The way that this particular truck is set up and the way I think I'm going
to set up all these kits from now on and if something changes in the future, I apologize,
I'll try to note the videos. I try to do my best. I've been improving this product and
I really appreciate everybody sticking with me. If you're a repeat customer, thank you very much.
The new kits on the reverse and tail and headlight DRL, I'm gonna put these pins on for you.
Especially on the Fords, on the two and the ten foot wires. This will be your input output
for your reverse or tail. This kit, being reverse, we're gonna be working with those white reverses.
On this connector right here on the driver's side, the reverse wire you're looking for is this one
right here. It is a green with a brown stripe. It is located right here in this pin, opposite the
locking mechanism right here on this side. You can verify this with our pin out diagram as well but
that is the wire. Now the way that we're gonna do with these pins, the way this connection works is
you need to pop up this and you're gonna pull this pin out. We're going to replace it with our white
wire. Our white wire is our output. This, going to the actual light, that's our output of the flasher.
Then, we're going to take the pin we slid out and be careful that you remember which terminal
you take it out of, which location. We're going to take that pin and we're going to mate it right
here. We've got the male pin on this side that we can mate it right into there. Now these male pins
sometimes have a little bump sticking up on them right here. You can see on this one, we flattened
it out, it's right on top there. Sorry, the focus is killing me. Anyways, if it's got a little bump still
on it, flatten it out with a pair of pliers. It's not a big deal. There we go. Right on the top there, we
flattened out the little bump. If I forgot one, I'm sorry, go ahead and flatten it out. Otherwise
it seems like it pokes through the heat shrink. So you'll put that right into the factory wire
and then you're going to use the included piece of adhesive lined heat shrink to cover it all up.
This new method avoids cutting the factory wire. Now if you would prefer to cut the
factory wire, hallelujah, you go right ahead. We're also offering connectors if you really
really are uncomfortable de-pinning this, we can get you a plug and play connector at an additional
cost. Email in if you really need that but for the most part, we're gonna be able to pop this apart.
Now let me put this camera on a stand and show you exactly what I mean. Alrighty, so here we are. We're
at the connector. First thing you can do is you get a little screwdriver and you're gonna pop up
this little white retainer ring like this. It pops up fairly easy.
You're not gonna pop it all the way off. You're just gonna pop it up a little bit. See?
That's all it really needs right like that. Okay, the next thing you're going to do, I have a hat
pin here that I'm using but a paper clip will work just fine, is you're going to take note of which
terminal your reverse wire is in. Right now, it's in this one. We slide this right
in that little retainer hole right here below it like this. I'll try to zoom in and show you.
There. See? Now what you do there is you push this in a little bit harder, a little bit further,
and it kind of locks in and that allows you- when this is inserted, it allows you to back the wire
out of the connector. See I'm pulling that wire out? Look at that. The wire is coming all the way out.
Now pay attention when the wire comes out. Do you see this? It has a little bitty bump on the top
here. That's that bump I was telling you to flatten out on the other one. You don't need to flatten
it out on this one. Leave it on that one. That's actually the retaining pin but what you want to do
is you want to make sure that that little bump on the new one is also facing up
in the same direction and then you simply install this right back into the same hole.
It'll fight you a little bit as it first goes in because it needs to get through the rubber
seal that's in there. Just hold it with a firm grip and slide it in like that and when it goes in far
enough, you will hear a click. It'll push. It'll be a resistance and it'll click in place and then
it won't come back out because I've removed that pin now. You can see I popped the pin out and now
the wire, once it clicks in, it will not back out. The final step is to snap this back down and now
you've basically replaced that wire from the factory. You've backed it out of that connector
and you've kept the waterproofing in this whole connector series. Everything is still waterproof
and the last step in the process- so the final
process here is we're going to slide the heat shrink over the factory wire all the way down
and we're going to take our input, this is the input to the Auto Flasher. Of
course, looking for that factory signal and we're going to match those pins up
actually like that. If you match them up, they're nice and level like that. That's a male and female
pin, they're meant to go together. So you slide those together and now you're going to slide the
heat shrink over that. Don't pull them apart. Sorry the camera's kind of screwing with me.
Don't pull them apart on accident when you're putting the heat shrink together.
It's easy to do. Keep them nice and tight together.
Heat shrink over it and now when you shrink that all down, later, if
you wanted to cut it off and get rid of it and put it put it back to stock, you could.
So that's the method. One piece of heat shrink, no cutting on the factory wire, slide it
out. That's gonna be, I believe, the way we're gonna do the majority of these now. As I
said, if you want the adapters, we'll be able to purchase those separately. They'll be on the site
ASAP but I really don't think they're necessary. I think that this is the way to do it with the pins.