Hey, guys. I've got Lynn here from Dynamite Diesel today. And what he's going to do is
he's going to show us how to install nozzles on an injector, correct way to do it. And
the injector that we're using today is going to be a 6.7 Dodge injector. So going to go
through all of that. But I really want to start out with... I think one of the main
questions that we get here at Thoroughbred all the time is, "Should I do nozzles or should
I do full injectors?" And I know there's a lot that goes into that and I want to let
you talk on that.
Yeah. So, properly, if you've got a very low mileage truck, doing a set of nozzles works
out great. We don't sell the really big nozzles without asking, or mandating really, that
you send in your injector bodies. We install the nozzles on your bodies when we recalibrate
them. When you're going to change flow by that much, we want to be really sure that
you're not going to hurt the motor. So we do sell the smaller nozzles, like this set
that I brought out. Bear in mind, I jumped on an airplane, came out here, brought the
bare minimum tools. I'm going to borrow your torque wrench, your 15 millimeter socket.
I've got nozzles. Inside the nozzles comes this little packet of grease and the six new
copper washers to seal the injector as you go back in the motor with it.
And the grease is there to glue that copper onto the injector body so when you're dropping
it down in the motor it doesn't fall off, you don't lose it. And now, of course, on
the initial startup, that grease is going to melt away, but the copper is already in
the spot, you crushed it, we're good.
And then, also brought me a toothpick. Toothpick is really cool. It's a great tool. You may
have one of these in your kitchen cabinet you didn't know was a tool, but here. So inside
this injector, which I've already cracked this nozzle nut free, there is a little calibration
shim. And that calibration shim is... We've got them in about 100 different thicknesses.
It's critical that that calibration shim, which is called DNH, stays with that injector.
So, I'm going to do this just right over the top because I don't want to lose anything
here. Now, that calibration shim, hopefully the camera can see that, but there's my sleeve,
old nozzle, here's my calibration shim. And here's where my tool comes in. The reason
this toothpick works out nice because it's non-magnetic and that shim is so dang small
and so light, if you try and use a regular pick, it creates magnetism to it and it follows
you around. So I like these little toothpicks just for that reason.
And you don't want it magnetized in the assembly.
Correct. So, now that I've got the injector torn apart, this sleeve goes back into the
injector. Just for giggles, just to show everybody what we're dealing with here, just in case
they actually have a problem. You don't need to do this, every single time change a nozzle,
but I'm going to show everybody what we're dealing with. We've got a calibration shim.
It really controls a pilot and idle that sets preload on this spring. So at the lower throttle
settings, this one is responsible for how quickly the injector can open and, like I
say, just the throttle settings.
Yeah.
So, spring, DNH sleeve. Now my DNH shim, again, these come in 100 different thicknesses. It
stays with this body unless you send in your injectors. And if you send your injectors
in, we may move these things around and calibrate it proper. But since we don't have that ability
here at the shop or at home, we're just going to make sure that it goes back in the exact
same injector it came from. I'm going to make sure that DNH lays in there nice and flat.
Take out one of my brand new nozzles. Like I say, these nozzles are made per set. We're
going to measure these in liters of air per minute and we will tell you what the percentage
over is, what the expected horsepower output is, and you just buy them based off that.
Show them the feed hole in the nozzle there and how that is.
So, actually there's a couple of things we probably should talk about. This needle valve
that I'm trying to get out of here, the needle valve is machined and lapped to that nozzle.
This is specific to... These two parts are married together forever. This is measured
within five microns of an inch and it fits and it's lapped to that exact nozzle. If you
have a bag of these things that have been miscellaneously put into a bag and now they're
all slopped around, don't try and run that set. It's not going to work out right. Please
send those in. We can try and do that for you. But, yeah.
So the feed hole where fluid goes into is right there. As the needle valve goes to lift,
so that would be a massive amount of lift. This lift is actually dictated by that little
DNA shim. So the thinner the shim, the more lift we're going to get. And the more lift
we get, the more fluid can fall underneath the needle valve as it goes and is cycling
through. So, back to closure. Make sure that your surface, all of this needs to be dead
clean, absolute spotlessly clean. Nozzle back on too.
And does that feed hole have to line up to any particular feed hole on the body.
Good question. So the alignment dowels that were there, those aren't exactly 180 degrees
opposite. So this thing can only be properly assembled in one direction. So if you try
and switch to 180 off, the nozzle's going to sit just offset and nothing's going to
line up.
Okay.
So, nozzle nut. Now guys, if you're doing this at home, please be careful and make sure
you're doing this in a very clean environment. The tool that we've got here in this vice,
we send these out with injector nozzles so that way anybody with any vice at home can
actually do this job. The V-shape that's cut into this tool is an indicator that this is
for a 6.7 liter body and not a 5.9 liter body. I saw that you had one laying here. It does
not have that V-shape cut in it. This, if you notice, this is a little bit narrower
right here than it is right here.
Yeah.
And the 5.9 body is a little bit thinner right there. So, 5.9 tool will not work for a 6.7.
Won't fit. So that's why we've got a couple of different looking tools. Now that we've
got everything assembled, handy dandy torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench,
please don't do this job. This doesn't need to be good and tight, this needs to be 40
pound feet. And I hate to say you shouldn't be doing this, but if you don't have a torque
wrench, you really shouldn't be doing this.
Yeah. I was going to say, we don't get to use our German torque specs here.
No, we can't use Good-N-Tight. So, next on the hit would be my handy dandy bag of grease
and my copper washers.
And again, the grease is just to hold the copper on.
That is all. So, copper on too. Now, back of the shop I've got a tool that would help
me and it would install this washer quite nice and easy. But if I'm careful, I can do
it just like this, by pressing only on the copper part and not the nozzle. And there
we go, we're coming on. So you can see that copper washer has got a lot of friction, and
that's to make sure that it does not. We're about halfway there so far. Got nozzle install,
done, done. I'm going to pull this copper washer back off and take my core injector
body and throw the core nozzle back on it.
That's it.
But instructional video on how to do your nozzle at home.
That's it.
All right.
Thanks for watching, guys.