Hello I'm Graham and I hope everyone's having a great day and welcome to
today's video now in this video I'm going to show you an unexploited feature
that's available in the FCAT or a tea to a camera now if you bought the camera
you may have been disappointed to find out that the maximum shutter speed even
with the mechanical shutter it's just four seconds so for a lot of photographs
that you might want to do Twilight hours everyone Scotch still silky smooth water
four seconds may not be enough for your exposures and today I want to capture
this tree with the clouds moving behind it so we get those risk cloud trails
behind it but you'd normally need shutter speeds in excess of twenty or
thirty seconds to do that now there is a mode that you can exploit in the after a
to 82 and it's in the scenery mode and it's the artistic nightscape now that
mode allows you to use the camera up to 60 seconds but to use that in daylight
you're obviously going to have to limit the amount of light coming into the
camera and that's where the use of neutral density filters comes in now in
fact here today I'm about to use nd 1000 plus nd - 2 nd 400 variable filter to
get the exposure times that I need so I'm going to show you how to achieve
that using this camera and be able to use that for your long exposures so let
me set up and try and film the back of the camera as we do this procedure well
I've got the F set 80 82 mounted on a tripod and it is essential to mounted on
a tripod for these extended shutter speeds it's rather bright on the LCD
screen at the back because these of the direction that I need to shoot the
picture so I'm gonna try and shield that with a bit of plastic to hopefully give
you some indication on the LCD screen of what I'm doing well to begin with a
mirror in the aperture priority molding to give you an idea of the exposures f/4
it's one thirteen hundredth of a second at is all 80 of got it in manual focus
so I can focus on that tree it's focusing with the new to the density
becomes quite difficult as you can't actually see the image too good so let's
first of all take that picture just to show you what a static picture looks
like announced at the two second time lock ready
so here we go here's the first picture
and that were 1300 a second at f/4 now I'm going to switch to the mode which
enables you to use this extended mode and it's in the scene mode so turning
the top control down until you get to scene and it's number 15 artistic
nightscape so here by default it sets up a shutter speed of a thirtieth of a
second at f/8 with ISO 8000 obviously that's going to be too bright for the
scene so this is why you need to use your neutral density filter now here
I've got a pack of neutral density which is the nd 1000 which is a 10 stop filter
and a new filter life just picked up from za my which is the variable nd nd -
2 nd 400 which is a one stop - allegedly eight stops of neutral density so
combination should be able to get up to 18 stocks of reduction but I'm not going
to be using anywhere near as much as that so I'm going to just screw on the
filter pack
being careful trying not to disturb the focus of the camera so I've got this
Domino set to one digit below the maximum aperture and again if I try and
shield the screen on the screen you can see that that is now given an exposure
of 30 seconds at F 5.6 so we reduce the light coming into the camera to bring it
into the range of which this particular app will be running and that is the
nightscape mode but it looks a little bit dark so what I'm not trying to do is
to change the shutter speed so I'm going to go down from 30 don't to say 20
seconds now the trick to use an aperture control is actually to use exposure
compensation so while the LCD is displaying the actual time and the
aperture if you press it the top control now to give you control of the exposure
compensation you know notice as I increase the exposure it's changing the
aperture value for me so if I go and go down to F 3.2 which is somewhere near
the sweet spot for this lens and I know take this picture you know this is still
dark on the LCD display but I like this run for 30 seconds again using that's
two second timer so that we're not going to disturb the image as the camera takes
so I'll fast-forward through the video because we're going to get the 30
seconds exposure plus the 30 seconds dark slide I'm gonna have a look at this
image on the back of the LCD to see what it looks like if it's too bright then
obviously we can reduce the exposure time of it's too dark can either change
the aperture to a wider value or we can increase the shutter time so let's just
wait for the end of the exposure
and we can look on the back of the screen put it into replay mode and that
doesn't actually look too bad it looks as though I've got a little bit of big
netting from stacking the two filter sets together we could easily crop that
out so I'm gonna just increase the exposure time slightly first of all I'm
going to crop a little bit to get rid of that big net there and I'm going to
increase the shutter speed from 30 seconds to a 40 seconds so the image
should be a little bit brighter so a game will take that shot with this aim
with a 4-2 second exposure
and again even with the camera mounted on a sturdy tripod in a win night there
is today those possibility of the camera shaking hang up we'll just destroy the
very fine detail so in these sort of conditions if you're trying to film
these stars cloud streaks then you really need a good strong tripod to
enable you to get really pin sharp pictures you know by default the camera
changes to the scenery mode but it is adjustable so you can actually change
the contrast sharpening noise reduction and saturation if you want if you change
the characteristics of the film type it uses auto white balance and there's no
way to change that but you still get control of the parameters within that
white balanced procedure so you can actually change the way that the white
balance recalls the ski scene you can make it warmer or colder or change it to
whichever color of the spectrum that you want so we're counting down now we
should be able to look at this and this scene should be a little bit brighter
it's going to the replay mode there we are
so the scene does look to be a little bit brighter no if I go into the setup
menu and we go up to the record set up on page one so the photo style is locked
into the scenery mode but there's no reason why you can't change the
parameters of that to give you either higher contrast less sharpening if you
wanted to reduce some of the artifacts that come out in JPEG but if you're
shooting raw then this doesn't particularly matter because you're going
to do that in your own processing if you wanted to increase the saturation you
can do in that photo style I'm going to go into manual focus and see if we can
just actually see where the focus point is so again we'll use the magnification
and we'll just change it over to that tree and see if we can actually pick up
the outline of the tree
so it's quite difficult to see on the screen but that looks to be in fairly
sharp focus let me just recompose to get more of the
top of the tree in person though in the frames so we're getting more of the sky
and more lost clouds going by so let's just take that shot and we'll start to
second timer again
and the game we've got our forty second exposure plus the forty second dark
slide which removes the hot pixels and other noise of pixels from the main
image so on screen now you can see the new image that we shot using their
modified scenery parameters and where we change the sharpness and noise reduction
and added a little bit more saturation but I'm going to process these using
luminar to bring up the raw file to make the process changes I mentioned the
white balance adjustment if you click white balance you can see that you don't
get the opportunity to use one of your presets but if you wanted to make this
seem warmer then you could move your cursor towards the red yellow and which
warms up the scene so if I take it almost the edge there of the yellow red
and just bring it down to to the red slightly that will give us a warm of
picture so again we'll take this one again with that forty seconds exposure
to try and capture some more of those clothes moving by in fact I'm going to
try and get a sixty second exposure so I'm going to try and reduce the aperture
by reducing the exposure value compensation so that I get a 4.5 and now
going back into the shooting menu I'm going to change the shutter speed to
give me 60 seconds so here the color of the client will be moving a little bit
more in the image we'll see what this gives us so that's the one with the
white balance shifted over towards the amber and the red giving you a slightly
warmer picture more like you would get in a cloudy situation rather than bright
sunshine so that well that's how to use the artistic night scene mode to enable
you to use long exposures even in daylight hours I hope you found that
useful if you're new viewer please do click the subscribe button and also have
a look at my photographic blog and I'll put a link to that in the video
description below you'll find lots more information on this episode 80 82 the
camera and on bridge cameras in general so until my next video thanks again for
watching as usual please do too okay and I hope to see you all in my
next one goodbye for now