Hey YouTube, Donnie Smith here
and welcome to the last video
in the Integra Series.
In this video, we're gonna show you
how we unmask this car, get it out of the shop
and then we're gonna show you how to adjust a fender.
(intense music)
Okay, before you just jump in there and start unmasking,
there's something to consider.
Did you get a bunch of runs, is there a lot of dirt in it,
are you gonna have to do a lot of buffing,
'cuz if you are, a lot of times I will leave it masked.
I might have to cut some access holes in the windows
so I can see to get it backed out in the shop,
but then I'll leave all this masked up,
and what that will do is whenever you're buffing
all the polishes and compounds,
it will prevent all that getting
in your cracks and crevices
and really make a lot faster clean-up
when you go to clean it up.
But in the case of this car, it came out pretty clean.
We didn't have any runs
so we're just gonna go ahead and unmask it.
Now, to get that super-mirror look,
to get it like a show car,
you will need to buff and polish
but you gotta think about this:
this is a repair job
and the goal is to make an invisible repair,
where it's not noticeable.
So if we get this door and hood and fender
and we sand them out and polish them
and make them look mirror, show-quality,
that's not gonna match the rest of the car.
Because from the factory, there is some orange peel
so we really don't want it to look a lot slicker on the car
'cuz that would be noticeable.
So with this masking, it's very important,
if you notice how I've been going around pushing back
on the mask, just pushing it back away from the panel,
and this will eliminate any problems that you may have,
especially if the clear coat kind of bridged
to the tape, and you pull forward,
that might pull a chunk of clear with it.
So always just push that tape back down.
That makes a real nice mask job,
you can't really notice that it's even been painted there.
It does really, really good.
But just be careful with that, though,
don't pull forward on that masking tape.
So I'm going around just getting all this up, pushed down.
Once we get it all pushed down and away,
we can lift the hood
and we can start removing all the plastic.
And we did use just plastic on this job,
but that can be a problem as well.
That can cause some problems
if you didn't follow the tips in that one video,
'cuz I have seen it to where the air pressure
hits that plastic and that plastic moves around
and then some of that paint, primer, sealer,
or whatever you had,
might pop off and flake into the finish.
But if you keep this plastic pulled tight
and use that adhesion promoter, you shouldn't have a problem
but to be safe, you might still outline it
with some 12 or 18-inch paper
and then put your plastic on that just to be safe.
All right, we've about got this unmasked
and I really like this part,
I really love it whenever it's been in the booth,
now it's painted and didn't have no problems,
you don't have to sand and buff
and now we can just get it out in the shop and get it ready.
Feels good.
Now I'm just showing you here,
there's a stop there that adjusts how high
that window can go up and down.
I don't know why that's loose on this one,
we didn't need to loosen that,
it must have previously been loose,
but you can see how it moves up and down
and that determines how high the window can roll up,
so if your window's hitting the roof,
you need to lower that a little bit.
And now a trick I'm showing you
so you don't lose your nuts and bolts,
is just use a piece of tape, put it over your socket there,
and then that pushes in, and now you can wiggle it around
and you're not gonna drop it in the door
when you're trying to get it in there to get that started.
So I am basically just going around
reversing a lot of what I did, the parts that I took off,
the belt molding, I'm putting that on,
I've already got the side molding on,
and got the door handle on,
I'll get the mirror and put that on,
and basically just reversing the process
of what I did when I took everything off.
Now on the fender,
there's gonna be a little adjustment on that,
and we'll go over that here in just a minute.
So on this mirror, it's got the wire that needs to plug in
so I'm gonna feed it through the opening first,
and then it's got three bolts on the back side
that I'll have to screw on.
But it's always a good feeling
whenever you get something done
and you don't have a lot of buffing to do.
'Cuz that really does take a lot of time.
Especially if you just did a complete paint job,
that is a lot of time.
So what I'm doing now is, I'm protecting this door
'cuz we're about to put the fender on.
Last thing you wanna do is damage one of the panels
you just painted and you'll be re-doing it again,
so I'm getting some tape just to protect that edge
in case I bump it a little bit installing the fender.
Now I've got the fender, I'm gonna put it on
and the way I put fenders on, I just set them on there,
kind of adjust them the best they can,
and then I'm gonna go through some steps
to make the flushness right and make the body gaps right.
So I've got it sitting on there
and then I'm gonna get all the nuts and bolts
and I'm gonna go ahead and put them all in
but only hand-tight.
You do not want to tighten anything at this time.
So I've got my label bag
so I'm not looking for screws and things like that,
and that's important, like in one of the previous videos,
you talk about bag and tag.
Now that's when that comes in handy,
you're gonna be putting it all back together
where everything's at.
So I'm getting all those hand-tight,
and there's one in the bottom here,
couple more in the front.
Now on these fenders, I'm gonna get,
like I said, they're all hand-tight,
and then I'm gonna use paint sticks.
Now they also have body gap gauges
that you can use that measure them,
but if you will make the gaps
look about the same on both sides,
I'm using a paint stick to kind of
get an idea of what the gap is there,
and then that's how I will adjust this fender to the door,
so we've got to adjust the fender to the door,
so that's the area we're gonna work on first.
I'm gonna work on this top edge,
and this paint stick is gonna help
get the right gap width and once I've got the gap width,
I can push that fender in and out
to get the correct flushness,
and then I'm gonna tighten that upper bolt there,
that one bolt, and get that tight,
and that will hold it all in place,
I can take the paint stick out
and it will still be in place.
So I'll have the correct gap, the correct flushness.
And now I'll go to the bottom of the fender and adjust that.
Same thing, I'll use a stick, and you've gotta be careful,
you don't want to scratch the paint
so be careful with the paint sticks,
but I'll go down there and adjust the flushness
and adjust the gap on that and tighten that up.
Now you have the fender adjusted to the door.
And now all the front bolts,
you still want to leave those loose
so you can adjust it to the hood when you shut it.
Now a thing to keep in mind,
don't throw the fender on there
and just open the door wide open,
'cuz if it's too close it's gonna hit,
it's gonna ruin your paint, could dent it again,
and the hood, when you go to shut it,
just don't shut it real hard and let it slam
because if that fender's in too far,
it's gonna slam on top of the fender.
So always open your door slow
until you see that adjustment's gonna work,
the hood, lower it real slow,
so that you can kind of tell what's gonna happen
before two panels hit each other.
And then, once you have everything adjusted,
the gaps look good, the flushness looks good,
then, you can go around and tighten the whole fender,
tighten all the bolts and nuts and everything
and make it secure.
And I don't have the footage,
but of course gonna have to put the front bumper on
the headlights and all that,
and then we will be finished with this job.
So here's a quick photo of what it looked like before
and one after, or almost after,
we've still got a little bit to do.
So as I've mentioned on other videos before,
this footage was lost for a long time and I found it,
but this is all I found,
I don't know what happened to the part
where I'm putting the front bumper on the headlights,
but basically, if you're wondering,
just go back to those videos where I removed them
and just kind of reverse the process.
But I was really glad to find this much of it
where we get it painted and clear-coated
and basically completed.
Well, that wrapped up this video
and this video series.
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And remember, if something's worth doing,
do your best and have a blast doing it.
Thanks for watching, take care,
and we'll see you in the next video.
(truck engine roaring)
(cheer)