Now that we have our AC power and our siren connected, we're going to land
our keypad wires.
The Destiny keypads as we said before have six
connectors.
Four are power and data, two for power, two for data.
And then they have an extra two, because the Destiny
keypads have built-in speakers.
The Honeywell keypads that we're going to be putting in, a 6160 V, and a
Tuxedo Touch WiFi are simple four wire connections.
So, we're going to take two of our connections on here.
I'm going to choose the blue and white and yellow white, and we're just going to wrap
these down.
We're not going to use that.
And we're going to run our two keypads here in parallel on our
ECP terminal, four, five, six and seven.
So, on the board here we've got ground, aux power, green and yellow, which
is power or negative power, positive power, data in, data out.
So, when you run in parallel, that's a home run from each keypad.
And we just want to make sure that when we go
back over to our keypads, that we know which wire we've connected to which
terminal.
So, once we've made our connections, we're just going to label on
a piece of paper, to make sure that we connect the right wires onto our
keypads once we get to that part.
So, for now, I'm just going to choose two colors.
We're going to go blue.
Here are our two blues.
We're going to make these the ground connection, negative power.
So, these get landed on the same screw as our siren.
Screw it down nice and tight.
good connection.
And we're going to go and choose our next color, green.
Again, the color doesn't really matter for what we're doing, since it's an existing run.
The important part will be to make sure that we're landing the proper colors
on the actual keypad, once we get to there.
So, we're going to go green, to power positive or aux
power.
Nice and tight.
We're going to go and use yellow for our...
Well, we could have been smart and used green on green and
yellow on yellow.
What we'll do is, we'll go yellow to yellow.
We already landed the green, so we can use our white and green to go with the actual
green terminal.
We've got yellow connected, and so we're left with our green
and our white.
Going to land that under green, nice and tight, and we now
made our two keypad connections, which used to be six wires.
And now for the Honeywell, we've got our simple four wire.
So, we've got our transformer, siren, two keypads connected.
These are battery charging circuits.
We're going to leave that off.
We're going to deal with power in the transformer later.
We're going to start to land all of these zone
terminals.
The VISTA 21IP comes programmed with zones one through eight
enabled.
Zone one is set up as a fire zone by default.
Two wired smoke detectors attached to this first terminal.
get an auto power reset when you disarm this system.
So, if you are going to have wired smokes, you should always use terminals
Z plus one or Z1 plus and Z1 negative.
For us, we don't have any smoke detectors tied in to this system, so we're
going to use that as a simple door or window zone.
And, like I said from before, because we've got 14
zones here and our panel is only eight zones, we're going to use what's
called "zone doubling."
You can't zone double zone one, because that's the
fire zone, but we can zone double zones two through eight to get a total of
15 zones from our base panel.
And that's what we're going to do to break out these zones.
Once we have it connected, we'll have everything landed and
we'll have two of these individual zones landed on two, three, four,
five, six, seven and eight, and we'll have a single zone on zone one.
We'll have everything wired up at that point.
We can go deal with our keypads, add in our GSM card which gets snapped in
here, go on power, and then we'll move over to start addressing the keypads
and finalizing the installation.
So, the hard part will be navigating all of this.
Likely we've got it labeled, so hopefully we can sort this out,
and it won't be too bad.
So, we're going to try to find to keep things neat, our front door.
And we do have a list of our zones from originally, so zone one is the front door.
Try to keep these wires as neat as possible.
You have zone 14 right here, working down.
Set aside zone 14.
We've got zone 13, set that one aside.
We've got the back window, this is zone four.
So some of these zones, when they're just a single loop, like if it's coming
just from one door, you would just have a two conductor wire similar
to this.
You'd have your two conductor, your black and your red.
Other zones, when it's multiple windows tied to one loop, or one zone, it will look
like this.
You'll have...let's see... so, this one is labeled back window,
zone four.
And you can see in our house we have three windows that are in
the back window zone.
So, you can see that there's...let's see, one, two, three, four actual
connections.
And they're run in series, so normally you can run them in
series out in the field, or you can take each individual home run back to
the panel, and run them in series here.
So, you get your black and your red, you've got your red going to your black.
Again, from here, you've got a red to black.
Red to black.
And then we're left with a red and a black to
land as our zone.
So, this is our entire back window loop made up of four
different individual openings out in the field.
So, that's just to demonstrate a way to do a quick series run
right at the panel.
So again, we'll set this aside for now.
That's zone four.
This one is zone
two, front window right.
There are three windows in that area, so that's, again, a three loop connection tied together.
Here, we've got a sliding door, and that's two different sliders.
that's connected.
We've got zone six, bathroom back.
This is zone ten.
This is zone seven.
I'm trying to isolate down to zone one here.
We've got zone 12, front door.
I believe we've found it.
Oh, no.
French door, zone four.
Let's see.
Here we go.
Here's our zone one.
So again, we've got simple connector, door window
sensor on our front door.
We've got a black and a red coming from the zone.
Our negative has our resistor and again, the value of the resistor on the
old [Vesany] board is not the same resistor.
So, this is the most common issue that people run into when they do a panel
swap out, is matching the resistor value.
So, a VISTA 21IP board needs a 2k resistor when you're doing normal connections
here.
Zone doubling uses a little different value.
We'll talk about it in a second.
But we're going to need for this zone one, a 2k resistor to land
it to these terminals.
So, I'm going to give you my resistors.
We'll be right back, and we can start to land all of these zones.
So, we are now going to add zone two.
We've isolated our zone two, here.
It is three separate windows in the front of
the house.
Three separate loops run in series, here at the panel.
You can see they've got the dolphin connectors which
are the connectors, which are the connectors I mentioned earlier, connecting
in series here.
And we've got our black, our red.
I've cut off the resistor, and now we're just going
to splice.
Splice our wire here to our resistor.
And this time, because this is going to be a zone doubled one, we're going to use
our zone doubling kit.
Open up our baggy here, and you can see, right on
the bag, the reference that the 3k is orange, black, red, gold, and that the
six.2k is blue, red, red, gold.
So, when you open this, there are two sets of eight resistors, and
very important to match the colors.
Keep this as a handy reminder for which one is which.
And always the low side of the zone, so again, we're zone
doubling.
We're going to use our two zone terminals for zone two, ground
and Z2, is going to be both zone two and it's also going to be zone nine.