our special tools assembled, we can go
over there and get started.
We're going to start this process by laying in our fiber plates, and we're
just going to pour a quart of oil so they can soak while we're pulling the
rest of the machine apart. I'm just using standard GN4 oil. Nothing special. We
just don't want to put the plates in dry because if we do that,
there's a chance that they'll never pick up the oil and immediately start tearing
themselves apart. Let's put that to the side. Next we're going to go ahead and
drop the oil out of the machine. You just need a 17 millimeter to do that. The bolt
you're looking for is right here. Now we probably could have used the oil out of
it to soak our plates, because this machine has I think, two miles on it. Yep,
looks brand new. So we've got our plates soaking, all the oils drained out, let's
go ahead and reinstall our drain plug. Now let's go ahead and get our brake
lever out of the way. Instead of removing the entire bracket, we're just gonna
remove the pivot point right here, and that should allow it to drop down far
enough clear the case. Now let's go for this bracket up top that holds the
clutch cable. We should just be able to remove the bracket with it still bounded
to the cable and then release it from the clutch arm. There she goes.
Now what Honda wants you to do is actually just remove the other bolts and
a criss cross pattern. They're all loose now. We're just going to buzz them out.
Now when we pull this cover, it's going to drool some oil onto the exhaust
system, and I'm not really worried about that at the moment because we are gonna
be replacing it. But if you were not, it'd be a good idea to cover it up so you
don't have so much of a mess to clean up later. And all these bolts? They all look
to be the same length. But before you pull the cover, make sure you remove the
dipstick, otherwise it's going to get caught on that centrifugal filter. Next,
let's get off this cover. To make this a little bit easier, they actually make a
special tool to go in the gearing here to hold
all of the still. That's not absolutely necessary, just sits in there like this.
You could actually use just a piece of aluminum, let the gears bind down on it.
Just make sure you remove it when you put it back together. Now if things
weren't Loctite-ed, that wouldn't be a big deal just breaking it loose. But yeah,
I'm having to put a fair amount of effort and it'd be really tough to hold
this still with your hands. So to pull this off, you'll need a Honda
special tool to actually get in there and grab that particular bolt. Lay
everything out in the same sequence that it comes out. We'll definitely need to
clean this up before we put it back together. Tell you what, let's go ahead and get the
gasket off. Oh and for once Honda used a gasket that you could actually remove.
Those greenish type gaskets are so well made they're extremely difficult to get
off. That's usually the most arduous part of this is getting all the residual-- like
right here-- pull it off. And this one has come off rather smoothly. With that plate
down, let's reach in and remove this bearing.
Hopefully it'll come out smoothly. So with the bearing out of the way, it is
time to go ahead and release that inner bolt. I've seen them come apart with just,
you know, holding the gear still, but sometimes those springs aren't quite
tight enough to hold everything still to get that bolt to release. So this is one
of the few times I'll use an impact. I don't really mind using them to take
something apart, I'm never using them to put something together. With that off,
we're gonna take out this outer plate and want to do that a couple of turns at
a time, as to not damage the bolts and where the threads they're going into on
the inner part of the clutch. Now the reason we're doing all this is
increasing the displacement and the air flow in the head. I mean I'm doing
programming, a different throttle body, and it's just gonna put too much stress
on the factory clutch. By going with the Koso unit, it should be able to deal
with the additional torque and the horsepower that this thing is going to
develop. Because you can look at the diameter of the stock springs versus the
Koso springs, you can visually see the difference and you can also feel the
difference. I mean I can just about compressed that one all the way just
with my fingers, and I can maybe get the Koso unit halfway. So that's going to put
a lot more pressure onto the plates that's gonna allow them to hold together
better. Now here's where it's important to mark how things come apart, because we
want this part to be in the same orientation with the back. What I think
we'll do here is just pull off the whole assembly, because putting it back
together it'll be easier to do that on the table and then just bring it up.
There we go.
Watch your washer. Once again, lay things out as you're
taking them apart. Makes it a whole lot easier to put back together when you're
done. I'm gonna go ahead and lift out the clutch pack as an assembly. Pretty much
one piece. Just lay this to the side. Here's the part I wanted to show you.
When you go to put this back together, we get it like this. Let's go one off.
See that? It will not engage and go all the way down. It has to go as it was
taken apart like that. Because if you don't do that correctly, it's not gonna
put any pressure on the plates and you're just gonna burn up a brand new
clutch. So make sure you match this up. And if you forget to match it, well just
keep going step by step by step until you can get it to go back in. And that's
right there. So important little tip there. Otherwise you're never going to
get this to work right. When you're putting this back together, make sure
this washer doesn't get left out. And now we can start stacking our clutch back
together. So I know on some of the older Groms you
actually had different fiber discs. You had to go with a certain order as you were
coming out. On this particular kit from Koso, all the fibers are the same so it
doesn't matter how they are stacked. And the best you can, eyeball it to where the
teeth are actually lined up. That'll make it easier when we go to put this section
together. And now we're just going to alternate back and forth until the stack
is complete. Looks like I've got most of the teeth aligned well enough. Now we can
drop this back in. Now with that set in place, let's go ahead and get it and that
oil tray back in position. There we go. She's all the way down. Now our washer.
And we'll just put this bolt on hand tight. Take note of where your threads
are when it comes time to bring plate up. Our springs in place. This is where
gravity is not really your friend. It may be easier just put the machine on its
side to do this, but we will work it out. We'll get all three of them started and
then make sure all of our springs are sitting like they're supposed to. Now as
we're bringing these back in doing two or three turns at a time, going from one
to the other. Alright, looks like everybody's bottomed out now. Now we're
gonna grab our torque wrench and set these to 9 foot-pounds. That's it.
Alright, those two 10 millimeters that are holding that little oil tray, getting
them back in. Now we're going to switch gears and turn our attention to the oil
pump, because now it'd be the perfect time to go ahead and get it swapped out.
Now the reason we're doing this is because we want more oil flow. With this
modification it increases the amount of pressure, hence, more oil gets circulated
more often inside the engine. Now there are other kits that are available, but
the amount of modifications that I'm doing to it, it should make a really safe
and reliable machine without having to go any further. There's both the dowels,
stayed in the casing. Now what we need to do is take off the circlip, disassemble
this, and then actually reassemble it using the same circlip with our new
housing and internals. Your plate.
It may not tell you in the manual to do this, but I believe if it's an exposed bolt,
especially like this on the inside of an engine I'm gonna put Loctite on it.
Now, pin through your gear. I'll put the shaft through once you get it along
properly. There she is. Then just get our E-clip back in. I
think I can do this without piercing myself. There she goes. That should do it.
Now just bolt it back in place. A little bit more Loctite, then we'll take
each one of these to 9 foot-pounds. Be careful when you're doing this. Make sure
that your teeth are aligned on the gears, otherwise you could snap them as you're
pushing it back in. If this is the first time you've been into your engine and
you've got some miles on it, now is a good time to clean out this little
strainer right here. I expected mine to be perfect because, like I said, this
thing had two miles on it when we rolled it in the shop. But if yours has a few on
it, now's the time to check that and go and get it cleaned out. Now the other
aspect that you need to look at is the centrifugal oil filter or spinner-- I
think that's what it's commonly called. It has a little bit of trash in it,
chances are that yours probably has a lot. So now's the time to get this
cleaned out. Okay, before we get the spinner put back on, let's go ahead and
torque that main bolt going to our clutch basket.
Both of these nuts actually go to 47 foot-pounds. At this point we can go
ahead and put our bearing back in. Make sure that the lettering is facing out.
There we go. Next, let's put the spinner back on, its washer and then this nut. Get
our holder in place.
There we go. We're getting close now guys.
Now this is one gasket I did not reorder, but actually this one looks to be in
good shape so we're gonna go ahead and pop it back on.
I know these had Loctite on when we took them apart, so they're definitely getting
Loctite to go back together. Use our holder one more time.
Our dowels are in place, let's go get our new gasket up. Stay. All these bolts are
the same lengths. Just don't forget these little brackets and we'll do that
one last with the clutch cable on it so we can get the cable back. There we go.
Now let's put 9 foot pounds on all those. Let's get that last one. Next let's
bring our brake pedal back up into position. Alright guys,
only thing I have to do next is just fill it up with oil, but seeing how I'm
gonna go into this engine a little bit further we're not going to fill it up at
this point in time. Well listen, why don't you go and hit that link down below and
enter to win this machine when I'm through with it. If you're curious as to
what I'm going to be doing next, why don't you go ahead hit that subscribe button. That
way you'll know. Well listen, we just want to say thank you for shopping here with
us at partzilla.com, and if you need any parts for your machine-- whether it be for
a Grom or whatever-- we've got them. So come see us. Once again, thank you and we
will see you in the next video. Y'all have a great day.