Hello, John Talley here with boats.net. Today I’m going to walk you through the process to
replace the output seals on our 2003 Yamaha T60 outboard. Not that tough to do, let's
step over and look at the parts that I’m going to need and then we'll dive into this project.
We have our two output seals, but to that I added the o-ring that goes around the bearing
carrier because chances are it's probably going to need to be replaced as well.
Well now that we've got our parts lined up, let's roll this out of the way,
and get to that lower unit, and get these replaced.
Let's get the vent or fill level pulled first.
I'm going to make it easier for it to drain out. There we go.
Also want to be looking for your little washer here. Make sure it comes out with the bolt.
This is when you want to pay attention to whatever fluids coming out of here. Because if it looks
like a gray milkshake, that means you've got water intrusion and you need to do something about your
seals because either your input or more likely your output shaft seals are leaking. In fact,
this one had been changed recently. That looks like new fluid coming out of it.
Okay, so while that's draining we can go ahead and start to remove the, the output shaft carrier.
Get all of these out. Now let's reach in,
and there is a washer with a couple of different tabs.
And it looks like there's just one that I need to bend back right at the bottom.
Now we're going to be using a Yamaha retaining ring removal tool.
Let's put a little bit more authority on it.
There you go. So far so good. All right guys, we're going to be using a puller
from Marine Tech. They make some really robust tools and it should make easy work of pulling this
assembly. And I can tell you that it looks like this has been a freshwater boat because I’m not
seeing the usual telltale signs from saltwater and the effects, and if you live in the on the coastal
area you know exactly what I’m talking about. So let's reach in there,
grab it with those two arms, and then we'll get it pulled out.
Now if yours has been in salt water, at this point, tilt the drive down. Matter of fact,
I'm going to do that anyway because we don't want anything going back inside of the drive.
Because typically you're going to find that there's a lot of corrosion and whatnot around
the housing, and we don't want it falling into the gear case itself.
All right when you remove this, there's a little pin right here that you need to keep
up with because it keeps it from rotating when we go to reinstall it inside of the housing.
Bearings feel good so this is going to be an easy one.
Just replace that larger O-ring back here, and then our two seals
at the output, then all we have to do is put it back together.
There's one. When you're doing this don't push the screwdriver
too hard into the housing, otherwise you're going to scratch it and then it's going to leak.
There we go. Piece of cake. Get our O-ring off.
Let's just reverse engines with new seals and O-rings.
Since we're actually driving against
this bearing, we need to protect it. So we're going to use just a piece of wood, our towel,
and that should do it. All right, the trick here is to
pick a driver that just barely fits to the inside of that-- and that's going to be really close.
I think that'll work. Yep.
Now we just want to drive it ‘till it bottoms out.
That should be it.
Now we'll just drive the other one down on top of it.
I think that's it. What we're going to do now is pack some grease in
between these two seals and then put a light coat on the O-ring just so it's easier to assemble.
All right, when we're doing this, remember to keep this little keyway down at the bottom
so we don't have to rotate it quite as much.
It takes a little bit of persuasion to get the O-ring to seat in there.
But do use a soft blow hammer like I’m doing
so you don't want to scar up—especially the splines-- on your output shaft.
So we've got it rotated around, let's go ahead and get our little square pin in place.
All right, she’s in. Let’s get our lock washer.
So you want to make sure that both these threads are cleaned up and then put a
little bit of grease on the threads as you're installing it. If you sense any resistance as
you're bringing it down before it bottoms out, stop. Bring it back out, take another look,
make sure there's no foreign material on the threads, and then try again.
Let's put 76 foot-pounds on that. Bring our tab back down.
All right guys, that's going to wrap this one up. All I need to do now is just
remount it to the power head, and listen,
if you need help doing that, why don't you check the playlist for this particular unit
and I can walk you through that process. Well guys, if you need any parts for your boat,
why don't you come see us at boats.net and we can get you taken care of.
Have any questions or comments? Leave them in the section below and I’ll do my best to answer them.
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