-Hey, everyone. This is Rob from Inyo Pools.
Today, we are going to show you how to place the motor
on a Sta-Rite Dura-Glas pump.
Let's get started.
First thing you want to do is make sure the power's turned off with the breaker.
Let me go ahead and remove the bonding wire
from the bonding lug on the motor.
Next, we'll move the screws that secure the back cap to the motor.
Next, we're going to remove the lines that come in through the conduit adapter.
There's a single-speed that has three lines.
It's got the red and black, which are hot and the green ground.
You're going to remove those.
Now, we're going to separate the motor half from the front half.
We'll just undo this on.
Then, we're going to listen and remove the screws from the diffuser.
In order to remove this impeller, you're going to have to stabilize
the motor from the back of the shaft.
Okay. Unless these motors, you can either stabilize shaft
with a flat-head screwdriver or 7/16 wrench.
Basically, you'll hold it still,
and then while you stabilize it from the back,
you'll spin the impeller off counterclockwise.
If you're having a hard time, you may want to use a strap wrench
to help get that impeller off.
All right, then we're going to use a 9/16 socket to remove these bolts.
1, 2, 3, 4.
Now, you can pull the plate off the front of the motor.
Motor off the base, save that.
We'll go ahead and remove the conduit adapter.
We'll save that.
At this point, you can dispose of the old motor.
One quick note here, you may have noticed
that there's two options for seal kits for the Dura-Glas pump.
One is a Go-Kit 6 and one's a Go-Kit 54.
The Go-Kit 54 is everything manufactured at 1998 and after.
The Go-Kit 6 is before 1998.
What the difference is,
since 1998, they removed the copper cone
from the seal plate.
It requires a little bit bigger shaft seal.
Pre-1998, it had a copper cone that was placed in the seal plate
in the smaller shaft seal.
What you can do is with either version, you can get the Go-Kit 54,
and if you have the older type, you just pop out the copper cone
and you can use the shaft seal from the Go-Kit 54.
We're going to remove this white ceramic seal
from the sealed plate.
Just take a flat head.
I get that out.
Make sure you get the rubber, hard out as well.
Sometimes you get stuck in there.
All right, then you're going to take the new shaft seal
with the white ceramic facing out.
Put that in there,
use a clean cloth,
and you want to get in there as flush as possible.
Check it from the backside,
make sure it's flush.
All right, get the motor back on the base there.
The seal plate back on, then you'll get your bolt.
There's one thing to remember with the bolts.
If you notice, there's two longer ones and two shorter ones.
The longer ones,
go through the base and then into the seal plate
and the shorter ones, go up top.
If, for some reason, you put the long one up here,
it's going to go through the seal plate when you tighten it.
You don't want to do that, they have to go at the bottom,
the longer ones.
If you don't want to tighten one bolt all the way through,
you can rotate them, tighten them evenly.
Then, you'll take the spring portion of the shaft seal
and you want to make sure you get this side right.
There's a smooth side and there side with rubber insert and metal.
The smooth side's going to touch the white ceramic.
That metal and rubber side's going to be facing out
towards where the impeller will be.
You just slip down on the shaft.
All right, then you're going to loosen up these screws
so you can access the shaft there.
I'm using a quarter-inch socket where you can use a socket driver.
Before you can tighten the impeller, you're going to stabilize the back
of the shaft.
To do that, we're going to use the 7/16 wrench.
You slide it in from the top here.
If you spin
the impeller, it'll lock into place and you'll feel it.
When you turn the shaft, it'll lock into place.
While we stabilize the back, spin the impeller on clockwise,
and you don't need to over-tighten it just enough to where it's firm
and it's moving that shaft in the back.
I was moving the wrench in the back.
All right, then we're going to put the diffuser back in place,
start to connect the the screws here.
All right, the new kit comes with the diffuser over ring
so we'll remove the old one.
It comes with the lubricant and you'll just put enough on
to make it shiny.
This will be the new housing gasket housing o-ring
and you'll put some lubricant on there and then put it in this track.
All right, so I've got the clamp wrapped around.
Now, we'll get the knob and get that started.
As you're tightening it, what you can do is just tap
the metal clamp of the rubber mallet to help it sit in place.
Then, you can go ahead and reinstall the conduit adapter back in there.
At this point,
ready to wire it up.
Every motor's going to have a wiring diagram on the motor label.
This motor's pretty simple.
See this dial, it's set for 230.
If, for some reason, you're running it on 115 volt,
you would just turn this dial up to 115 volt
so the little openings over 115.
I've got the green ground line going here.
I've got one hotline going to L2 and one going to L1.
It doesn't matter which way they go, just as long
as one's on one and one's on the other.
We've got the new motor installed.
If you have any questions on replacing a Dura-Glas motor
anything pool spot related, visits over inyopools.com.
Thanks for watching.