G'day guys, Keithy here thanks for joining me. We're going to do some more work on the
P38. What I've done recently I've gone through a couple of the videos that I've
done and one in particular sort of caught my eye was the EAS bypass system
video that I did. The link is up there somewhere no doubt. I thought I'd do that
again and I'd do it more clearly and I'd be more specific on that with a better
camera and hopefully we can we can make it a little bit better bit more visually
appealing so you guys can get a better idea of what it's all about.
Let's go and have a look. Alrighty so here she is in all her glory, I haven't driven
this thing in about six weeks believe it or not, so it's time to come out.
Alrighty the EAS system is in there guys and what
you can see is a whole heap of action down here. Then there's a bit more
action going on up here as well. Let me explain exactly how this bypass system
works if you've got no idea about it or if you're new to P38-ing and you're
looking to do something similar yourself. So what you see here is four airlines *if
it'll focus which it will hopefully there we go*, four airlines right here that
are in this loom. They're from the valve block to the Air Springs. Normally what
would happen is they would come straight out and go straight to the Air Springs
through those little lines that are just down under here where those elbows are.
But that's not the case in mine because I go touring a lot off-road in remote
places - no phone service, nobody around, no parts, no fuel, no anything available so
I've had to be self-sufficient if something goes wrong. Thankfully I
haven't had to use it but it's there if I need to. So what we've got here four Air
Spring lines come out of the valve block in here into this loom here.
Now this loom continues around - you can see it there, up over the airbox intake
from my snorkel, that blue one is from the compressor at the valve block, now my
air spring loom comes down to here where I have a series of ball valves.
I've got four ball valves there there's only two that you can clearly see but there's
another two under there as well. And then they go into a tee up here so each of these
air spring lines goes into a tee. What that means is air can go into this
little manifold here this aluminium manifold and then from there this line
here which is loomed up again goes straight to these elbows and then down
to the air springs. Why have I done that? So I've done that so that if I have a
problem be it mechanical or electrical with the
EAS system, I can actually turn these valves off - pretty simple just a little
ball valve, turn it off, done, and that stops any air any movement any activity
whatsoever coming from that valve block at all to the air springs, so when these
are off you can use these to adjust your suspension heights and that takes it
directly to the air springs from here. I've explained it before but I'm going
to explain it again these outer ones, they are for the rear springs, this is how
I've set it up. These two here they're for the front springs, and this
one here is for the air tank the blue line
I made it different purposely and as you can see there's an air pressure gauge
there so I can see what pressure is in my air tank right now which is about 140
psi doing very good. So say you're out bush, you popped an air
spring for example, and you're on a really bad spot where you can't jack the
car up, but you don't want the EAS to go into fault and drop the car on the bump
stops, you're happy to have a little bit of a bit of a lean maybe, just until you
can get somewhere safe to be able to repair the air spring or get out of
trouble, fill it with rags or whatever you've got to do to get out of that
situation. So what I do is "Oh, shit, I've pop my air spring!", pull up real quick,
leave a door open, rip a door open. That way the suspension is not going to try and
adjust is it? Then I would come down here to my valves and I would turn them all off,
not just one but all of them, and that would keep the car at whatever position
it is currently in. Now if I wanted to adjust it because say it did go down a
little bit or it did go into fault, then I go "okay", take my little valve caps
off here (if I can do this easily one-handed)! Bit hard, because I'm right handed my left hand doesn't function like a normal human hand! I've done them up pretty tight, haven't had to use
them for a while, I'll try another one, yeah this one here is a bit easier!
It's just in a bit of a tight spot, these old withered hands! I'll tell ya! Anyway you take these valve caps off, you
can use the normal air from an air compressor at a service station or if
you're going four-wheel driving a lot, you're likely to have some kind of
backup air compressor going on. I've got one in the back of the car if you've
seen my tour video, my ARB compressor lives behind the rear seats in the car.
And that goes through a dryer in the back all the way up this is the air line
from it, it comes into this fitting here so I can inflate the tires from a hose
that I put on there, and I can also pump up the tank, I can also pump up the air
springs from that compressor, and in an emergency that's what I'll do.
Very simple, so I'll just go through it again really quick just to explain it,
excuse me! Air comes out of the valve block into this loom with the colored
lines here, runs around, up and over, into ball valves, four of them, one for each air
spring. This blue line comes from the tank the air tank, you can see here I've
put it into a tee, so I don't need to isolate that from the tank at all, I've
never found a need for that so I've run the blue line up along here with it as
well, there's no valve on that, no need for a valve. Air springs from valve block
around into ball valves, into tees, one line goes into the little manifold here
itself, the other line goes straight down to here where I have stainless steel
elbow push fittings, and they go off to the air springs as they normally would
have in a previous life. Why have I used stainless steel on those fittings guys? Okay, so I
previously had plastic fittings for the the push fittings and what happens is
this engine bay they get really hot, very very hot, and when it gets very hot those
push fittings they tend to melt. Not so much melt but the the guts of
them comes out and then *INSERT WEIRD AIR NOISE MADE BY KEITHY* you lose an air spring. So this happened on the trip
recently for me, I had down here on this front spring you can see I've
still got a plastic one there, so that's a plastic joiner I've got on for the
front right air spring, I was on a trip that was very slow and hot and what
happened is that fitting there got that hot that it actually, the guts of it
fell out and I lost this front right air spring and I thought oh shit I've popped
an air bag when I hadn't actually popped a bag, thank Christ, so luckily I kept a
few of these as spares, and I'll change that our for a stainless steel one soon,
but that enabled me to get out of trouble and finish the trip off with no
dramas, it was very very good. If you're looking to do this what will you need?
You'll need a whole heap of 6mm airline, that's 6mm all of that
airline. I've used conjute here just to keep them all together,
you don't have to do that but I think keeping everything neat and tidy is good,
plus that protects the airlines from rubbing on anything that may be in the
engine bay. So get yourself some 6mm airline, you will need a couple of meters
if you're doing all four springs like I have. A couple of tees, ideally if you can
get these tees in stainless steel, please do that, they don't like the heat.
You'll need four ball valves, and push fittings on them as well, you'll need a
block of aluminium you could probably do this at home without even needing to get
it custom-made. So a block of aluminium, drill some holes, tap the thread, put some
Schrader valves in, they're all Schrader valves, and you can put a
pressure gauge on the one for the tank if you wish - it's what I've done so I can
see how the tank is doing, and that is it so you have four tees five tees if you
want to add the tank line in which is tee'd down here at the valve block in my
case. You can use elbows or you can use straight fittings there. I've used elbows
because of the angle that these lines come into the valve block. Stainless steel
elbows pretty, easy and I hope you guys have a shot at it don't be afraid to do
it, it'll get you out of trouble if you've got a problem you can use this.
I hope I've helped somebody out, thanks for watching, don't forget to
subscribe, hit the like button guys and I'll tell you what I'll do, up here that's a link to
the 2-inch suspension lift video that I did not long ago, well worth watching if
you're into off-roading with your P38 - definitely take a look at, that and I've
got plenty more coming up too guys, I've got some exciting stuff to do with fuel
your consumption and weight etc etc, so very interesting videos coming up stay tuned
guys thanks for watching keep it real and stay shiny side up!