Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com and boy am I deep in the middle of a project
today.
This is our next installment rebuilding the motor on our 2012 Polaris RZR900 XP.
And it really needed a lot of help, so here's what we're up against today.
We've got the block.
This is the centerpiece of it all.
We've got all these other parts that came off of it.
Some we're going to be able to use, some we are not.
On this table, we have an enormous amount of parts.
Brand new, just arrived, and ready to be used if need be.
Well, we're going to figure out which ones we need and which ones we don't.
So let me go grab a couple of toolboxes and we'll get started.
Alright guys, step number one in all of this.
We need to get all of our bearings sized correctly.
So there's a chart inside of the Polaris manual.
So here's how this works: we're going to start off sizing our mains first, but we need to
get some information off our block and off our crankshaft.
On our block on the end you're going to have six numbers, so you need to write those down.
And on the crankshaft, because we're putting in a new one, they're going to be stamped
right here.
Now this is going to be a set of letters, write this down as well.
Chances are it isn't going to be just like mine because each one of these are unique.
that's why Polaris goes through the pain of actually sizing all of this for us.
Using a chart we can determine which bearing goes in.
Alright, with that information, my particular crankshaft, just on the mains, is going to
be G-B-G-G.
Alright, off the block it's all threes.
So, using our chart for the main bearings, a G3 is going to be a yellow.
A B3 is going to be green.
Looking at your bearings, this is going to be yellow, you're going to have a green one
here, and then two more yellows on the end.
That will complete just the main bearings.
Alright next, we need to size the connector rods.
Our old one, the one we're going to reuse, has a number on the end cap which is a three.Our
new one has a two.
So, going to the connecting rod chart, a B2 is going to be a blue bearing.
A B3 is going to be a green bearing.
Before we actually lay the crankshaft in, I want to go ahead and prepare the pistons
connector rods, and as you found out before it was the connector rod that actually caused
all of this to go so horribly wrong.
So what we need to do is go ahead and pull it out of the bore and get this one replaced.
Looking at the piston, it's practically perfect.
you can tell that was brand new when whomever built this thing and did this part wrong.
So, let's get that cirlip out of there, get the old connector rod off, and then get it
put back together.
Make sure you put it back in the same orientation.
Each one has a serial number on the end of it, just make sure that goes back the same
way it came off.
Put this in and grab that edge and pop it right out.
Alright, we've got a new circlip here.
The wrist pin looks good, I mean, just no wear on that at all so we're just going to
reuse it.
A little dab of oil...
Delta T is there, serial number is facing me, that's the way the other one came off.
Just put the clip right here.
You do not want that edge or the end of it to go inside that channel, but what you do
want to do is use that channel to ride it over.
Once you get that other edge in, then you can use just a regular screwdriver to push
down the back edge and get it to snap in.
Alright, let's get these rings back in the right orientation.
They basically just alternate back and forth going fore and aft on the piston as far as
the rings go.
Alright the piston still has a little bit of oil on it.
You want that delta T to end up pointing to the exhaust side, so that's going to be over
here.
So it needs to go in like this.
Alright.
Let's go ahead and get this end cap out of the way.
Go ahead and get our base gasket in place.
Before we put the pistons and the cylinders over there, we need to get one half of the
bearing on each one, and hopefully you've been keeping this organized.
I tend to lay things out on the table to where they swing over to where they should go.
Alright, just a little dab of oil in here.
Let's go ahead and set it on the block.
What we're going to do is just use this plate.
What we're going to do is put it in the center and we're going to use a couple of head bolts
just with some sockets as extensions and we're just going to do it hand-tight to hold it
all in place so we can rotate the engine upside down to get the crankshaft in.
And now let's rotate it around.
Alright, so this is going to be surfaces 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.
So we want to go ahead and get the bearings in for 1, 3, 5, and six.
That's going to be our mains.
Yellow, green, yellow, yellow.
Alright, right there you can see just a little bit of yellow, so that's what we want.
This one should be green.
And two more yellows.
Alright next, I'm going to go ahead and dab each one of those bearings with a little bit
of oil.
Alright, before we put our crank in, we need to go ahead and put this oil diverter in.
It just slides in right here.
Now, let's go ahead and get our chains on the crankshaft as well as our output seal.
Alright.
That looks like it.
Next we're going to go ahead and get the end caps on.
Make sure that your serial numbers line up with the right one.
This one is actually a connecting rod that we're reusing, but we are using new connector
rod bolts.
A little bit of oil.
Going to be a little bit tricky to get the other one because it's kind of buried down
there.
And of course it came with new bolts.
At this point, we're going to go ahead and torque down the connecting rod bolts and then
we'll address getting the counter balance in there.
Alright, this is actually a two-stage setup.
First stage using a torque wrench take it to 13 foot pounds.
Now we want to take it another 105 degrees.
When it's pointing in this direction it's going to be 90- and then we go another 15,
so about right here where this mark is.
So that's where we want to end up.
I know they make dial indicators for this type of procedure, I just don't happen to
have one with me right now.
That should be it about right there.
It's plus or minus three degrees so that gives you a pretty good window to at least get it
in there.
Let's see if we can rotate the other one up and do the same thing.
Let's go ahead and get our bearings in, we're using the same ones that came out of it.
Go ahead and dab a little oil in there so it isn't starving on startup.
Alright, let's get that counterbalance shaft in there.
The alignment dot is actually right here, and that's going to line up with our counterbalance
which is right there.
So those are the two points we're going to want to line up looking through here.
There she goes.
Alright, and they're still lined up, so that's where it needs to be.
Alright next, we needs to go ahead and get our bearings in on the bottom half of our
crankcase, and I've got them laid out here in the same orientation as I put those other
ones on.
Going here, here, here, and here, those four should be yellow green yellow yellow.
And then we've got the two originals that came out of the counterbalance and they go
here and here.
Alright guys, what we need to do next is apply the sealant path to the upper cover.
As you can see in the drawing it's got a very specific path that it needs to follow.
You want to be very careful not to get any in this channel, because that's actually an
oil passageway.
And this doesn't take a lot, it just has to be a thin, consistent layer all the way around
this side and then all the way around that side.
Alright, now we just want to look around and make sure there's no big gaps anywhere.
It looks like she's seated all the way down.
Let's get those M-10 bolts in place.
And yes, they do want you to use new ones.
Alright let me show you the torque sequence on these bolts.
It's 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.
We want to torque it on the first stage to 21 foot-pounds.
For the second stage we just want to tighten each bolt in the same sequence 90 degrees.
Alright, next we need to put in the M-8 bolts.
There's only two of them, and there's just a singe stage to tighten them down and it's
26 foot-pounds.
Now you've got one lone bolt over here and it's only set to 106 inch-pounds.
Let's go ahead and rotate the engine back up and get those upper bolts in.
What I'm going to do is just go ahead and put them in and bottom them out, you know
just do them just snug and then we'll torque them.
We're going to start over here with number 12 and take it to 26 foot pounds.
Next is number 13.
26 foot-pounds as well.
Now the rest of them, the little 8mm head bolts, that's only like 89 inch pounds.
If you don't have a torque wrench when you're doing these smaller ones that'll go down that
far, you want to make sure you grab up towards the head of the ratchet and not out at the
end so you don't over-torque it.
Next let's go ahead and get our oil pump on.
Once she slides into position, now you can put those dowels in.
After that, then you just put in the three 10mm bolts.
And those if you have a good enough torque wrench are set to 89 inch-pounds.
Alright with this amount of damage that this engine had, we needed to take these screens
off and make sure that we got every little last bit of metal that was ground up inside
of it.
Make sure that the O-rings are in good shape when you're putting these back in.
Then you just have these little C-clamps held in by 10mm that holds the whole thing together.
Alright guys, the next step let's go ahead and get this oil sump pan reinstalled.
I've got the surface all cleaned off and ready to go, just need to grab our gasket.
These no glue required here, if you were having to do this on the unit, you'd want to put
just a little on this surface to hold it to the bottom but since we've got gravity working
for us, we can just lay it in place.
Alright, next we're just going to hand start all these little 8mm bolts, and then of course
there is a very specific tightening sequence that we're going to need to go through.
Alright, well there's your sequence.
Let's go ahead and get them torqued down, and that is actually to 106 inch-pounds.
When you're tightening this, you do not want to put your hand on the end of the socket
because that will skew the amount of torque especially when you're dealing with something
that's so low.
Alright, now that we've gotten all of this tightened down let's go back and just recheck
one and two and make sure they've still got enough torque on them.
Yeah, we're good.
Well alright guys, that pretty much finishes up the bottom end of this engine build.
What's next?
Well, we need to go ahead and get the head set up, get those valves lapped in, get it
installed, set the timing, then get all the other pieces put on like the flywheel and
the cover box for the magneto.
So, follow us over to the next video, and I'll show you how to get it done.
And until then we just want to say thanks for watching.