As you can see we're out on site and inside the house today and what I want to show you in this video is
The procedure for doing what I call a Pre Sheet
This happens just before you're about to
sheet your internal walls and all it is is going around and checking that all your walls are plumb and straight
and how you actually fix them if they're not
So obviously the first thing to do is make sure you also plumb so pick a length of wall
plumb one corner
now this in this case I've got a straight edge and a spirit level
But you might be lucky enough to have a spirit level that will do it in one hit
but need to go from top plate to bottom plate
making sure that the wall is straight
Then plumb the other end
okay, so in making sure that it's plumb make sure there's no bow in this stud and
Because we've got that stud up against the wall we might be able to pull it across clamp it across and
rescrew it to the wall to straighten that that stud
So once we've done the two ends the next thing to do is
To check the top and bottom plate are straight, and if the wall is short enough
or you've got a straight edge that's long enough you could do it with a straight edge
just by placing it against the against the plates
but if you don't have a straight edge, then you can use a string line and blocks, so
all you do is at one end
drive in a nail you
have three blocks of timber of the same thickness
And you pull the sting line tight across the end two blocks
and then you should be able to fit the middle block in between the string line and your plate
And of course if they touch then it's in the right spot if there's a gap
then your plate needs to come over so you can then
adjust your plate fasten it back to the floor
so do that on the bottom
do that on the top as well
Okay, so now we've got our two
end studs plumb and our top and bottom plate level
So then what we need to do is we can start going through
And just using a straight edge again
Checking that out studs are straight
so check each stud individually and
When you find one that's not straight, then we have to do something about it, so I'll go in and show you this stud
So here's our stud
You can see there's a gap here between the stud and our straight edge
And you can actually see that the line our noggins is out as well so that tells us. There's a bow
Going this way
In this stud so a couple of ways we can do it for the back of the stud
We can plane the back of the start off with electric plane and the timber framing code
Australian Timber framing code actually says that
Studs may be planed to provide the minimum size remaining
provided the minimum size remaining is not less than[the minimum design size required for example a
stud of 90mm may be planed down to 70mm depth if the minimum design depth is
Required is 70mm
So you can plane them as long as you haven't built
the frame to the absolute minimum standard that's required
so you can plane the back off the stud, but this gap here
there's two options if you're going to plane in it, then you really need to pack this
you need to pack this area what I used to use was
strips of 3mm melamine and
you just put one layer on at a time and feather it out at the ends, so
This particular bow, there's the back cutoff so find the back off there still got a gap here
so there's two strips of the melamine, and you'll see they feather off
at the top and
Similarly at the bottom so what you do is you staple them on
used to use an air staple and staple them on and then give them a touch with the electric plane
the Staples would do minimal damage to the electric plane, so that's how you feather out the ends just an electric plane
You keep building it up until you eliminate the bow
the other option is
to do what they call crippling now
Again the timber framing code says you can cripple [20%] of the common studs including those embracing walls
But the only restriction is that the studs at the size of an opening or the studs
supporting concentrated loads shall not be crippled and we can see here. It says that the maximum depth and saw cuts
half the depth or depth divided by two and we
have to cleat
the stud afterwards with a
42 x 19 x 600mm cleat
All right, it has to be fastened with 2 / 50mm nails
I'm sorry with 4 / 50mm nails
So we will go back and i will show you the process
So there's our stud you can see at the bone. It is how long the noggins, the first thing we do
pull out the noggins to give some room to work and
then about halfway in the bow, we're going to cut a
saw cut halfway through the stud on
the concave side of the stud
so you have the
the inside of the bow if you like
we can't go any more than half the depth of stud deep and
Yep, let's about it. So then we cut ourselves a wedge
And we drive the wedge into the stud and as we drive the wedge in
The stud, the saw cut will open up and will actually pull the stud back tight or back straight and to drive that back
drive the wedge in pulls that back until you get it back straight
Once you've got it straight
you can drive a nail, skew a nail down through the wedge, so it doesn't want to move and
then
Cut the wedge off and then we put on 2 cleats now in the Timber Framing Code it says 42 x 19
but it's just as easy to use the same size timber that's in the in the wall already
So it makes a little bit easier to put your noggins back in
So there you go. That's the process of straightening and
Pre Sheeting a wall
also at this stage
I would go around and check that I've had all my extra noggins in
Especially in my wet areas you want to put on noggins in to support your toilet roll holders any
handrails, towel rails any of that sort of thing you're going to have throughout out the house, blocking for your cistern
Anything you're going to screw to your walls you want to make sure there's a block
in the actual frame to take it we don't want to rely on hollow wall anchors to be holding up up fittings and fixtures
So as I said that's it. That's how we Pre Sheet a wall