okay YouTube I think I've got this figured out so I designed some little standoffs here for the
tube so these are 3d printed parts so I've just made a cylinder 30 millimeter diameter with a 30
millimeter half circle taken out of the top put a hole in the middle just to save on filament
and then it's about one inch or 25 millimeters high at the points which puts this end about 10
millimeters high at the bottom so what I did was try to make the the seam on the tube equal to the
shade here of course I've got the tube upside down it's just easier the test fit and these are just
glued in so I kind of spaced them out roughly 1/3 of the way around and I just put the glue
on the backside of the standoffs and then set the tube down over it to get them to line up and left
them with a little bit of weight on for a while for the glue to set and then I tried to get it
roughly centered in the opening there and I spaced the standoffs out so that these vent holes I don't
think will be covered yeah because I've got one here so there's one there this one is right over
here on the side so I'm right there and then I think this one is just on the side of that vent
so I tried to stay away from these ventilation holes and then speaking of ventilation what I
did was drill about seven little holes here on both sides of the switch just to let heat come
up out of here and then I put the driver down here I took it out of the little plastic case that it
came in and I just glued the two capacitors so this is your output capacitor and then on the
other end is the input capacitor those were a little bit higher than the rest of the circuits
figure that way it'll get adequate cooling and and I can keep all the connectors down here so
I've got to feed the wires back in here and then get it hooked up to the switch so yeah then I'll
put the connector or the wire harness on the light right about there a little bit of wire
management once I put this together but that way I can connect those up and then the final thing
I just figured out was how to hold the tube in there I was initially thinking I would use some
light adhesive and then I thought it might try some velcro on here put a piece of velcro in
each of these standoffs but I think I can get by with a little metal tab and so this is where
the magnifying lens goes and it's held in with these clips so I've got my little metal tab and
the screw so again the lens is held down here with these little fingers three places around
there I'll just drop the tube in there but the idea is I can just fold these three tabs over
so this should hold the tube in there pretty good I can just spend these three tabs over
if I ever need to replace this or take it out I can just bend those tabs back there's a pretty
heavy-duty lens it's solid glass probably a good 3/4 inch thick 20 millimeters or so it's it's a
substantial lens yeah you got to definitely put it in first okay I think that's gonna work just
put those in there and I still have to take the tube out so I can get the hardware back
in here get all the wiring done on the switch yeah I can just bend those tabs out of the way
okay and that picture was the wiring in there showing you the switch and everything really
tight in there trying to get everything installed because like I say the the wires are on the top
and then the the hardware is on the bottom and then when you put the tube in you can't
see anything it it's all tucked in there but I think this works really nice now and Wow yeah
that's a nice light let's see I do get a little bit of light coming up through these holes oh
it's coming off of the inside of the reflector yeah the switch is still a little flaky there's
a couple of positions that one works that one doesn't but at least I can turn it off now if
I want to usually what I do is I just leave this on because it's a nice light in itself and then
I just turned the whole 12-volt system on or off and now we've got a decent amount of light and I
like this color better to its natural white I think the other LEDs I had were cool white so
they were really bluish color and I like this a lot better matches the other lights I have
in the rooms that way it won't look outta place one of the problems I had before with the other
LEDs they were so light that the balance on this was off you would put the lamp down and it would
rise back up because it wasn't heavy enough but now I've got about the same weight as the
old fluorescent tube and it stays where you put it so that's another benefited wow that's nice
yeah so now I can get back to work on my battery modules because I find this magnifying work light
makes these really easy to solder my fuse wire is really really really small for soldering this
size you really need a magnifier to see what you're doing because it's so tiny it's almost
invisible because this is 30 AWG wire and it's so small that you can't see what you're doing I
need to get this fixed so I could work on these because I'm going to be building a lot of these
without light and magnification it's really hard to do this because you've got to run individual
wires from each pair of cells up to the busbar so there's 10 fused wires and then you flip it
over and then you run the 10 other wires down here these are larger gauge I think I use 18
gauge on the bottom right no flicker and no buzzing so that's that's good in my book so
anyway yeah I'll put links to the parts that I used here in the video description you can
check those out no affiliation just I found a good supplier that has some decent parts I also
got some other lights for my 4runner and I'll be doing video on those so stay tuned for that they
had a couple of really neat cargo lamp solutions that I want to put in the truck for camping but
this one was for the workbench in my magnified work light so kept at 12 volts if you have any
questions about that post up in the comment section below and as always thanks for watching