Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. In this video, I'm going to go ahead and true a wheel
that we re-laced in another video, and if you need help lacing up yours,
why don't you reference that one. Watch it through, get yours put together, and then
meet me back here so we can get it trued. Well we're going to be using a truing stand from RNL.
There's a couple of different manufacturers out there, it just really depends well,
how often are you going to do this as to how nice of one you really need to get. But
the basic principle is going to be the same. You want the wheel to be able to maintain a constant
location and then have a pointing device of some type that's going to let you know if the rim is
moving one way or another or out of round. So all we need to do is get this hub mounted up and then
we can start the process. Now this particular stand has a couple of different options where
you can either put an axle up here, spin it in that location, or these two, which actually come
in and hold it by the bearings. And that's the one we're going to use. So let's bring her over.
Now you don't have to do this super tight, you just want it firm
to where it isn't moving around so you get a good read on it.
There, that should do. Now what we're looking for here is just to get a general feel
of how out of whack it is. We're looking at the side to side movement
and then the up and down as well, or the hop so to speak.
Now on a dirt bike, it isn't super critical that you get it perfect and let's face it,
this rim? It's designed to go off-road so it's not quite as precise or the tolerances aren't
as precise as let's say, on a rim that goes on a high performance street bike.
We do want to get it as close as we can to true, but more importantly we want to make sure that
we have the correct torque on all these spokes so it doesn't loosen up and then damage itself.
So let's take a quick look and just get an overall idea of what's going on with it. All right,
our hop is not terrible, so we should be able to straighten that out fairly quickly.
Our side to side it doesn't look that bad either, so I think we're going to be able
to get this one in line fairly easily. When we laced this one, we just basically got everything
close to bottoming out, just to hold it in place. But as you can see, a lot of play there. So our
starting point is to get all of these bottomed out, and we want to just barely seat them. Once
we do that, then we'll go back and take a look at it and start figuring out how to adjust it
to get it to walk in the right direction. First, let's get a reference point because we're going
to be coming back to this over and over again. There's actually two holes in the rim: one for
the bead lock and one's for the valve stem. From the looks of this one, they're both the same
so we're just going to pick one and make a mark on it. We're just going to go spoke to spoke, and
all we're trying to accomplish is just get them seated. When we're done with this process, we'll
know that we have all of them seated. When we go to spin it over, you shouldn't hear any of that
clicking of the spokes pushing against the rim because they're all going to be at least up to it.
And if one feels a little too tight, back it off and re-seat it again. We're going to come off this
last one with the mark right here. We don't hear any more clicking, so let's see where our hop is
first. We're going to put our pointer about a quarter of an inch away, take a peek at
it. Not too severe, maybe a little over an eighth of an inch. Let's find our low point.
Okay.
That's the midpoint. What we're going to do is pick four this direction and four that direction,
and just do an eighth of a turn to see if we can bring her up. Now as you're doing this,
if they start getting too tight, you may need to go on the other side and loosen up just a bit.
All right, it lifted it up a tick. Let's do it one more time.
All right, what we're looking at there is mainly just that juncture
where it's welded together. That transition didn't completely level, but overall she's shifting
maybe a sixteenth now so I think we're good to go. Next let's look at the side to side.
That's our close point right there.
And here. then she starts to pull away. What we're going to do,
since that's the shorter section and the rest of this looks uniform, we're going to pull
this direction on it. So we're only going to be working from this side once. Once again,
small increments. We're going to back up a couple of spokes
and just do quarter turns.
Where's that last mark? All right, so we just went from here to here just on that side. All right,
we made some progress but let's do that one more time, same spokes. You're doing this pretty much
by feel. One of them feels loose, then it needs to be caught up with the other ones. Like I said,
the trick is do this in small increments, otherwise you start getting things out of whack.
Putting too much tension on one or more spokes and you pretty much have to start over again. Oh yeah,
still a little bit of wobble to take out, but we're getting closer. We're gonna go through the
same procedure, see if we can pull it in a little bit closer, and then take another look at it.
So we just want to pull this section over a little bit more.
Quarter inch turn on each one. Let's see where we ended up.
That's pretty good guys.
It's got a little bit of hop to it because of that joint, but as far as our side to side,
we're on it. Now it is time to actually torque all these down, and we're going to
use a very small torque wrench to accomplish this specifically made for spokes. And this particular
kit, it's got a full range of all the different sizes that are commonly found on most rims. And
the way we're going to do this is actually in three passes. We're going to find our start point,
which we had marked here. And what we're gonna do is tighten this one, skip two,
and then go to the third. The next pass we'll move to the next one, skip two, and then tighten
it. Last pass move to the next one, skip two, and then we'll complete the process. What that
is doing is alternating back and forth as we're going all the way around. For this particular rim,
they want them to work somewhere in between two and a half and three foot pounds, and that's
around 30 inch pounds. So we're gonna set that and off we go. Just want to pay careful attention
here and don't lose where you are, so try to remain focused. There's our first one, skip two.
Take your time, do this right.
We did it right because we started there, and we're ending with this one.
That's it. Yep. Check it one more time, make sure we ended back up where we started.
Still got that little hop at the seam, but this one's good to go. All right guys, there you have
it. A little bit of a time-consuming project, but if you're around these machines long enough,
it's worth learning how to do, that way you can just handle it at your house instead of
taking it to the dealership. Well listen, if you need these parts, or tools, or anything
else for your machine, I want you come see us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of.
Have any questions or comments? Leave them in the section below and I'll do my best to answer
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