How's it going everyone
I’m Landan with LMR.com!
In today’s video, we are going to be installing the underbody portion of our SVE fuel system kits!
First things first, if you would like to know a little bit more about the specifics of these
kits then I would recommend that you go watch our review video.
In that video, I discuss the kits in greater detail and talk about what each kit includes.
Now just to clear the air, we are going to be working on our three hundred dollar Fox
Body so there are other areas that we need to address and we’ll get to them as time
allows.
The fuel tank is already removed from this car so we won’t be showing that in this
video.
If you would like to see how it’s done, we have a separate video on fuel tank removal.
Also, because of the nature of these kits and everyone’s personal expectations, you
will need to source your own hose management accessories.
Going into the install, I would recommend above average mechanical ability, a good selection
of tools, and an extra set of hands wouldn’t hurt either.
To get started lay out all of your components and get familiar with everything that’s
included in the kit.
Next, use compressed air to flush out the tank, fittings, and hoses to ensure that they
are free of foreign material.
Wipe the top of the tank isopropyl alcohol or a wax and grease remover.
Peel the adhesive backing off the tank pads and install them onto the tank.
Firmly press the foam material to ensure that the adhesive makes good contact.
Remove the protective cap from the bottom of the fuel pump.
Install the provided fuel sock onto the pump and verify that it’s parallel with the bracket.
Place a seal into the groove in the fuel tank.
Fold the sock in half and carefully insert the pump assembly into the tank.
Just so you’re aware, this will be a very tight fit.
Wait until the pump is through the opening and then install the black corrugated hose.
Look through the filler neck hole and verify that the sock is inside of the sump along
with the black return hose.
Install the lock ring and tap it into place.
Remove the protective caps from the fuel pump assembly.
Lubricate the o-rings on the -6AN to AN6 o-ring port fittings with some dielectric grease.
Install both of these fittings into the “outlet” and “return” ports on the fuel pump assembly.
Finger tighten the fittings and then tighten them down with a 3/4 wrench.
Lubricate the filler neck grommet and the opening in the tank.
Install the grommet into the tank.
Do the same for the vapor seal.
Transfer the factory sending and vapor valve to the new fuel tank.
If you’re using the factory fuel pump wiring, the easiest thing to do is de-pin the factory
connector so that you can use as much of the wire as possible.
Go ahead and de-pin the connector and cut off the terminals.
Strip each wire and roll the strands together.
Slide one of the wires through the rubber boots.
Position a ring terminal and then crimp the connector.
Do the same for the other wire.
Remove the retaining nuts from the terminals.
Make note of the “plus” and “minus” on the fuel pump assembly.
This is important to wire correctly because if you don’t, the fuel will flow in the
opposite direction.
Install the black wire onto the negative 12v terminal and finger tighten the retaining
nut.
Do the same for the positive 12v terminal.
These need to be positioned between the 6 and 9 o’clock position when looking at the
fuel tank from the rear.
Fully tighten the retaining nuts and slide the rubber boots into place.
Go ahead and loosely install the 90-degree -6 AN fittings.
We’ll clock these whenever we go to install the fuel tank.
The lines that connect the filter are easy to remove, but we have a separate video on
that if you’d like to watch it.
Loosen and remove the (2) 8mm or 5/16ths screws that secure the fuel filter bracket.
Remove the fuel filter and bracket from the car.
Before you remove the factory fuel hard lines, go ahead and remove the passenger side front
wheel and the splash shield.
Within the engine bay, remove the cap from the Schrader valve and depress the stem to
relieve any fuel pressure.
Locate the flex hose and hardline fuel connections near the passenger side front frame rail.
Use a 5/8ths quick disconnect tool and separate the supply hose from the hardline.
Use a 1/2-inch quick disconnect tool and separate the return hose from the hardline.
Locate the attaching points for the factory fuel hard lines.
The rearward point had been ripped out of the spare tire well.
This is a rivet and will need to be drilled out.
Follow the lines toward the front of the car and remove the attaching screws, rivets, and/or
push pins.
Separate the metal clamps and remove them where necessary.
Remove the small screw from the hold down strap at bottom of the wheel-well opening
and remove the strap.
Our frontward-most bracket at the frame rail was missing.
Maneuver the lines around any existing component and then remove the factory hard lines from
the car.
Now it’s time to assemble the provided filter and filter bracket.
Install the provided filter into the filter bracket with the rolled end of the filter
inside of the large end on the bracket.
Position the hose clamp into place and loosely tighten.
Take one of the provided quick connect adapters and separate the two halves.
Install the short section of the fitting on the inside of the flare.
Slide the long section of the fitting over the filter and loosely tighten the two halves.
Do the same for the other side.
Position the filter assembly into place and reuse the previously removed hardware.
Remember, you can paint your old hardware to give it a fresh look.
Go ahead and place the fuel tank shield and fuel tank on a transmission jack or a combination
of floor jacks.
If you haven’t already, connect the fuel tank sending unit.
Install the shortest -6AN hose onto the outlet fitting on the fuel pump assembly.
Install the longest -6AN hose onto the return fitting on the fuel pump assembly.
To help keep track of the hoses and determine which one is which whenever they make it to
the engine bay; I’m placing a piece of tape at the end of the return hose.
Use an 11/16ths and 3/4 open-end wrench to tighten these fittings.
Before you tighten the 90-degree fittings, position the fuel tank into place so that
you can get a good idea on which direction the 90-degree fittings need to be clocked.
Generally speaking, these fittings will need to be clocked towards the passenger rear corner.
Go ahead and lower the tank back down.
Once clocked, tighten both of these fittings with the 11/16ths and 3/4 wrenches.
Install the rubber evap hose onto the valve and position this towards the outside of the
car.
I’m using a new piece of hose from our evap kit and securing it with a small zip tie.
For those of wondering, this kit is available separately.
Lift the tank into place.
Now before you fully position the tank, verify that the wiring harness will not get pinched
in between the tank and spare tire well.
Use some tape to temporarily position the harness out of the way of possible pinch points.
Lubricate the filler neck and grommet with a touch of dielectric grease.
With the filler neck loose from the bucket, install the neck into the tank.
Lift the tank until the pads make contact with the spare tire well.
Swing the tank straps around the fuel tank and the shield.
Loosely thread the nut and then do the same for the other side.
You can now fully tighten the nuts.
We used our fuel tank stud and nut kit which makes life incredibly easy when installing
the fuel tank straps so I would definitely recommend you get this.
Feed the supply and return hoses through the small bend at the frontward corner of the
tank.
Loosely thread the short supply hose onto the fuel filter.
Take the last -6AN hose and feed it over the axle.
Install it onto the other end of the filter and loosely tighten.
Pass the return hose over the axle as well.
Use some Adel clamps and secure the hoses to the factory attaching points.
At this point, you don’t have to get too crazy with hose management as we still need
to install the engine bay portion of the system.
Route the hoses in the same direction as the factory hoses.
Feed both hoses through the small opening behind the strut tower.
Reinstall the strap at the bottom of the wheel-well.
You can leave this loose until you’re ready to tighten everything down.
Cut the rubber EVAP hose to length and attach it to the hardline.
Secure this hose with a zip-tie or something else of your choice.
Reposition the filler neck support and reinstall the retaining bolt.
With all of the hoses temporarily secured, but still loose; run back over everything
and make sure it all looks good.
Tighten the hoses and fittings on the fuel filter.
You’ll want to install the engine bay portion of the fuel systems next and then come back
to dial in the hoses underneath the car.
Tighten the hoses and fittings on the fuel filter.
Alright, guys, that’s gonna do it for this stage of the fuel system.
Now depending on the setup in your Fox Mustang, you’ll want to take a look at either one
of the videos that cover the installation steps for the engine bay portions.
If you have any questions, feel free to drop us a comment.
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