what's up i'm jonathan and welcome to maker tales this video is all about trying to fix
this spiral didgeridoo because as you see there's a great big hole in it now the plan is to try and
use photogrammetry resin 3d printing and just a dash of blender to create a patch
that's going to fit as perfect as possible and then from there we'll see if it works at all
i have no idea what the result of this video is but let's get straight into it
and on that lovely note the first thing we obviously need is a photogrammetry you
can see here i just get straight onto doing a photogrammetry if you have no idea how to do a
photogrammetry don't worry i have an entire video that tells you everything you need to
know it's the photogrammetry survival guide it's linked to down in the description or in the cards
the key thing that i did differently here is i just took a lot more extra photos
of the actual break itself with all those photos then taken i chucked them all into mesh room and
start computing my first initial point cloud looks exactly what i'm expecting and from this
point i just jump straight into mesh filtering making sure that i add a little meshing bounding
box so that i only have the mesh that i actually want to use the resulting mesh looks really good
so i plop this all into blender when you import a photogrammetry into blender sometimes it comes
out absolutely massive or tiny in this case it was less than two millimeters thankfully
i did my entire photogrammetry with my little 3d printed scale guide inside of the photogrametry
so i can use the two points that are inside the photogrammetry itself so that i know that these
two points need to be 10 centimeters apart so i can scale everything up to the correct dimensions
after one quick little size check i was expecting 8.4 and i got 8.41 i knew that i was working with
correct dimensions and now it came to making the patch itself to start it off i just play around
with some curves and then i use inside of geometry bevel i use that to give it some geometry to the
actual curve itself once i'm happy with how that's looking i do the same for the inside
then once i have that done it's time to get this to do a nice sort of slice boolean cut with it
now that is something that's a lot harder than it sounds just due to the sheer number of vertices
here we're working with 1.8 million so it gets a little bit complicated so the best thing to do is
just to clean up everything that we don't need so i literally delete everything that isn't the edge
of the break itself and then now that i just have that nice clean edge i double check that all the
actual sort of intersection point of the curve that i've created as well as the geometry of
the photogrammetry meets properly how i'd expect it and then i'll be able to get a nice
simple clean boolean from it it took a little bit of playing about with it but by the end of it i
got this result right here from this point it was relatively simple i just chucked it into cheeto
box gave it some pretty default supports added a few extra supports and gave those supports some
supports after about three and a half hours later i was greeted with a pretty decent looking part
once i did my entire resin working workflow i had this lovely little cured part right here now
the moment of truth does it fit well first time around it didn't quite fit i realized the main
problem here was all to do with my original photogrammetry that i didn't get inside of
one little nook and cranny so that meant that i had to just file away just a teeny tiny little
bit because it was that little bit right there that was stopping the entire thing fitting in
perfectly well from this point you can see that it looks pretty awful so let's go and do some wet
sanding to get this looking as transparent as possible now this is quite a long process and
for me it took around 50 minutes now i only have about 7000 grit so i can't get this to absolutely
perfectly transparent for that you need about 12 000 or even higher than that which is pretty
crazy what i did do is gave it a polish with some jewelers polish and then from there we get
this lovely result right here i'm sure we can all agree that it's starting to look pretty darn good
but now it's time to stick this in place i ended up going with some fast curing epoxy and in the
next shot you might think that it's starting to look even better that's because i did some extra
polishing with this little fluffy thing actually sticking this in place was pretty straightforward
i just had to make sure that i had everything ready a little timer as soon as i started mixing
and then i put on the epoxy pretty thick because i wanted to cover up any air gaps that might
be there now i only had one chance to put this part in place and thankfully it went off without
a hitch all i had to do was hold it in place for five minutes and one hour later i get to test it
enough for all that dramatic nonsense let's go ahead and test this out i honestly have
no idea what's about to happen i hope that it's gonna work i'm pretty sure it's gonna work
but if it does work just excuse me i haven't played the didgeridoo in maybe 10 years
so bear with me but let's see does it work
yay anyway i would call that a success i am so amazed that this works i'm absolutely astonished
at the precision of photogrammetry i would have never have guessed that photogrammetry with a
little guide lets you get that precise of fitting that is incredible and i love it so much a huge
thank you to my patrons you guys are absolutely awesome and it's been great fun going along
with the ride of this one because i did a whole bunch of sharing of this project over on patreon
and if you're enjoying what i'm making here you think i'm worthy of your support i would love
to see you there too thanks for watching keep making and let the quest continue